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  #31  
Old 03-19-2016, 02:51 PM
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No sorry if I wasn't clear. I was referring back a few posts when he cut out the cardboard to place inside the guitar once the sides were bent???
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  #32  
Old 03-19-2016, 06:57 PM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Ahhhh...that is the inner mold which supports the bent sides until the top is on.

Most luthiers use outside molds. I think Larry uses the inner mold for simplicity and it allows him to make sure the sides are relaxed.
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Last edited by OddManOut; 03-19-2016 at 08:06 PM.
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  #33  
Old 03-22-2016, 08:51 PM
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Default Back Brace Prep and Layout

A boatload of pics have come in from Tahoe Guitar Co. Several Posts follow.

Here Larry preps and lays out the back braces. Larry goes for tall and thin "blades" for all four back braces.












Larry marks of the space for the neck block. I guess that's a "mock block".



And the tail block.



The cutouts for the center strip are marked.


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  #34  
Old 03-22-2016, 08:53 PM
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Default Back Brace Glue Up

Larry glues up the back braces.







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  #35  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:02 PM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default Back Brace Trimming

Larry takes the back brace ends down to 0.01 inch and reduces their overall mass.


Marking the ends to show the intersection with the rims.




A fixed offset is added.


The router and height guide are ready.



A tad of power tool action...


...and the brace ends are down to final height.



Now the curved chisel and skilled hands brings the ends into the familiar swept profile.







The brace heights are reduced. The braces will be brought back to a bladed profile.



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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
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But it all comes out on the inside
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Last edited by OddManOut; 03-23-2016 at 07:31 AM.
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  #36  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:12 PM
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Default Top Brace Layout

The top braces are laid out.



The X notch is cut.



Fits like a glove.


The rest of the usual suspects.













The top braces are glued up.
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  #37  
Old 03-22-2016, 09:22 PM
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Default Top Attached To Rims

Here the top is attached to the rims prior to tuning the top. Larry prefers to have the rims attached for the tuning process.

The spool clamp positions are marked.




The rims are notched to accept the brace ends above the sound hole (the other ends are faded to nothing).


Ready for launch.



Boom!



The top is now attached to the rims.


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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
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Last edited by OddManOut; 06-11-2017 at 07:36 AM.
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  #38  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:15 PM
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Is there significance in marking where each clamp will go when gluing the top? I mean there must be, but I would think one would just apply them to the construct as you go along?

Thanks
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  #39  
Old 03-24-2016, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB'sox View Post
Is there significance in marking where each clamp will go when gluing the top? I mean there must be, but I would think one would just apply them to the construct as you go along?

Thanks

There is...each clamp is pre-adjusted to the proper depth at each of the marked points. This increases the speed at which Larry is able to place the clamps once the glue is applied. The top needs to be clamped fairly rapidly before the glue sets up.

BTW, Larry commented to me that the new LMI glue sets up rather quickly...noticeably quicker than the previous formulation.
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  #40  
Old 03-24-2016, 10:44 PM
bajawatt bajawatt is offline
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Loving the thread. If I have a custom build in my future it would be an all California build. Following Larry's work.
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  #41  
Old 03-24-2016, 11:24 PM
tahoeguitar tahoeguitar is offline
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It takes about 20 minutes to get the threaded clamps all set to the right length and laid out exactly as they will go on the guitar. The glue would set up before I got the last clamp on if I didn't have a system for getting them on quickly. When they're all laid out, I can set and tighten all the claps in about seven minutes. A pretty common rule most luthiers use is to dry fit everything first anyway.
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  #42  
Old 03-25-2016, 07:35 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default More Bracing Pics

Quote:
Originally Posted by bajawatt View Post
Loving the thread. If I have a custom build in my future it would be an all California build. Following Larry's work.

Thanks much! Very glad you're enjoying it. Stay tuned...more to come!


Here are a few more pics of the top and back braces being worked upon.











The back braces shaped to profile.




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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
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  #43  
Old 03-25-2016, 07:40 AM
eljay eljay is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajawatt View Post
Loving the thread. If I have a custom build in my future it would be an all California build. Following Larry's work.
not to hijack this thread (too much) but i'll have my 00-14 from larry in early april. carp on madrose. will post the ngd, of course . . .
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  #44  
Old 03-25-2016, 07:48 AM
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Default Side Strips

In this sequence, Larry glues up the side strips. The are made from the offcuts of the back and/or sides. They help prevent grain line cracks, and if a crack should occur, they prevent it from traveling the length of the side.

The inner mold is removed.




The "unstripped" sides and the strip stock.




The side strips being dry fit.



Now they are glued and clamped.









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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually
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  #45  
Old 03-25-2016, 08:11 AM
OddManOut OddManOut is offline
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Default Neck Joint 1

Larry routs and carves the mortise and tenon for the neck joint.

Here are the necks for the two guitars Larry is currently building. Mine is the maple neck.


The heel prior to any carving.


A look at Larry's standard five-piece mahogany neck with the uncarved face of the heel.


With the bolt holes drilled through the tail block, the mortise is routed. The router is placed atop the jig shown and a mortise is born.






The neck is clamped to the body, and the position of the tenon is marked on the heel.




The tenon is now carved into the heel.
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Martin 00-18G; Waterloo WL-S; Furch: V1 OOM-SR, Green G-SR, Blue OM-CM; Tahoe Guitar Co.: OM (Adi/Hog), 000-12 (Carp/FG Mahog), 00-12 (Carp/Sinker Mahog), 00-14 (Adi/Ovangkol);

In the night you hide from the madman
You're longing to be
But it all comes out on the inside
Eventually
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