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  #46  
Old 03-01-2018, 11:55 AM
ChrisN ChrisN is offline
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Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
For three decades, I've used a 6" ruler calibrated in 32nds of an inch and mm on the other side. The ruler I use has calibrations on its end, as well, allowing the ruler to be set on edge and to read vertical measurement from its end. That works especially well for measuring string height at the 12th fret, where the ruler sits on top of the frets and the end is at the 12th fret and string height can be read directly from the vertical scale on the ruler's end.

I've tried a variety of other measuring instruments, but that is still my preference. A few years ago I tried a guitar string height gauge, calibrated in .01" and similar mm, but don't prefer it. There's nothing wrong with it, but its just not what I'm used to. The one I bought was $3, including shipping, from China, similar to this one.
I like my Products Engineering 6" ruler (mine's in /32 and /64 on one side, /8 and /16 on the other, but no calibrations on the end that allow vertical reading when placed on several threads - that sounds handy). I tried using that tool on my sloping bridge top against a pulled-forward saddle (off-vertical) to measure a radiused saddle top, and I just was not comfortable I was getting consistent readings that would allow for the precision needed to reduce the saddle by measurements in the thousands. I probably would get better with time, but I'm not there yet, so I lean on technology, for now. I've also got the string gauge piece from China and use it just to ballpark things, not for precision stuff, but it's good for what I use it for.

I'll keep an eye out for that ruler!
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  #47  
Old 03-01-2018, 12:08 PM
murrmac123 murrmac123 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisN View Post
Let me know if you can recommend a good quality digital or analog (dial gauge) caliper I can use for this kind of guitar work (measuring stacked feeler gauges).
You don't need a caliper of any description for doing "for this kind of guitar work ".

Bite the bullet and buy a set of pin gauges. Your troubles will be over.

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  #48  
Old 03-01-2018, 12:08 PM
LeightonBankes LeightonBankes is offline
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Default I don't know anything

I don't know anything, but for me, it is way easier and gives better results to sand the fretboard radius on the top of the saddle, then sand the bottom of the saddle on a flat surface until the E/e are the height I want, and everything in the middle just works out automatically perfect (from an engineering standpoint, I know some people want wonky action on the middle strings, for some reason [I know i know, bending, but my fingers don't seem to care, they bend the strings])
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disclaimer I don't know anything, everything I say is a guess, estimate, hearsay, or opinion. For your safety, don't assume anything I say is a fact. Research
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  #49  
Old 03-01-2018, 01:25 PM
redir redir is offline
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Same as Charles though not quite as long I've been using a steel ruler for 25 years. The ruler I have measures in 64/ths but I just use the 32's. A measurement of 3&1/2 - 32's is close enough. It's pretty incredible what the eye is capable of really, don't doubt it so much

I also do just like Banks mentioned. While I understand that a mathematician can demonstrate on paper that the string heights will be off if you make the radius of the saddle the same as that of the fretbaord in the real world that's like pulling hairs.
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