Low profile capo

[reeve21]

David,

The Shubb classic or original style is very low profile. I've tried a few others (but none of the really pricey ones) and this is my favorite. No problem making that B7.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[RBK]

I've been using the G7th Performance II for the last several years with my Epiphone DR500MCE never any problems with key of E, F or G cord progressions on any fret.

Rick

[JKMartin]

Originally Posted by jjhturbo

How well does this capo work on guitars with differing fretboard radiuses? (radii?)

That's a good question, and they don't spec the radius on their site. Generally capos will work over a range of radiuses (radii).

I've seen good reviews for them on another site that focuses on Martin guitars so they would seem to work with 16" fretboards, and probably 14" as well. I'm more familiar with Elliotts. I have several 16" Elliotts but bought a 12" for my Fairbanks.

[JKMartin]

Originally Posted by reeve21

David,

The Shubb classic or original style is very low profile. I've tried a few others (but none of the really pricey ones) and this is my favorite. No problem making that B7.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/det...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Something to be aware of with a side-mounted Shubb is that you need to get one sized for the thickness of the guitar neck. For Martins with mod-V profiles (VS or Authentics) and other guitars with thicker necks, you will need a Shubb S3V.

[mcmars]

Capos are a love hate type deal. I have used shubbs most my life, but have bought a few of the G7 newport capos as they have low profile, are adjustable tension and seem to have better intonation than the shubb. But either of them work good as you can expect. They will always be in your way, but you figure out how to move them back a tad and get used to them in being the way.

[Deliberate1]

Originally Posted by jjhturbo

Not necessarily differing "nut widths"....but you do have to consider the fretboard radius from guitar to guitar.

Yes, I now understand that. And I have a Froggy Bottom which, I think has a 20" radius. Others, less than that.
David

[jaymarsch]

I have only used the spring loaded Shubbs, not the yoke style. I have two Elliott’s and they work fine on all my guitars. I have one wide and one regular and have 3 guitars - each with a compound radius. I talked with Elliott folks directly and the design accommodated for the radius. The G7th Heritage is a yoke style with an adaptive technology that adapts to a variety of radius’s but I prefer the tone and footprint of the Elliott. I hope that you find what will work best.
Jayne

[Shadowfox]

Originally Posted by Deliberate1

Friends, I need a capo with a lower profile. For the first time this past week I used a capo that I bought without knowing what to get. When the tune went from the G shape to B7, the capo got in the way and I had to scrunch up my fingers as best I could to make the form. I found it to be a distraction and impediment for my newbie fingers. I did see that others had capos that were considerably thinner, some of which had a screw tensioner.
Suggestions? Thanks.
David

Honestly, I think that the G7 Performance is the best in that regard. It's narrow and easy to put on.

[erhino41]

I prefer Thalia capos. They're bulky but I find I can position them further from the fret without buzzing giving ample room for my large fingers to fret a b7 chord comfortably.

[Methos1979]

I've been using the Shubb FineTune F1 as of late. I really like the action on the yoke style capo's that apply pressure evenly and therefore the tuning seems to stay better. I found the FineTune was a nice compromise between the inexpensive Paige and very expensive Elliot or G7 Performance models.

I did just order a Colorado yoke capo from Maury to try out. I'm intrigued to see if having that extra neck real estate is something I'll find useful. I 'run into' my F1 on occasion but not so much as to be problematic. But I also like trying out new technologies and designs and the price point was just right.

[TBman]

The Paige Clik and Taylor capo are low profile, but the B7 is generally always going to run up against a capo.

[DavidE]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

I've been using the Shubb FineTune F1 as of late. I really like the action on the yoke style capo's that apply pressure evenly and therefore the tuning seems to stay better. I found the FineTune was a nice compromise between the inexpensive Paige and very expensive Elliot or G7 Performance models.



I did just order a Colorado yoke capo from Maury to try out. I'm intrigued to see if having that extra neck real estate is something I'll find useful. I 'run into' my F1 on occasion but not so much as to be problematic. But I also like trying out new technologies and designs and the price point was just right.

I’m curious about the Colorado capo. Please post a review in a separate thread.

[UncleJesse]

Originally Posted by DavidE

I’m curious about the Colorado capo. Please post a review in a separate thread.

Not the OP, but I got a Colorado capo recently and I love it. I have lots of capos. Ones by Elliot, G7th, Barry Collings, Kyser, Schubb, etc. I'm finding I'm reaching for the Colorado most often because of the extra space it allows for my hand.

[phcorrigan]

Originally Posted by Methos1979

I've been using the Shubb FineTune F1 as of late. I really like the action on the yoke style capo's that apply pressure evenly and therefore the tuning seems to stay better. I found the FineTune was a nice compromise between the inexpensive Paige and very expensive Elliot or G7 Performance models.

I use a G7th Heritage on my HD-28V, but it slides around too much on the chrome flat-wound strings on my Gretsch, so I use a Paige standard cradle capo. One of these days I may splurge on a Shubb FineTune Royale Capo F1g in gold, to match the hardware on my Gretsch!

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by Deliberate1

OP here. Obliged for all the suggestions which I will explore. As an aside, which style of capo, if any, tends to preserve proper intonation?
David

Hi D1…

A yoke style capo, with a thin upper armature which closely matches the curvature of your fingerboard will cause the strings to be more in tune with themselves after capoing.

If it's more curved, it will press the outside strings harder in order to seal the center strings. If it's too shallow a curve, it presses the center strings first and has to press them sharper to press the outer strings.

A soft rubber bumper, or plastic tube covering it still deforms the strings some causing sharpness.

Closely matched Yoke style upper arm is best since it pulls with even pressure from the center of the neck. Most designs use a centered rubber pad underneath while applying pressure from the outside…

Closely matching the curvature of your fingerboard so it seals all the strings with similar pressure at least assures that the intonation is going to be the same amount of sharp (capos all cause sharpness because they bend the strings across the leading fret in a downward direction).

I've never owned a capo which didn't cause at least a tiny bit of sharpness, and I always tweak-tuned after putting on capos on when playing solo with them, because people have ears. You can certainly get-away-with-more when playing in an ensemble/group/band with a capo.

I own a lot of capos, and the McKinney/Elliott I had built for my Olson is the best at what you describe.

My best three guitar's fingerboards all have similar profiles (the fourth is very close, but wider), and I know which strings are going to need a tweak with capos while I'm putting capos on. This speeds up the quick-tweaks (while bantering).

For me, when playing my instruments, it's the 6th, 3rd and 2nd strings, and sometimes the 4th.

One last thing…the material which presses strings on every capo I've owned develops dents, and/or hardens up after years of constant use.

So if I cannot replace the upper bumper, I replace the capos.

Hope this adds to the discussion…