1st solo re-string

[2toss]

Finally did my first re-string by myself after playing for a year and a half, it was a learning experience to be sure. Not sure it's a perfect job, but I have to say I think my Cordoba C7 does sound better with the new strings. I went with some D'Addario EJ 49's.........with Black Trebles. They seem to have a very clean sound, at least to me. I also have some EJ 45's which I'll probably use next time just to compare.

[creamburmese]

Congratulations! I still find restringing my classical to be a challenge - I can do a peg head in 15 minutes but it takes me more than twice as long to do the classical. This weekend I bit the bullet I tried a new type of string on my recently acquired classical - futzed around for 45 minutes arranging strings, spent another 15 minutes or so stretching them so I could play for a minute or 2 before they went out of tune, then decided I really didn't like the tone and the tension was too high for me. Then spent another 30 minutes restringing it again. Fortunately that worked as I didn't have any more strings handy. Phew! Conclusion - both sets of strings were high tension, but the Oasis Regency high tension strings were -much- stiffer than the D'Addario EJ46. As the original strings on it were Oasis and I liked them a lot, will have to try Oasis regular or medium highs next....maybe a few months down the line

[drjond56]

That first change was anxiety provoking, alright. I probably change my classical strings too often, maybe every 3-4 months. I like experimenting but now am leaning toward sets with wound 3rd (G) strings.

[Guitar1083]

when i resting my classical I pull the sting through the roller so thats there is no slack

both e's face out a,d,g,b face in, being that they stretch for ever you will get enuf winds

[Blueser100]

Timely thread. I would like to give it a try but am confused by different methods I have seen on an array of You tube vids. Can anyone link to one showing their preferred method?

[scottishrogue]

One thing I have found about restringing a nylon-string guitar is this...everybody does it different, because it works for them. I ran across one video on YouTube where the dude wound the string around the roller in the wrong direction! I developed my own "method" several years ago, and I have never seen it demonstrated on any YouTube video.

I use a combination of several different techniques, but it works for me. When I'm done, it's neat, symmetrical, and the strings hold their pitch.

Glen

[Guitar1083]

Originally Posted by scottishrogue

One thing I have found about restringing a nylon-string guitar is this...everybody does it different, because it works for them. I ran across one video on YouTube where the dude wound the string around the roller in the wrong direction! I developed my own "method" several years ago, and I have never seen it demonstrated on any YouTube video.

I use a combination of several different techniques, but it works for me. When I'm done, it's neat, symmetrical, and the strings hold their pitch.

Glen

did the guy go under and not over

[scottishrogue]

Originally Posted by Guitar1083

did the guy go under and not over

That's right. I couldn't believe what I was watching! It made me laugh!

Glen

[WaddyT]

Go here and look at the two instructions. They are the best classical stringing instructions I know. Always wind to the strength of the machine, or to the outside at the head. There's plenty of room. You only need 3 winds for stability. You'll get more on the high e, but it's small so no problems.

1 - http://schrammguitars.com/stringingmethod.html
2 - http://schrammguitars.com/tutorial.html

[Guitar1083]

Originally Posted by WaddyT

Go here and look at the two instructions. They are the best classical stringing instructions I know. Always wind to the strength of the machine, or to the outside at the head. There's plenty of room. You only need 3 winds for stability. You'll get more on the high e, but it's small so no problems.

1 - http://schrammguitars.com/stringingmethod.html
2 - http://schrammguitars.com/tutorial.html

wow why. i dont get it

[WaddyT]

If you are talking about winding to the outside, it cuts down on binding and on wear and tear on the tuning machines. This is particularly true on "less expensive" instruments in that they use very cheap tuning machines on these guitars, and the machines will last longer if wound this way. The tuning machines I put on my guitars cost me between $250 and $350 a set, for what I call standard machines, and they have inside bushings on them to reduce binding on the inside. The ones on the less expensive guitars cost $10 and don't have that, or the better bushings on the machine or the good supports for the tuning posts.

[Guitar1083]

Originally Posted by WaddyT

If you are talking about winding to the outside, it cuts down on binding and on wear and tear on the tuning machines. This is particularly true on "less expensive" instruments in that they use very cheap tuning machines on these guitars, and the machines will last longer if wound this way. The tuning machines I put on my guitars cost me between $250 and $350 a set, for what I call standard machines, and they have inside bushings on them to reduce binding on the inside. The ones on the less expensive guitars cost $10 and don't have that, or the better bushings on the machine or the good supports for the tuning posts.

this is what i do
Both e's facing out a,d,g,b face in, being that they stretch for ever you will get enuf winds

but the diagram looks like its opposite with both e's facing in, and a & b facing out, i wonder where the d & b are going.......

[Guitar1083]

Originally Posted by scottishrogue

That's right. I couldn't believe what I was watching! It made me laugh!

Glen

wow why i'm still lost do you have a video of this.
i could use a good oh' god moment slapping hand
over forehead

[WaddyT]

The best way is to wind them all to the outside. Works quite well.

[scottishrogue]

Here's a few tips on restringing. I remove all the strings and give the guitar a good cleaning, including the fingerboard. At the tie-block a single wrap is all that is necessary on the wound strings. Two or three will suffice on the trebles, as long as the tail is located at the BACK of the tie-block when you snug them up. This will keep your strings from slipping.

At the headstock, install the shortest strings first...6, 1, 5, 2, 4, 3. As WaddyT stated, wind strings from the inside out, toward the gears. Not everybody agrees, but it will save your tuning machines from unnecessary wear. There are several methods to anchor the strings. I use the "Taylor" method on the bass strings, but I don't cut to size, just bend them 90 degrees.

The trebles have a tendency to slip, so I thread the string over the roller and into the post hole from the back. Pull the string snug, then bend the string 180 degrees about 2" from the post and the loose end over the string, and threading it back through the post hole. Push the string back, so the loop is located at the front post hole, and begin winding, making sure each wind is tight up against the outside of the previous winding.

Two or three winds on the bass strings, and four or five winds on the trebles. After all strings are installed, stretch each individual string with thumb and a few fingers, all the way up and back down the string...retune to concert pitch. If the strings continue to stretch (and most will), gently repeat stretching, and retune to concert pitch. Trim all strings only after you are satisfied there is no slippage. I hope that helps.

Glen