#16
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I have some nut files now but for 20 plus years all I ever used was hardware store needle files. Probably a $15 dollar 'investment.' That's all you really need and has been used by luthiers since the beginning of time.
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#17
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In the far past have had some luck with a fine rat tail file. Advantage not much chance of string binding in the nut but the way you have to hold the file while the nut is still on the neck leave very limited room for strokes without gouging something. Many years back brought a nut slot file set from Stewmac.
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Made to one with pride and love To be that we hold so dear A voice from heavens above |
#18
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Maybe the fancy ones I have now are "better", but it's really just more stuff.. you can soak 'em in vinegar to keep them cutting, too. |
#19
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If you want the latest trends, use gauged saws, which cut much faster, and diamond nut files. The saws won't really cut widths different than the kerf of the saw, however, while files can be rocked to increase the width of the slot. |
#20
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Faster is definitely more appealing. |
#21
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[QUOTE=redir;6767834]I have one that is pretty clogged up at the moment I think becasue I may have gotten CA in there but not sure. Is that the trick to keeping files sharp though?
If you got CA on it you'll likely need to first soak it in acetone. If not, hit it with a brass-bristle brush, then the vinegar soak; after that, a bit of baking soda solution to neutralize it (not sure the last part is necessary, but I do it.) This works until the file is really on its last legs.. |
#22
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Saws leave a more-or-less flat-bottomed kerf/fret slot. I've not found any disadvantage to that vs. a round or V-bottomed slot. Others have different opinions and preferences. |
#23
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Never mind, not worth it.
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#24
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#25
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I have these shots of "nut slot depth setting" using sandpaper folded over a fine tooth back saw. This actually works well, and 220 paper folded in half works well for the unwound strings.
Using a "half pencil" to mark slot absolute depth: Last edited by Rudy4; 07-25-2021 at 09:36 AM. |
#26
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Not everyone has these, but I use the butt end of string sized drills in a pin vise to adjust the heights of slots.
On new nuts, I drill the slots before sizing the height of the nut. This isn't the fastest method, but I like the accurately formed bottom radius. |
#27
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Fancy is not needed. |
#28
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needle files & razor saws - - - my opinions
Long conversation, cut to short solutions.
Three bucks for a set of needle files and see whether anything more is needed to get the job done. X-acto 'razor' saws are inexpensive and readily available, as are Zona saws. These saws come in varying thicknesses and tooth direction (some are 'push' saws, others are 'draw' saws). They all have reinforced backs to help them cut true. Saws made from feeler gauges are unbacked and bendy unless someone's taken the extra step to reinforce them. 'Luthier' nut files are nice , but are they expensive! |
#29
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I use a thin X-Acto saw to start the nut slots to a rough depth, and then finish with the feeler gauges and other tools. It keeps things pretty well in alignment.
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