#16
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This is fantastic. Thank you so much for sharing!
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Hope. Love. Music. Collings|Bourgeois |
#17
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Very interesting.
Is there any science to knowing that the two layers is enough to Undo the buzz in all cases, across, all string gauges? It's possible an optimized form of this changes the number of layers according to the string gauge. Would love to hear Erlewine's thoughts on this. Definitely very interesting. I'd also add - you want to ensure neck angle / truss rod is set perfectly before starting this.
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#18
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Quote:
I don't think string gauge matters much because the lowest point is still the nut slot bottom regardless. The point about neck angle/truss rod makes a lot of sense. But this assumes the guitar wasn't buzzing before, so any new buzz is created only by this single variable (nut slot height). Also from experience it's easy enough to to discern buzz originated from too low nut slots. It has a specific 'tone' and 'pattern' to it. With everything considered, I think the best method isn't playing and checking for buzz, as I demonstrated in the video. I believe using 'press 3rd fret and tap above 1st fretwire' until there's no audible 'click' with the tapes would be best. |
#19
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With the tape, the 'audible clicks' aren't going to as easy to hear. I like your 1st method best. You are adjusting the nut to prevent buzzing, and you are using buzzing as your feedback mechanism to stop lowering the nut slot. Just makes sense to me.
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OM-28 Marquis (2005) Kenny Hill Player (nylon) Gibson AJ (2012) Rogue Resonator (kindling) |
#20
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That's really quite clever. I've not seen this method before.
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#21
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That’s incredibly clever!
Do you have any similarly clever tips for setting saddle height? |
#22
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The method I use is slow and tedious. I get the action relatively decent that most players would be fine with. Then Under standard tuning tension I Play the guitar for a few days. Then I begin the custom tuning the action process. Usually in the morning with excellent natural light coming through the window I sit and play stopping occasionally assessing one string at a time with reading glasses on. I hold guitar up and looking across the first fret I physically see how far above the fret each string is. If string is a tad high I will loosen the string and give the nut slot a few swipes or maybe more with the file depending on what I feel it needs. Back and forth I work slowly on each string, Playing the guitar as I go. Occasionally I think it is perfect. But then I put the guitar down for a spell. Then pick it up and play and realize no it could us a few more adjustments. I have been doing it that way for 40 years on hundreds of vintage and the handful of custom acoustic flat tops I have crafted. Not every string is the same thickness. Not every string is the same exact tension. Not every string vibrates the same. Because of variables with strings,The guitar neck, radius , relief. Not every string will be the same distance off the first fret. I am sure using a feeler gauge and other methods would speed up the process. But I am never in a hurry anyway. I savor getting it just right regardless how long it takes. Sage
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Sage Runner |
#23
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Nut blanks and pre made nuts are cheap. You could always experiment on one and put your original nut back in if it's a failure, back where you started and no great loss.
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#24
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Can you hear the buzz on the high strings as clearly?
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#25
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I would probably add another piece of tape across the 3 bass strings to get a little higher action on the bass side, that feels a little more natural to me. But I shouldn't be giving advice because I mess up this adjustment at least 50% of the time I attempt it I just let my luthier handle it because he never misses.
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#26
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This 'use of tape' method is still 'by applied guesswork!'& i would NOT recommend it as a Quicker easier & most accurate method to lower the action at the nut!
Not much room for 'error' etc.& tedious to do in the end etc.=There IS no short cut! |