#16
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
That adds up Charles. Now the pickguard wood area makes sense. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'll scrape away a small area of the sound hole edge and take another photo. |
#18
|
|||
|
|||
Scraped an area under the fretboard extension. Not conclusive.
I'll treat it as ply and go very careful. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Hi Jon, It seems (thanks Charles) that the teak colour of the body top is aged yellowed clearcoat over bare spruce. So I probably dont have stain to deal with. I tried rubbing acrylic thinners on the area that was under the pickguard, which definitely has a clear coat over it , as there is a small chip out of clear lacquer on its non- yellowed surface. However there was no effect with the thinner. Do you know if poly clear was used around 1970 by Japanese builders, in this case, Suzuki ? Or is it just the age of the clear acrylic or nitro clearcoat thats at play here? |
#20
|
|||
|
|||
|
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Hi again Charles, Im pretty certain the top is ply, but there's more top spruce "meat" then anticipated. Maybe there was more spruce around in 1970 ! Also, Im fairly certain the top has just yellowed as you thought, but still unable to be sure if its poly or acrylic lacquer. I think though, that its hardened, aged acrylic lacquer. Anyway, in the photo ( I hope appears here), this is where I'm at. Scraping done initially, starting under the pickguard to get an indea of the clearcoat depth. You can see where the bare spruce has been revealed there, which is unstained. Now sanding all the top (after the scraping of a lot of clearcoat)with 320 grit, and in spots starting to just touch the spruce. Assuming I get the whole top back to bare spruce, my question is : when do think I should I glue the bridge on ? 1.After I stain and clearcoat with the bridge area masked off, or 2. glue the bridge on before staining and clearcoating the bodytop, with the bridge itself masked off ?Cut the lacquer around the bridge with a scalpel later ? |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
I have been gluing the bridge down before finishing for my last few guitars. I have a consistent and successful method of masking and leveling around the bridge.
__________________
http://victoryguitarshop.com/ |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I like it Pete. Simple, clever. |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
And Pete, could you expand on your refinishing methods generally ?
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
My method took 20 years to evolve. I don't do wet sanding or use a buffing wheel. It takes me probably 4 hours to get a gloss level surface. I make sure my wood surfaces are as level as possible, which is difficult sometimes because you don't always know where the hills and valleys are until you get the surface to shine. I don't do any initial pore filling. Once I start getting some Nitro or Shellac spayed on I sand with 120 3M Stikit Gold on a somewhat hard block and look for the shiny low spots. I then use an Airbrush to fill the valleys. I put on more finish and then repeat the process. Once I am satisfied with the build and level of the finish I start sanding with 220 on a firm foam block, then repeat with all grits up until 800. 1800 MicroMesh on a foam block and then I used liquid medium buffing compound on a cloth rag and start buffing, you can get quite a shine up until this point. I don't usually use fine compound as I like a mirror finish but I like it to have a warm glow to it. To end up with perfectly consistent reflected contours in the guitar really makes it look great. Here is my most recent spray job, it is Nitro. https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=607083
__________________
http://victoryguitarshop.com/ |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The bridge has an edge micro routed around the border on the underside to allow it to sit over the finish edge, it gives a flawless surface. Be super careful if using a razor blade on the top when marking bridge edges, any cutting by accident into the spruce becomes a zipper line for tear here under tension at a later date Your biggest decision I think is are you staining the top and clear coating or mixing colour into the first few layers of clear. I advise option 2 Steve
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thanks Pete for the comprehensive reply. Regarding your recent build and spray job, to quote Dumber (almost) " I am not worthy !". Beautiful work ! |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Thanks Steve. I have 2 x Taylor guitars. So that"s how they do it ! Re the stain, I was leaning towards spray shellac with a weak golden teak spirit stain mixed in. I was thinking Id seal coat the top first with a coat of unstained shellac (?). |
#29
|
|||
|
|||
Sounds workable
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
Sanding a cheap laminate guitar
Quote:
https://www.facebook.com/richardbruc...AWBXzYt8vX8ndl |