Height Of Straightedge Above Bridge?

[John Arnold]

Are your braces radiused?

Yes.

So you put the plywood on the top and then clamp?

Yes. The plywood is for clamping the top to the sides. Of course, it presses the top flat while it is clamped, but the top springs back. The top surface of the sides is flat; it does not have a radius.

[Victory Pete]

I resisted clamping the braces to the soundboard using my radius dish and radiused braces. I have done all my builds with the flat base of my clamping deck and radius braces. I believe this conflict is what gives the top some stiffness improving tone and volume. I see some people use a radius dish and straight braces, achieving the same effect. I think using a radius dish and radius braces would make a less stiff top which may inhibit good tone and volume.

[John Arnold]

I am satisfied with the tone and volume of my guitars. Theories only take me so far...
I am all about repeatable results.

[Victory Pete]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I am satisfied with the tone and volume of my guitars. Theories only take me so far...
I am all about repeatable results.

I would be interested in hearing from someone who uses a radius dish and radiused braces.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by Victory Pete

I would be interested in hearing from someone who uses a radius dish and radiused braces.

I use radiused braces and clamp against a radius dish to create a fair arch in both the backs and tops of guitars and other types of instruments.

The arched plates do a lot to create an instrument that has consistant tone and is better able to handle stresses induced by annual variation in relative humidity.

As far as a radiused top combined with radiused braces, one needs to look no further than any of the fine archtop guitar makers. Players don't complain about "good tone or volume" due to the "extreme" arching of those instruments as compared to the standard flat top guitar.

[RHayes]

Originally Posted by Victory Pete

I resisted clamping the braces to the soundboard using my radius dish and radiused braces. I have done all my builds with the flat base of my clamping deck and radius braces. I believe this conflict is what gives the top some stiffness improving tone and volume. I see some people use a radius dish and straight braces, achieving the same effect. I think using a radius dish and radius braces would make a less stiff top which may inhibit good tone and volume.

As an entry level builder, this is something I'm interested in. Having a hard time accepting the "conflict adds stiffness improving tone and volume", wondering if you are scalloping your braces before or after they are glued in. I've always had some belief that all of the little "conflicts" that get built in to a new instrument need to relax before its intended identity is arrived at and is considered "opened up" "played in" or whatever descriptive term.

Using both a radius dish, and a separate radius beam I can simultaneously create braces and glue up while the radius dish is occupied. Gluing the braced top to sides and kerfing that have been sanded to the radius seems like a win win situation and I thank those before me who determined (in my case a 28' radius top) sets the stage for an acceptable "straightedge above bridge" relationship. I may question this approach at some point, but for now I can work on other ways to improve.

[Victory Pete]

Originally Posted by Rudy4

I use radiused braces and clamp against a radius dish to create a fair arch in both the backs and tops of guitars and other types of instruments.

The arched plates do a lot to create an instrument that has consistant tone and is better able to handle stresses induced by annual variation in relative humidity.

As far as a radiused top combined with radiused braces, one needs to look no further than any of the fine archtop guitar makers. Players don't complain about "good tone or volume" due to the "extreme" arching of those instruments as compared to the standard flat top guitar.

Thanks for the post, Archtops may differ in the way they produce sound compared to fixed bridge guitars. I imagine the top is braced lighter due to the floating bridge.

[Victory Pete]

I now have proof that my measurement of .425" from straightedge to top of saddle is ideal. I thought I was setting this neck to get this measurement but my neck had warped back without me realizing it so the clearance was actually .375". This leaves the strings too high at .100" at 12th fret. I want .080". I have a cut through saddle with 1/8" of exposed saddle. I do have 1/2" top to string clearance. It was an interesting unintended experiment but I am convinced. I am not sure how anyone can dispute this. I will be taking this neck off and resetting it to the proper angle. One thing to consider is that string action only gets higher with time, so it is a losing battle against time eventually.