#1
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Bending Iron Pipe
I am attempting to build a bending iron that involves using the electric charcoal starter method:
http://soundsalon.com/Make_a_Bending_Iron.html I have a problem with finding a two inch pipe suitable for the job. My first question is, between steel, aluminum, and copper, which is the best choice of pipe material? My second question is where do I find a pipe like that? I have looked at Home Depot and Lowes, and they only sell pipes at that diameter in a 10 foot length. Thank You. |
#2
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In the past I used a short piece of scaffolding tube. 2" diameter galvanised steel. It also comes in aluminium. Either would do.
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#3
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I snatched a 5" copper pipe from a Plumber buddies junk pile. He said it was worth a few bucks in scrap so I bought him a nice beer.
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#4
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How about a visit to a junk yard with a hacksaw and getting a 6" to 12" length of robust exhaust tube? Maybe two pieces, one inside the other, if it looks a bit flimsy.
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#5
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yeah might have to go to the junk yard. hopefully there will be some decent resources to retrieve that pipe if they haven't salvaged it yet
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#6
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Scrap yard is your best bet. I made one using soldering iron a piece of chromed copper pipe, that was part of a towel rail.
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#7
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Quote:
You should be able to buy what you want used from a scrap yard or new from dealers such as Metal By the Foot or Metal Cut to Length, or any retail steel service centers in your area. |
#8
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does anyone use a 1'' diameter pipe b/c of venetian cutaways. I just measured my cutaway's smallest diameter, and the 2'' will be too big. A smaller diameter pipe would fit the cutaway, but is it possible to bend the rest of the guitar with a smaller diameter. Oh yeah...the back and sides are padauk, a well known wood known to cracking.
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#9
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Look around for muffler shops. I got mine free from the scrap bin at Midas 3" diameter, fairly thick walled steel pipe. Too big to do venetian cutaways, but I don't much like them anyway, and it provides stable heat and better contact for the rest of the curves.
Another option would be to get a thinner walled 2" pipe, and smash it into an oval so you get a flatter surface for the wider bends, and tight radius for cutaways... plus makes it wide enough to get the charcoal starter into it. You can also turn the wood over and bend it "backward" (concave away from the pipe) to tighten bends beyond the diameter of your pipe. But it's more difficult to control, especially with a full width side versus just a binding strip or whatever. |
#10
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thanks dekutree64...it's nice to see pictures of this gizmo up and working. from someone who's used this charcoal starter method, how hot does the pipe get? yeah i've seen those egg shaped pipes online, but i don't really have any tool to press the tube with that much force...it's a good alternative to a simple pipe. this will be my first guitar, and putting a cutaway is making me a little nervous, especially with this padauk timber...we'll see how it goes!!
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#11
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I've used paduak on several instruments (including necks). I haven't found it particularly more difficult to bend than other woods.
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#12
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hey charles (u commented on my other thread i believe). (offtopic-->) is .1'' too thick to bend padauk or do you recommend something thinner. I've been research the threads here and not much is on padauk thickness. So far my top (spruce) is .1'' and i plan to do the back and sides .1''. do you recommend anything different or have advice with padauk?
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#13
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The pipe gets more than hot enough. I usually run the 500W charcoal starter at about 50-75% power on that dimmer switch dangling down from it. Although since I bend outside on the porch there, weather can be an issue. I generally don't bother trying below 40 degrees or so, especially if it's windy. Hard to tell if it's the pipe losing heat too fast, the wood not heating enough, or just my fingers and face freezing off and making me impatient, but I've tried it a couple times and had to bail before the job was done. Easier to just work on something else while waiting for a warmer day.
As for thickness, it depends on your building style... I'm tending toward thin sides lately, with small spruce side braces to strengthen them a bit and catch any cracks before they spread too far. But other builders focus on making the sides super stiff and massive, sometimes laminating two layers to get even thicker than you can bend in solid wood. .1" is definitely on the thick side of what is possible. Probably around .085" would be a good middle ground for a rather hard wood like padauk. I'd most likely be in the .070-.080" range, depending on how it feels and the size of the guitar. Also, sand/scrape it thinner in the cutaway area to help make the tight bend. |
#14
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Basically, what dekutree64 said. Depending on the extremity of the cutaway bend, maybe thin the relevant area down to .06ish.
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#15
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thanks guys!!! i can't begin to explain how helpful u all are on this forum
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