#16
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I tape off the fingerboard and use a palm sander. Yes a palm sander. Here's a link to a blog post I did several years back that shows the process on a refret I did. This saves your fingers from getting major arthritis
http://mojoshout.com/uncategorized/r...lecaster-neck/
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Respectfully, David Shepherd Pickup Designer Mojotone Pickups NC-1 Soundhole Pickup |
#17
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Quote:
Used steel wool way back per Taylor recommendation ... what a mess that was in comparison imo |
#18
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Quote:
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#19
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After all the leveling and crowning:
1. 600 wet/dry paper on a rubber block 2. 1200 wet/dry paper on a rubber block 3. 2000 wet/dry paper on a rubber block I suppose all 3 would work fine on a palm sander as well, but you'd get an orbital scratchk pattern and I prefer the straight across scratch pattern. I do not polish to a mirror finish, as absolute smoothness causes drag. |
#20
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I follow Taylor's recommendations for my ebony fretboard:
https://www.taylorguitars.com/suppor...ng-your-guitar "Raw or Unfinished Wood The fingerboard and bridge on your Taylor are unfinished wood (most likely ebony) that has been conditioned with boiled linseed oil. Don't use any polish or wax cleaners on these areas. We use and recommend 0000 extra-fine steel wool to clean the frets and fingerboards. Mask off the soundhole to keep debris from falling inside the guitar, and simply rub the steel wool up and down the length of the fingerboard right over the tops of the frets. This will remove any grime from the fingerboard without damaging the wood and will also remove any oxidation from the frets, giving them a nice shine. Follow up with small amount of boiled linseed oil or our fretboard conditioning oil if the wood looks dry."
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Old Dog learning new tricks! Taylor 324ce Taylor Academy 10 Yamaha FGX800C Fishman Loudbox Mini |
#21
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I only mask a fretboard if its laquered or micarta.
Soapy Steel wool for cleaning, oil for the fretboard afterwards Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#22
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That's what I use too.
Works great on the wood finish too. Followed by Renaissance Polish / wax. Ron |
#23
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If you're talking about cleaning frets, we use Stewmac's fret erasers. Yellow only usually. If you're talking about after a fret dress, we go through about 12 grits of abrasive, ending with 12000 micromesh.
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Bryan |
#24
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OOOO steel wool on the frets after.
Boiled Linseed oil on the board. Maybe Micromesh sometimes. No more....no less. |
#25
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A lot of useful techniques here; my only comment is that I would avoid 'steel' wool, for the simple fact that it generates very fine iron dust that will find it's way into crevices and possibly corrode.
They do have 'bronze' wool that won't do this, if wool is your preferred method. I actually prefer very fine sandpaper or emory cloth, along with appropriate masking.
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Larrivee L-10 Custom Larrivee DV-10K Larrivee L-03 Taylor 412K ('96) Yamaha LL16-12 (SOLD) PRS 'Studio' (SOLD) Rickenbacker 660-12 (SOLD) Fender USA Deluxe Strat Fender USA Roadhouse Strat Fender MIM/USA Partscaster Fender MIM Nashville Tele Kelsey Custom Hardtail Strat Fender MIM P-Bass |
#26
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Thanks! I'm glad you like that amp. The TMB is one of my favorites!
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Respectfully, David Shepherd Pickup Designer Mojotone Pickups NC-1 Soundhole Pickup |
#27
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A very timely thread as I wish to start polishing my own frets. I have no desire to level crown or alter the frets in any way other than remove tarnish and make them feel very smooth.
I like the idea of the stewmac fret eraser but the grit only goes to 8000. Will this prove to be fine enough?
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Sobell Model 1 Sobell six string archtop Gibson ES-165 Herb Ellis Eastman John Pisano Gibson Johnny A Franklin Prairie State Collings D1A |