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Rainsong dreadnought Hybrid series: 14th fret or short scale for finger picking ?
I am ordering a new Rainsong dreadnought Hybrid series today from Ted at LA Guitar Sales, to complement my CH-OM. He has both the standard dread with 14th fret to the body, and a custom one with a short scale (12 frets to the body).
I am a tall guy and I am comfortable with both configurations and strings tensions as far as playing comfort is concerned. What would you choose if you mainly play fingerstyle with your bare fingers ? (but you still want to save that "dreadnought" growl ?) I need quick answers, because time is short !!!! Thank you ! |
#2
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Ted would probably have an answer on that.
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YUP.... Emerald: X-20, Center hole X-10 (Maple) and X-7 (redwood), Spalted Chen Chen X 10 level 3, CA: Early OX and Cargo McPherson: Early Kevin Michael Proto Some wood things by Epi, Harmony, Takamine, Good Time, PRS, Slick, Gypsy Music, keyboards, wind controllers.. etc Last edited by kramster; 12-10-2018 at 06:13 AM. Reason: Grammar |
#3
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I think the 12 fret, like the CH series is going to sound more mellow, but the 14 fret access for my repertoire of fingerstyle songs is a necessity.
In my hands the newer 12 fret neck feels a little more comfortable than the 14. I've owned both CO and H series dreadnoughts before going parlor and the CO was definitely brighter. I thought the H series dreadnought was RainSong's closest product to a Martin dreadnought for tone and projection. The CO was brighter than my duo partner's HD-28V and closer in tone to his 000. Another thing to consider is the overall look. I think the 12 fret neck does not look quite proportional on a 14 fret dreadnought body (to my eye, I'm getting in trouble with this looks stuff). I have no proof of the following claims, but I think the two biggest variables in RainSong tone for the same body style are the bridge placement (12 vs. 14 fret neck) and the composite build up of the bridge plate like structure (Hybrid vs. Not Hybrid). Since I've got both CO and CH parlors, I am going guess the neck is a bigger factor (at this point I'm concluding my CO is a touch brighter than my CH). I think the Uni outer CF layer is more about looks. And lastly, be prepared that no cutaway RainSongs, due to no bracing and no cut away to support the fret board extension, will have a bit more fret board extension fall away than we've gotten used to since Taylor's NT neck forced every wood guitar manufacturer to make it look straight. In my youth I would not have considered a new guitar with the alignment perfect figuring I was starting off too close to a neck reset.
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jf45ir Free DIY Acoustic Guitar IR Generator .wav file, 30 seconds, pickup left, mic right, open position strumming best...send to direct email below I'll send you 100/0, 75/25, 50/50 & 0/100 IR/Bypass IRs IR Demo, read the description too: https://youtu.be/SELEE4yugjE My duo's website and my email... [email protected] Jon Fields Last edited by jonfields45; 12-10-2018 at 11:25 AM. |
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#5
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Nearly 20 years ago Taylor started marketing their NT neck where a reset is inexpensive and they actually extend the neck into the guitar body underneath the finger board extension. A big part of their marketing for the NT neck was the perfect alignment of the fingerboard from end to end including the part over the body. In response all the manufacturers of dove tail and bolt-on necks without the neck extending into the body (basically all of them except Bourgeois) had to figure out new tooling to get the same look in a new guitar and still have a high bridge saddle. A RainSong dreadnought sound board has no braces and it has an inflection in its curvature at the sound hole. The dreadnought has no cut away so the fingerboard extension will go down that curve. When you site down the neck the fret board extension will seem tilted back just like a better new Guild, Martin, or Gibson from my youth (I'm 61). As a plus the sound hole will not seem "rippled" because it is supported symmetrically. After all the concern in recent threads about RainSong sound board planarity, that even CF guitars are going to have at least minor variation, and people's surprise that uni CF cures with some cosmetic variation (because it is not a twill!), I thought it useful to point this out before you buy the guitar so that you are not surprised.
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jf45ir Free DIY Acoustic Guitar IR Generator .wav file, 30 seconds, pickup left, mic right, open position strumming best...send to direct email below I'll send you 100/0, 75/25, 50/50 & 0/100 IR/Bypass IRs IR Demo, read the description too: https://youtu.be/SELEE4yugjE My duo's website and my email... [email protected] Jon Fields Last edited by jonfields45; 12-10-2018 at 01:41 PM. |
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Short scale (~24.75") versus regular scale (~25.5") is independent of whether the neck joins the body at the 12th or 14th fret. I have not looked at the Rainsong website to see what combination they use. For example, Taylor moves the bridge south, while Martin elongates the body for their 12-fret models. For builders who move the bridge, a 12th fret neck join puts the bridge at the vibrational sweet spot, closer to the center of the lower bout, and gives a more mature warmer tone. It also puts the nut closer in to your body, so if you are mostly playing first position cowboy chords, your arm doe not have to extend as far outward - a benefit if you have shoulder issues. Conversely, it can be harder to play at frets beyond the 12th or 14th if you do not have a cutaway.
Short scale generally gives lower tension, so easier playing feel, and reaches are easier given the closer fret spacing. Regular scale tends to give more volume and punch because of the slightly higher tension. Ted could clarify all this for you when you call to order. I would trust his recommendation. Hope this helps. Last edited by Earl49; 12-10-2018 at 11:28 AM. |
#7
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Yes I did trust Ted's recommendation. Considering that I already own a Rainsong CH-OM, which already has a short scale, I ordered a 14th fret full scale Rainsong dread. Will post my impressions once I receive it!
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__________________
YUP.... Emerald: X-20, Center hole X-10 (Maple) and X-7 (redwood), Spalted Chen Chen X 10 level 3, CA: Early OX and Cargo McPherson: Early Kevin Michael Proto Some wood things by Epi, Harmony, Takamine, Good Time, PRS, Slick, Gypsy Music, keyboards, wind controllers.. etc |
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Of all the CF full sized guitars I've owned (H-DR, S-OM, CO-DR, CH-PA, CH-WS, CO-PA, Legacy Gloss, GX Raw, OX gloss) that was the best sounding one and a strong competitor for a Martin Dreadnought in tone and projection (to my ear).
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jf45ir Free DIY Acoustic Guitar IR Generator .wav file, 30 seconds, pickup left, mic right, open position strumming best...send to direct email below I'll send you 100/0, 75/25, 50/50 & 0/100 IR/Bypass IRs IR Demo, read the description too: https://youtu.be/SELEE4yugjE My duo's website and my email... [email protected] Jon Fields |
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Good choice....
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Emerald X20 Emerald X20-12 Fender Robert Cray Stratocaster Martin D18 Ambertone Martin 000-15sm |
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#12
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I'm too late to influence your decision, but I would have voted for the 14-fret neck with the longer scale. Will probably give you just a little more punch, and since you're a bigger person, you won't have to sacrifice any ability to reach the end of the neck. I have the 12-fret necks on both my Rainsongs (Shorty and a CH-WS), and I love them on those body styles, but I would probably go 14-fret if I ever got a Dreadnought or Jumbo. And since you already own a 12-fret OM, the 14-fret Dread will be a bit more distinctive.
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#13
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That is exactly what I decided to buy! Delivery tomorrow, Friday. Thank you.
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