#46
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Well... there's that... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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"Lift your head and smile at trouble. You'll find happiness someday." |
#47
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Just my 2cents
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#48
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Pre-truss rod Martins
Have owned several pre-69,(no TR), Martins and have never had a problem with any.
My main gigging guitar in the 70's and early 80's was a 67 D-28. 5 nights a week for years in all kinds of places. Never an issue. |
#49
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#50
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Rick Ruskin Lion Dog Music - Seattle WA |
#51
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Living in a climate like Chicago where the temps can get as high as 100F and as low as 70 degrees below cold and huge short term swings, the relief on this neck varies only ever so slightly. Never gets too high or too low. My other guitars with adjustable TR's need adjustment at least once a season. Are there any other popular brands that don't have adjustable neck relief?
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Assuming is not knowing. Knowing is NOT the same as understanding. There is a difference between compassion and wisdom, however compassion cannot supplant wisdom, and wisdom can not occur without understanding. facts don't care about your feelings and FEELINGS ALONE MAKE FOR TERRIBLE, often irreversible DECISIONS |
#52
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Martin non-adjustable necks
We have 2 Martin 0018s in the family. My wife has a 1966 and I have a 1948. As you may have seen in previous posts, neither of these have truss rods. I can tell you that after all those years, both instruments necks have not changed. They are just about perfect. My wife's is original but I lower the saddle height on mine a few years ago. Both instruments play beautifully. Look after your instruments, keep them in their cases and they should stay great for years.
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#53
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Though this is a zombie thread from 2017-2018, both of your guitars have truss rods; neither have adjustable truss rods perhaps you meant to say. Welcome to the forum. It’s nice to have more vintage Martin players around. My 3 Martins from 1936-1937 all have perfect relief and no buzzing.
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#54
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A ‘72 D28 I bought new didn’t have ANY relief in the neck (but I didn’t know about such things) and last time I looked (a friend owns it now) it had developed almost enough.
That experience says to me they are pretty stable but there’s an upside to having some control over them. The ‘06 mod V Martin I play now has the single action truss rod and it never needs adjusting. I have set up more than a thousand guitars and a few (I could count on one hand) needed a double action rod. Relief is not something that accepts rules very well in my experience. Different playing styles can require different relief and I‘ve set up guitars that worked best anywhere from dead straight to having significant relief, so I like the control. Regarding using truss rods to adjust action - there’s a small range of relief that works “just fine” for most players and if using that to tame seasonal belly swelling and flattening make someone’s life easier it’s ok with me. Swapping saddles is still a better idea. |
#55
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Fret buzz could be caused by a raised fret. Use a fret rocker to locate the raised fret. Tap raised fret back into the fretboard. No more buzz.
I have fixed many of my guitars with fret buzz by simply tapping the popped up fret down. |
#56
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I think I’ve had my truss rod tweaked on every guitar I’ve ever owed, not often, but at least once. I’ve had nuts and saddles tweaked on the same guitars, so it was nice to have a TR adjustment as an additional option. I believe it’s possible to build a neck that never needs adjustment. However, given how frequently we hear about guitars arriving with manufacturing issues of all stripes, I don’t expect all necks will arrive with perfect relief. And as long as necks are made from wood, I think there is a reasonable expectation that they might “move” a bit over time. It also seems like every player does not like exactly the same relief. With no truss rod, you get what you get. Having a truss rod is something I like to have.
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#57
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Mines got no truss rod and its also got no apostrophes. Works just fine.
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______________________________________ Naples, FL 1972 Martin D18 (Kimsified, so there!) Alvarez Yairi PYM70 Yamaha LS-TA with sunburst finish Republic parlor resonator Too many ukeleles |
#58
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The thing about this thread is that it's combining several issues that are unrelated. Truss rod or T-bar have NOTHING to do with neck re-sets. A neck re-set is needed because the BODY of the guitar changed and moved, throwing off the geometry of the neck/body relationship. "Neck" re-sets should be called "body" re-sets.
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#59
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As an aside, the need for neck re-sets on many guitars is a very well known issue. I finding it quite surprising that few of the major manufacturers have really done anything to address the underlying problem, instead focusing almost solely on remedying the problem after it occurs. (Some have chosen to ignore the issue from a warranty perspective - if/when it happens, it's the owner's problem.) Many individual luthiers are attempting to address the underlying problem by changing their designs. As one example, the guitar I'm currently making has double sides and deep solid linings. The side assembly is very, very stiff. I'll know in about 20 to 30 years if it is successful in preventing the need for neck re-sets. Other luthiers have their own approaches for improving the longevity of their instruments. |
#60
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^^^
My point was that the "neck" has NOT changed, the body has...nothing more.
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Avian Skylark Pono 0000-30 Gardiner Parlor Kremona Kiano Ramsay Hauser Cordoba C10 Chris Walsh Archtop Gardiner Concert Taylor Leo Kottke Gretsch 6120 Pavan TP30 Aria A19c Hsienmo MJ Ukuleles: Cocobolo 5 string Tenor Kanilea K3 Koa Kanilea K1 Walnut Tenor Kala Super Tenor Rebel Super Concert Nehemiah Covey Tenor Mainland Mahogany Tenor Mainland Cedar/Rosewood Tenor |