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#2
11-05-2018, 09:36 PM
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Many times. Mostly on Harmony H165s and H162s, but I've done others as well. It's also a routine operation when building from certain "kits". It's unlikely a "qualified luthier" would do it, as most are "qualified" for repairs, and not alterations.
I'd probably find a good local hobby builder and see if there's interest in doing it for you. BTW, there are about 50 things that can go wrong; one of the worst being you thin right down until you hit the trussrod. 
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#4
11-05-2018, 10:49 PM
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I built my first acoustic with a thicker neck because I wanted to find out how I would like it and assumed the guitar would not turn out that great anyway. When done I liked the sound of the guitar, just didn't like the neck. Took it off and thinned it out.
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Fred
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#5
11-06-2018, 12:06 AM
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Sand/sandpaper: No, uh-uh.
Spoke shaves were made for ..... shaping spokes. But would do the best job for shaping a guitar neck to near-final profile, then a curved scraper, then finish with sandpaper.
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#6
11-06-2018, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
I use a rasp to start, then a file then sandpaper Steve 
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE
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#7
11-06-2018, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
__________________
David Webber Round-Body Furch D32-LM MJ Franks Lagacy OM Rainsong H-WS1000N2T Stonebridge OM33-SR DB Stonebridge D22-SRA Tacoma Papoose Voyage Air VAD-2 1980 Fender Strat A few Partscaster Strats MIC 60s Classic Vib Strat
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#8
11-06-2018, 10:27 AM
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You don't need to take it off, just annoying to have this big box stuck to the end of it while you are working on it. As long as you hold the neck securely and you do not put undue stress on the neck-body joint then all is good. I use a ******* file to take the wood down after I used a rasp. Use a straight edge and mark some lines on either side of the center line. Then fine a flat down to the two lines. Then draw another center line and shape the sides up to it.
__________________
Fred
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#9
11-06-2018, 11:41 AM
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One should be aware of how the neck is constructed before doing the task. Some necks have a compression rod that sits as close to the back of the neck as possible, and there could be just 1/8" of wood, maybe even a little less, in that area. Probably more worrisome on a vintage-style Fender neck, where the trussrod channel is cut on am arch with the lowest point near the geometric center of the neck.
I use a dual-action trussrod that needs about .375" channel to seat. So if my fretboard is about .220" at the center, I'd probably be comfortable with a minimum of .720" at the nut for a Strat style neck - which is pretty slim by my standards - and I don't have big hands. I find a good part of the bulk sometimes likes in the amount of "shoulder" on the neck's edge. Some folks like a large shoulder for support, though with my more diminutive hand and my predisposition to wrap my thumb over, I actually prefer less shoulder and kind of a more shallow C shape. I've played a few pre-war Martins that have a more shallow V shape which I really liked in pairing with the wider fretboard. Point being it may not necessary to shave the back of a neck to effect a slimmer feel if the neck has more of a flatter D profile.
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#11
11-06-2018, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
I have had to reshape the neck on 3 Lakewood guitars which I owned ... great sounding instruments but what is it with their neck profiles ? In no case would I even have contemplated altering the actual thickness of the neck ... no need. The excess wood came off the shoulders.
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#12
11-06-2018, 01:22 PM
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Murrmac
Certainly personal preference here, but to me, the spokeshave is the perfect tool for the job because it will give a consistent thickness shaving as long as you want. A few strokes using some reference lines, and you are ready for a fine file, then sandpaper. I use the wooden bodied spokeshaves with the blade parallel with the work surface. That's why they make chocolate and vanilla Ed
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#13
11-06-2018, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
If you think about it a spokeshave, finely tuned and sharpened, will take off a precise amount of material where sanding is done to remove the tiny facets left, where a rasp will abrade the surface leaving a rough texture that has to be refined with finer rasps then rough then fine sandpaper. But it's whatever you're comfortable with. I've done both. I've rough shaped new necks with a Lancelot (and so does Mario Proulx, a fine builder of vintage style instruments in Canada.) I don't recommend others do it. Currently I hog the bulk on the bandsaw Sam Maloof style (freehand), followed by a cabinet chisel, rasps, then sandpaper - and do all that in an hour. But it's not for everyone.
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#14
11-06-2018, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
As it so happens , today I was shaping a birds-eye maple bass neck ... no way would you want to tackle that with a spokeshave.
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#15
11-06-2018, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
But yes, you should use the appropriate tool for the task at hand. Come to think of it, you could get a good spokeshave for about the same price (or even cheaper) than some good rasps. Even with birdseye or curly maple, there are ways to work it with a spokeshave.
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