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#1
05-13-2010, 09:38 AM
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Help with taking back off guitar
UPS did me the kind deed of smashing my Tacoma DM9. I need to take the back off to repair braces and cracks. The back has seperated near the heel block, around the upper bout. What is the best way to get the back off?
Steam, or pry cautiously or...? Thanks for your help. 
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#2
05-13-2010, 06:54 PM
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Well, have you made a claim with UPS? If so, don't touch it. If not, do you plan too?
At any rate, first thing you should do it take the strings off (assume you've done that already) so there is no tension on the neck. Next thing to do is to take a bunch of pictures and post them so we can see. The next thing is to make absolutely sure you want to tackle the job. It's not the easiest to pull off (no pun intended) with out damaging the finish. Also, is the back/side bound? What are you planning for that? Shoot some pics and post up. If you really want to tackle the job you might get more responses from a larger group of luthiers by posting at http://www.luthiersforum.com/ where many of the AGF sponsors are prominent members
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Rod True, aspiring luthier My current project A guitar I built for my Father in Law The Celtic Beauty - The Epic Journey True SJ - #9
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#3
05-13-2010, 11:58 PM
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If you are the original retail purchaser, it could still be under warranty. You can go to http://www.tacomaguitars.com/resources/about.php and see if it's still under warranty and find a service center.
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#4
05-14-2010, 10:35 AM
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more details
It was a guitar I sold and shipped. I was the original puchaser. I bought it NOS off E-BAY in 2008, I think. Its a 2005. UPS already gave me refund. I just wanted to attempt the repair myself. Its not good for anything anyway. I'll try to get pics up this weekend.
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#5
05-15-2010, 02:54 AM
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base don the fact that we have no pics......
if it's bound use a router with a bearing cutter to remove the binding. then a hot clothes iron worked slowly around the outer edge will loosen the glue. use a piece of cotton to stop metal to wood contact to prevent Iron shaped scorches...... then a knife or even a steel ruler worked around the join to seperate the back from the linings. putting the back ON again will be awkward as the sides almost definitely will flex one way or the other when you release them from the back.......
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#6
05-15-2010, 10:32 PM
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I was the one who bought this guitar only to have it arrive damaged. I was bummed. I was wondering what happened to that guitar and now I know. For all of you who may not know, fretnwail is a standup guy. Hopefully you'll be able to fix it and then post pictures afterwards. Good luck.
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#8
05-17-2010, 10:02 AM
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I'd try to get some payback from UPS first.
DM9's don't have any back binding -they were Tacoma's entry dred. Without any pics posted it's hard to make an internet triage of your guitar. You might be able to fix your bracing from the soundhole and you can repair cracks in the back from outside the guitar. DM9's were braced real light and thus are more fragile then they look. With no binding and an open pore finish on the back any "nibble" marks from tools are gonna be real hard to hide. Try to fix the guitar without taking it apart. Last edited by arie; 05-17-2010 at 10:08 AM.
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#9
05-17-2010, 01:25 PM
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Once you take apart entry level guitar there is a big chance you will not be able to put it back. The entry level guitars are not really made to withstand much repair... yeah if you can't work from soundhole, forget about it.
With all the work you will probably make easier a new guitar... If this was a top I would advice to take it apart as it is a great way to learn and putting new top brings a new qualities to the sound, but back...too much work for nothing.
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My Guitars: -Lucida $60 new with soundport arguably now plays like $85 one -LaPatrie Presentation, factory rejected -Takamine AN10 - My own build DeJonge Standard Steel String - My own build Santos Hernandez cypress flamengo - My own build Bubinga Tornavoz classical - My own build Hammered Dulcimer - My own build Travel Guitar
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#15
05-20-2010, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
That crack and that separation don't look too bad. The crack might need a patch spliced in or some epoxy or ca dropped into the crack followed up with some scraping and spot re-finishing. You can if you like, re-enforce the area with some small diamonds glued to the inside and tied up to the outside of the guitar with fine thread that is inserted through tiny drilled holes. When all is glued up, chop off the thread and sand, scrape and re-finish the area to complete the job. And you're good to go -provided their is no damage to the kerfing on the inside. The separation can be delt with in much the same way in addition to some good strapping, taping, or clamping to hold it all tight. You'll need to clean out any dust or funk from the gaps with DI water and light amounts of compressed air. Any pics of the bracing issues? Last edited by arie; 05-20-2010 at 11:32 AM.
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