What really is a "set up"?

[40GuitarPlayer]

I often hear about "set up" -- but what does that really involve for a new guitar, say a Taylor. The strings are set, intonation, etc. from the mgf, and I can understand if you want to change the string hight for something in particular, but most things I've read just assume a guitar needs to be "set up" when it's received. Am I crazy for thinking/liking the way a guitar comes out of the box -- i.e., not ever guitar need "set up" out of the box...?

[sachi]

You're not crazy for liking it, but even the best guitars can sometimes be improved with a setup. My lovely GC-5 was nice off the wall (where it had been maintained by a very good small shop) but after I played it for a while I realized it was not as easy to play as my Martin 000-18. I took it to a luthier who agreed with me that the nut slots were a tad high. He lowered it and it is noticeably easier to play.

[Bob Womack]

I wrote an article about that. You can find it HERE.

Bob

[40GuitarPlayer]

Bob -- for some reason, the link to your articles wouldn't work.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks.

[Tom West]

Quite often the set up done at the factory is not the best for the type of playing that you do. Most times the strings are too high at the nut and action is generally high at the 12th fret. This will help to make sure there are no buzzs when the buyers try the guitars. When you buy from a good shop they should make sure to set it up for you.
Tom

[40GuitarPlayer]

Does anybody know what the factory specs are for string height for Taylors (and whether that measurement is considered high, low, or medium)?

[Bob Womack]

Rats. I was working on the iPad. Copying a URL into a post on iPad browsers can be... mmm... unreliable. Link fixed. Or you can find it HERE.

Bob

[Ned Milburn]

A full set up should include:

1) nut slots: these are usually not set up properly from the factory even on instruments over 1k. (There are production reasons for this.)

2) Saddle adjustment (usually lowering) if necessary.

3) truss adjustment if necessary

4) Polish frets / oil fingerboard (Oiling a fingerboard is important maintenance that can be done 1 or 2 times per year when changing strings. It keeps the fingerboard wood from drying and shrinking, avoiding fret ends that begin to poke out of the fingerboard edge.)

5) Tighten hardware (usually just tuning machines).

Some shops or private repairmen just charge a flat price based upon a full service setup, but others (myself included) only charge based upon what is necessary.

Nut slots require the most care, since tolerances are very very slight. Only a tenth of a millimetre can mean the difference between constant buzzing on the open string, or perfect sound with no buzzing. A tenth of a mm difference on the truss rod or saddle, for example, is not going to matter at all. Also, the truss rod can be adjusted any time, but the nut slots require a special set of nut files (anywhere up to or above 100 bucks for a full set). Nut slots that are too high mean that fretted notes are sharp near the lower frets (because you have to stretch the strings more than necessary when pressing down onto the fret). Also, too-high-nut-slots mean you have to press too hard, and this can lead to premature fret wear (again, especially near the lower frets).

Hope this helps.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

4) Polish frets / oil fingerboard (Oiling a fingerboard is important maintenance that can be done 1 or 2 times per year when changing strings. It keeps the fingerboard wood from drying and shrinking, avoiding fret ends that begin to poke out of the fingerboard edge.)

Opinions vary on this. I never oil fingerboards: in my experience it does not prevent the wood from drying and shrinking or having the fret ends poke out. Also, if the environment in which the instrument lives is sufficiently dry that fret ends poke out, the remedy is not to oil the fingerboard, but to humidify the entire instrument.

the nut slots require a special set of nut files (anywhere up to or above 100 bucks for a full set).

Nut slots do not require a set of nut files. No question they make the job quicker and easier, but they are not required. A $10 set of needle files will work quite satisfactorily. Gaged nut files are a relatively new invention. People have been making string instruments long before specialized nut files.

In my opinion, and in my shop, a "basic setup" also includes checking intonation. If the saddle is being altered, it's included in the setup, up to the limit of the design of that guitar. (If it requires a new saddle, wider saddle, different width/location slot, that's beyond "basic setup".) In my experience, few guitars have been correctly compensated to produce "accurate" intonation.

The basics of it as I do it are described here:http://web.me.com/charlestauber/luth...r_Setup_1.html

[sjino]

Great thread. I was just about to post something very similar. On my Taylor GS I've lowered the action at the bridge and ruled out the need for truss rod adjustment, but it still doesn't play as nicely with medium strings as my Martin D-28 with mediums. I've come to the conclusion that I need to have a pro take a look at my GS nut.

A couple of additional questions: Am I correct that a typical setup does not include fret dressing or fret leveling? And am I correct that "fret dressing" means checking for high frets and shaping/crowning/polishing, but "fret leveling" means making sure all frets are at the same height?

Lastly, what can I expect to pay (ballpark) for a setup, and/or fret dressing, and/or fret leveling?

Thanks!

[charles Tauber]

To quote the walrus in Through the Looking Glass, "Words mean what I want them to mean."

As far as guitar related words, different people mean different things although they may use the same words. For me, "fret dressing" and "fret levelling" are essentially the same action. For me, they mean, using an abrasive device to take the tops of the frets, either to remove wear in the tops of the frets or to level fret tops that are not level. Then, of course, re-crowning and polishing.

For me, "basic setup" does not include any fret work, although if new strings are being put on - usually the case with a setup - I'll clean the fingerboard and polish the frets.

A setup can run anywhere from $25 to $150 or more, depending upon who is doing it, their experience, skill and what they include in the setup. Fret dressing/levelling, $60 and up is typical, again, depending upon who is doing it.

I suggest that you find out what the person you take it to charges and what they include in that charge.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by sjino

Great thread. I was just about to post something very similar. On my Taylor GS I've lowered the action at the bridge and ruled out the need for truss rod adjustment, but it still doesn't play as nicely with medium strings as my Martin D-28 with mediums. I've come to the conclusion that I need to have a pro take a look at my GS nut.

A couple of additional questions: Am I correct that a typical setup does not include fret dressing or fret leveling? And am I correct that "fret dressing" means checking for high frets and shaping/crowning/polishing, but "fret leveling" means making sure all frets are at the same height?

Lastly, what can I expect to pay (ballpark) for a setup, and/or fret dressing, and/or fret leveling?

Thanks!

Fret dressing generally implies fret leveling, re-establishing the radius, re-crowning, and polishing. And no, this is not part of a standard set-up. If you ever find someone to do your fret dressing for under 100 bucks, either the work is garbage or he/she isn't charging you enough. Standard rates should be closer to $150, since it will take a few hours and usually requires re-tuning (lowering) the nut slots to match the lower fret height. The well-respected shop I used to work at in Toronto usually set aside up to 3 to 4 hours for a full fret dress, so you can see why the job needs to be charged as above. Also, a fret dress really does require a great deal of experience and artisanry to do a good job, and if it is off even a bit, you'll get annoying buzzes no matter how you adjust the truss rod.

[sjino]

Thanks so much for clarifying the terminology and the prices. I appreciate the information.

[jeanray1113]

Thanks for asking this question, because I've often wanted to but didn't want to reveal my ignorance. I have a 10 y/o Taylor 814 that plays and sounds great, but now you have me wondering, could it be even better? Or would it possibly have been setup before I picked it up?