Needs repaired but just beautiful (to me)

wblock77 · #1 06-08-2023, 02:50 PM

NGD for me. I can't believe how much I just love this thing. It's not in playable condition but I will definitely take the first do no harm approach on it. I will bring it in to my luthier tomorrow for a game plan. I wish one of you Ace vintage guys were in Central Florida so I could bring it to you for an evaluation.

1934 Gibson L-50

1934 Gibson L50.jpg

redir · #2 06-09-2023, 06:35 AM

That's a honey right there! What makes it unplayable at this point?

wblock77 · #3 06-09-2023, 01:05 PM

It looks pretty in the picture but there is some work to do on the back side. It looks like it was sitting in a puddle of water with warpage. I'm hoping to straighten it. Luckily, it is a flat back model so maybe I'll figure out a way to get lucky. Suggestions welcomed. With the warpage, the braces all came loose inside. I'm afraid to bring it up to pitch. I don't think any of them broke but I think the back has to come off. I took the back binding off as it was flapping in some places. It came off very clean
.IMG_8611.jpg

wblock77 · #4 06-09-2023, 01:13 PM

A piece of the back binding was missing when I received it. I'll have to figure out a way to color match a patch. None of the rest of the guitar appears warped. I really don't want to replace the back as the finish still looks good. Well, not good but good for the age and I like that.

c.jpg

Skarsaune · #5 06-09-2023, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wblock77

A piece of the back binding was missing when I received it. I'll have to figure out a way to color match a patch. None of the rest of the guitar appears warped. I really don't want to replace the back as the finish still looks good. Well, not good but good for the age and I like that.

I had to replace some white binding on a Mossman rebuild. The new binding was bright white, totally out of place. But a little shot of StewMac's Vintage Amber gave just the right aged look.

Might help you out.

redir · #6 06-09-2023, 02:51 PM

Any experienced luthier should be able to handle that. Best to analyze what it needs in person but it's quite possible that back can be pressed and glued right back down in place and re-braced through the sound hole. It's also possible that they may determine it's best to remove the back.

printer2 · #7 06-09-2023, 02:52 PM

Could have been stored with the back next to a heat source. One day I will straighten this one, actually worse than it looks, some heat and moisture over time (I hope).

wblock77 · #8 06-09-2023, 03:43 PM

redir - Yes, I can push down on the high spots and it goes back to shape pretty well. I'd be satisfied. What I am thinking is that it might be easier to take the back off than inspect and fix those braces through the little F holes.

Thanks Fred. I'll bet you are right. There is no water staining. I live in a warm climate and very seldom ever run a heater. I didn't think about that.

redir · #9 06-09-2023, 06:17 PM

Oh right yeah. Some of those actually do have round sound holes but yeah certainly in that case the back comes off which is not that bad on those to do.

wblock77 · #10 06-09-2023, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skarsaune

I had to replace some white binding on a Mossman rebuild. The new binding was bright white, totally out of place. But a little shot of StewMac's Vintage Amber gave just the right aged look.

Might help you out.

Thanks Skarsaune. I'll order some when I get closer to putting the binding back on. Lots of work to do before I get there.

Bill

wblock77 · #11 06-10-2023, 05:47 PM

Oh my, taking the back off was tough. The good news is I got it off without damaging anything. The bad news is I bent my stainless steel dental scraper I always use for doing this kind of thing. I'm not strong enough to bend it back. I did a neck reset on a 1975 J-45 recently and I'll do 3 of those before doing this again. Everything is as expected but I don't understand the mine shaft in the neck block that goes all the way to the other side. It must be the gap at the back of the dovetail that is normally not seen. The guitar is borderline needing a reset. The saddle is lowered the whole way and action was just a little high. I was going to wait and see where I was at after putting the back on as the body geometry will be back. Also entertaining the idea of a California Neck Reset. Mostly because if the dovetail was glued to the back, it also may be glued to the top somehow. I wonder if I should steam it off now as I have such good access. Sending pics for your amusement.

back off.jpg

Neck Block.jpg

Dental scraper.jpg

Fathand · #12 06-11-2023, 07:22 AM

I would be looking at removing wood from the adjustable bridge so it can be adjusted lower before messing with California neck resets. You could remove from the bottom or in between or even buy a new bridge to experiment with. They aren't expensive https://www.amazon.com/LIXBD-Tailpie...%2C175&sr=8-36

wblock77 · #13 06-11-2023, 07:33 AM

Fathand - That sounds like the best plan and that is what I'll do. I'll keep the original bridge in the case. I'd really like to leave no footprints (other than a few cleats) that I have even been in here. Thanks for your input.

printer2 · #14 06-11-2023, 09:03 AM

You have the dovetail exposed and can get steam in with little trouble. I would do it rather than a California reset.

redir · #15 06-11-2023, 09:41 AM

Some times the backs come off real easy sometimes they don't. Getting it on so that the binding ledge is perfect is the trickiest part. That's why I like to build a simple cardboard out side mold first. Sometimes when you remove the back the body springs back to an odd shape from years of tension.

If you plan on routing a new binding ledge then it does'nt matter much but if you want to use the original binding you could still make a mold based off the top.