#1
|
|||
|
|||
Is this repairable/worth repairing?
https://ibb.co/p0sHhLF
Crack in the neck, new guitar on a fender redondo player. What is involved with a repair and how much does it affect the playability? If I can get it cheap enough, should I? Thanks
__________________
1999 Norman B20 CW 2018 Recording King Rd-328 2003 Gibson J-100XT 2013 Gibson J-35 1957 Martin 0-15 2019 Martin DSS-17 1980 Martin D-35 |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
My question would be, why would you want it?
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
that looks clean and can be easily repaired.
If its a cheap guitar you can simply glue it back together. Because the stress is all in tension, CA glue is quite suitable for that. A good quality wood glue like Titebond-II would work as well, but is a little thicker so harder to get into the crack. remove the strings, do not mess with the wood or you can ruin the mating joint. Blow out flecks with an air car, check the joint for a perfect seal. lightly unbend and fibers that are not lying properly with a pick tool. apply glue and clamp shut. Easy fix and totally reliable.
__________________
Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
It's allot like having an old worn out car that needs repaired. At some point you have to ask the question is the money better spent on another car or repairing the old one, again. It might not cost that much to repair. Most real luthier's won't do a hack job on it. You can ask for a estimate.
__________________
Waterloo WL-S, K & K mini Waterloo WL-S Deluxe, K & K mini Iris OG, 12 fret, slot head, K & K mini Follow The Yellow Brick Road |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Yes. That is a very easy repair. I would recommend using Titebond I. It looks open enough to me to be able to work the glue in. If not then you can dilute the TB to 10% and it will flow in there nicely. Clean all the squeeze out with a wet cloth and clamp it up with cushioned cauls.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Run Away.
I'd avoid a guitar with such damage. Even though a good repair might be made, any further mishandling could cause a glue joint to fail.
I'd keep looking. JMHO, YMMV. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Just trying to get a general consensus, it’s a brand new guitar, I can likely pick it up for next to nothing, so if a repair can be made, I might try to pick it up as a beater to have around or for the daughter.
__________________
1999 Norman B20 CW 2018 Recording King Rd-328 2003 Gibson J-100XT 2013 Gibson J-35 1957 Martin 0-15 2019 Martin DSS-17 1980 Martin D-35 |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
question for OP
What's the guitar? Is the intent to glue the break in place? One trick I've seen (a luthier's watch-this on a guitar I bought to repair) was to put glue on a feeler gauge and insert the tool as deep into the crack as possible. Inject glue with a syringe, maybe. Pallet knife, too. Whatever can get the glue into the crack.
If OP can get the guitar for peanuts, I don't see a downside. Ten minutes, some glue, clamp it up and check in the morning. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
If you can get it for next to nothing what do have to lose? Next to nothing?😉😁
As already said, easy fix. Glue it, clamp it and play it
__________________
Early Ovation classical 2001 Taylor 355 2002 Taylor 308 BB 2004 Taylor 214 2011 Taylor GC4 1964 Fender Stratocaster 1965 Fender Jazz Bass Fender Twin Reverb |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
worth reparing?
Quote:
For nothing else but to give it to someone to learn how to play is well worth it. You might be giving it to the next Jimmy H. Use an artist brush and let some water flow in. Then some TiteBond original and it will help the glue to wick down deep into the crack, clamp for two or three days and viola, good as new. This is an easy simple repair and will play as if nothing was ever wrong with it. Enjoy, amigo. Ron |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
in almost all cases the glue joint will be stronger than the wood - usually the wood will break before a glue joint, unless it gets wet or hot.
__________________
Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" 000-15 / GC7 / GA3-12 / SB2-C / SB2-Cp / AVC-11MHx / AC-240 |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Titebond I and clamp, make sure it is aligned with the bridge. The other question is if there is damage in the box?
__________________
Fred |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks for the help guys. As far as I know there isn’t internal damage. I’ll definitely look, I’m not sure the crack goes all the way across both sides. Do you recommend squirting it in the crack, clamping it and wiping excess? How long does this stuff typically take to dry?
__________________
1999 Norman B20 CW 2018 Recording King Rd-328 2003 Gibson J-100XT 2013 Gibson J-35 1957 Martin 0-15 2019 Martin DSS-17 1980 Martin D-35 |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
When the crack joint is irregular and splintered, if you were to use a flat bladed tool, you will tear, break loose and distort the wood grain, causing the crack to be uneven and no longer be a clean and symmetrical mating surface. In this situation, you want to use an very old violin repair technique, which is a small, maybe 1" diameter or so, plastic suction cup to apply the glue and pressure squeeze the glue into the neck heel crack. Begin by taking the strings off. Then apply a line of glue to the crack, while applying a moderate amount of force, use the suction cup like a piston pump, and push the glue into the crack with a pumping motion. This trick works wonders. Once you have glue squeeze-out appearing around the crack, gently apply pressure to the neck to lever the crack open, slightly and closed slightly, so as to squish the glue into the joint by compressing the liquid, and then releasing the pressure. Do this a few times to evenly distribute the glue (you can't do this with CA glue, this is why it is inappropriate in this situation). Once this is done, clean up any squeeze out with a damp cloth. Then, it's time to clamp up. My advise here is to have a clamping scheme devised first, before you apply any glue; and of course have access to as many clamps, cauls, and protective pads, like pieces of leather and sheet cork as you can get your hands on. I've done a few repairs like this, so I am familiar with the process, and this is one of the easier types of repair to make, since the parts have not completely separated yet .
__________________
Leonard 1918 Gibson L-1 1928 Gibson L-4 (Blond w/Ebony Fret-board) 1930's Kalamazoo KG-32 1930's Gretsch F-50 1934 Gibson L-7 1934 Gibson L-50 (KG-11/14 Body Shape) 1935 Gibson L-50 (Flat-back) 1935 Gibson L-30 (Flat-back) 1942 Gibson L-50 (WWII Banner Head) 1948 Gibson L-50 1949 Epiphone Blackstone "a sharp mind cuts cleaner than a sharp tool" |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
This was very thorough, I appreciate this! Thank you
__________________
1999 Norman B20 CW 2018 Recording King Rd-328 2003 Gibson J-100XT 2013 Gibson J-35 1957 Martin 0-15 2019 Martin DSS-17 1980 Martin D-35 |