Rookie Mistake - Acetone on Nitro Lacquer = Frankenstein

[kmckenna45]

I made a rookie mistake that I'm kicking my self in the butt about -

I have a 2015 Gibson J-35 with Antique Natural top. I bought it used with a "repaired" crack below the saddle - where the owner used yellow-wood glue to "repair". It was left with a 1mm yellow strip - like filler, in the crack.

Me, trying to be a genius, tried to use acetone on a Q-tip to soften the glue. Not only didn't it soften, but (as you've already guessed) - I messed up the lacquer - it basically immedicately dissolved when I touched it with the Q-Tip.

So - around the crack, I have a 1/4" x 4" strip of "roughed up" dried lacquer. (see horrendous photo)

Help!

I tried to take it to a luthier, but he won't touch it. I think the Luthier's in NY are so busy - they don't want to take on a touchy project.

I'm guessing the best way to fix it is to sand it down and re-lacquer with a couple of coats - I'm hoping the new laquer will melt into the old.

I'm completely at a loss on what to do. Or, how to do it.

I'm actually really good with woodworking - but this is such precise work.

Any suggestions? I've scoured Frets.com and YT, but this is more like a small refinishing job than anything I've seen there.

Thanks.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Obf...ew?usp=sharing

[mirwa]

I dont blame the luthier for not taking it on.

It needs to have the top stripped and refinished to blend it in now

Steve

[phavriluk]

There's no way 'a couple of coats' of anything are going to do anything but compound the problem.

Maybe asking Gibson if their repair department can handle the disassembly, strip, and refinish. Neck and bridge are going to be removed and reinstalled.

[Vee_Voe]

I would try to remove as much of that glue residue as you can. As far as blending the lacquer, since it's clear I think you'll be okay to respray a couple of fresh coats, if you're able to level sand and make that crack repair area flat as possible with the existing coat then you should be able to blend with a couple of coats of new lacquer on top. I would recommend using lacquer retarder when thinning your lacquer, it'll help the new coats burn into the existing one.

If the crack repair area is too deep to do a level sand then I would do several rounds of drop fill with lacquer using lacquer retarder in between rounds to help burn in. After a few rounds when it's built up enough to level sand then I would go for a couple of spray coats of lacquer on top. I've done both of these methods in the past with good results, hopefully save you from a full refinish

[srick]

KM - I’ve been pondering your problem since you posted it and have to chuckle, because I probably would have made the same mistake. Kudos to you for having the guts to post the picture!

Let me tell you a story about a now departed friend. ‘Fox’ picked up a 1934 Martin 0 guitar at a local pawn shop. He knew what it was, as did the shop owner, but the instrument had some really big cracks and was missing the logo. It also came in two pieces. In good condition, these instruments fetch about $5000. This one was sold for considerably less. But this was an inexpensive way to purchase a classic guitar, so he bought it.

Fearlessly, Fox used some mahogany strips and cleats to repair the crack. He reglued the loose braces. He put the two halves back together. Then, he painted grain lines on the repair and over-sprayed. He hand lettered the C.F. Martin decal back on the headstock with gold paint from ‘Hobby Lobby’. Fox did an incredible job and the untrained eye would never have picked up on it. But obviously, the professionals could spot it a mile away. After he passed away, I tried to interest a dealer in this guitar, but no one wanted to touch it.

It brought home the point that there are two types of guitars in this world: investments and players. You have a couple of options - you could go the whole nine yards and drain your bank account. Or, you could scrape and level the area, use some filler and tint, then overspray. If this guitar is an investment, etc. go for the high end. But, if you’re going to keep it and play it, take a shot at it and go for the home brew repair.

I know what my friend Larry Fox would have done. He would have repaired it and been proud of it. Why not go for it? And, If your repair isn’t quite perfect, you can always develop a tall tale of how the previous owner tried to repair it and didn’t quite get it right (but you got a bargain). Fox loved his guitar. At its heart it was a 1934 Martin, despite its less than perfect pedigree.

Don’t fret over the right decision. It’s a guitar. It’s meant to make music and not just be a pretty ornament. And you do know that folks are paying big bucks for relic’ing jobs on new instruments, right?

Best,

Rick

[kmckenna45]

Very true. This guitar is a "player", so I will take your advice to heart. Thanks!