I need advice on my bridge...

winky_4th · #1 06-03-2010, 09:13 AM

Hi all, I just bought a used Fender Acoustic via internet and am happy with my purchase over all. It has a straight neck and sounds great plugged in.

The one issue I'm having with it is I've sanded down the plastic saddle to lower the action so that the saddle is barely sticking out of the wood bridge, I've got the truss rod set up straight and tight, but the action is still a bit too high. It's just too high up around the 10th fret to be comfortable. The nut is a great height, no issue there.

So my question is, can I sand down the wooden bridge itself? I'd like to take another mm off the saddle but if I do the strings would be sitting on or too near the bridge.

And if it is possible and common enough to sand down the bridge itself, are there any precautions I need to take? Like making sure dust doesn't get into the "under the saddle pickup" or something...

Thanks for your help, I've tried to find articles or forums on this but have had no success.

SteveS · #2 06-03-2010, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winky_4th

......So my question is, can I sand down the wooden bridge itself? I'd like to take another mm off the saddle but if I do the strings would be sitting on or too near the bridge........

No! Sorry, but you are describing points to a neck reset.

winky_4th · #3 06-03-2010, 10:19 AM

I can't imagine it needs a neck reset. It's practically brand new, I know I got it used but it looks unplayed, unworn,...

I know Fender doesn't make the most amazing acoustics but this guitar lists for $XXX, they wouldn't let one go to market if it needs a neck reset, would they?

Anyways, why the "No!"? What would be the issue with sanding down the bridge?

Thanks again...

SteveS · #4 06-03-2010, 11:04 AM

The other option is that it is dry. How is the humidity control for the guitar? What % RH is it currently?
If the guitar is dry, restoring it to proper humidity could raise the bridge as the top expands and bows up.

If RH is good and has been good then it points to a neck reset regardless of the age/cost/reputation etc. Stuff happens.

Do not sand the bridge. There is nothing wrong with it. Why would you want to work on a component that is within specifications and not fix the component that is out of specification -the neck angle?

arie · #5 06-03-2010, 12:52 PM

do you have pix?

Zigeuner · #6 06-03-2010, 02:21 PM

From time to time, guitars are built with poor neck sets. I've had a few Martins in the past that were less than choice in that regard and not knowing anyone who could do the work, I just sold them. I'm talking the 1960's.

As mentioned above, when the saddle is all the way down and the only way to lower the action so that it's playable, it's really time to consider having the neck reset.

Problems arise when the bridge is shaved down. Sometimes this can cut down on volume and it can also cause subtle changes in intonation. It's certainly not anything that I would consider.

In the past, say 20 or more years ago, shaving of bridges was fairly common, even at factory repair stations. Nowadays with a proliferation of good, knowledgable luthiers in the market, it's much more common to have a neck reset done.

I'm familiar with Martins and most of them, until the advent of mortise and tenon in their later instruments, have a dovetail and are glued with either hide glue or aliphatic so they can be disassembled with heat and/steam. I really don't know about Fender. I know that many of the Asian instruments are built with epoxies and they can be almost unbelievable difficult to disassemble.

Good luck.

Mike_A · #7 06-03-2010, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveS

The other option is that it is dry. How is the humidity control for the guitar? What % RH is it currently?
If the guitar is dry, restoring it to proper humidity could raise the bridge as the top expands and bows up.

If RH is good and has been good then it points to a neck reset regardless of the age/cost/reputation etc. Stuff happens.

Do not sand the bridge. There is nothing wrong with it. Why would you want to work on a component that is within specifications and not fix the component that is out of specification -the neck angle?

actually, if it were dry it would have low action and sunken top. so its probably the opposite, its probably a wet guitar with a bulged top.

if drying it doesnt lower the action, then the bulge is probably a structural issue. if there is no bulge behind the bridge then its just a bad neck angle and may need a reset indeed.

how high is the action at the 12th fret?

naccoachbob · #8 06-03-2010, 05:48 PM

Take a straight edge about 24" long and set it between the 3rd and 4th strings on the frets. Slide it to the bridge. It should be about 1/32th" above the bridge if the neck is set correctly.
This is what I've understood when when told how to set the action on the acoustic kit I built.
There are many, far more experienced people here who could tell you if I'm wrong on it or not. But I believe it to be correct.
If the straightedge is showing much higher or lower, it could be the neck is not correctly set to the body.
Good luck,
Bob

SMan · #9 06-03-2010, 05:59 PM

FWIW I had a new Taylor once that needed a neck reset.

winky_4th · #10 06-03-2010, 08:42 PM

Thanks so much for all your input. I'll have to price out Neck Resets and consider the possibility of returning it so I could buy an acoustic locally where I can check the neck first...

I'll get out the straight edge and also measure the action above the 12th fret for Mike A here in a little bit when I get home.

Thanks again...

BlackHeart · #11 06-07-2010, 12:36 AM

I have a Yairi trainging classical guitar, with absurdly high action, I have to lower the bridge by shaving it down, and the nut, but the bridge needs to be lowered also, as there is no way to reset the neck.

Mystic · #12 06-07-2010, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlackHeart

I have a Yairi trainging classical guitar, with absurdly high action, I have to lower the bridge by shaving it down, and the nut, but the bridge needs to be lowered also, as there is no way to reset the neck.

HUH? you take the neck off, change the angle and put it back on.

Mystic · #13 06-07-2010, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winky_4th

Hi all, I just bought a used Fender Acoustic via internet and am happy with my purchase over all. It has a straight neck and sounds great plugged in.

The one issue I'm having with it is I've sanded down the plastic saddle to lower the action so that the saddle is barely sticking out of the wood bridge, I've got the truss rod set up straight and tight, but the action is still a bit too high. It's just too high up around the 10th fret to be comfortable. The nut is a great height, no issue there.

So my question is, can I sand down the wooden bridge itself? I'd like to take another mm off the saddle but if I do the strings would be sitting on or too near the bridge.

And if it is possible and common enough to sand down the bridge itself, are there any precautions I need to take? Like making sure dust doesn't get into the "under the saddle pickup" or something...

Thanks for your help, I've tried to find articles or forums on this but have had no success.

First have the setup checked by someone who knows what they are doing. Yes it could need a neck reset even if it was almost new. A lot can be done with a good setup though. Sanding the bridge down is NOT the proper way to set the action. read ALL of this this:
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/pagelist.html#Special
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musi...neckangle.html

BlackHeart · #14 06-07-2010, 02:36 PM

I don't take the neck off a classical!?? the bridge is too high, in comparison to a standard classical bridge. You have to take off some of the front lip, and hope you don't have to deepen the saddle slot, and make the grade. Awsome sounding guitar though!