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  #1  
Old 11-28-2022, 09:25 AM
PineMarten PineMarten is offline
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Default Kalamazoo archtop tailpiece failure

Today I went to play my old Kalamazoo archtop, only to discover that the tailpiece has sheared while it was sitting in the case. Fortunately it hasn't marked the top or caused any other damage, just the tailpiece.
I'm trying to decide on my best approach to get it going again. As a vintage instrument my instinct would be to keep it as close to original as I can. But I'm not aware of any modern reproductions of this style tailpiece so that would mean quite a bit of searching to find an old one. Alternatively I could use something like a Kluson reproduction that would be sympathetic but not identical, and probably wouldn't fit with the original position of the endpin. I have another guitar to play in the meantime so I don't need to rush into a quick fix, at least. OTOH these are at the less valuable player end of 30s archtop, so perhaps going to great lengths to keep it original (rather than just neat and playable) might be overkill.

https://ibb.co/74x4sSx
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Kalamazoo KG-21 1936
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2022, 11:25 AM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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I don't see the break in your picture but it looks like if one of those metal bars broke, they could be replicated fairly easy if a replacement cant be found.

My first choice would be to find an original or replica replacement. In the meantime find something that will work and install it until the replacement is found.
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2022, 11:46 AM
PineMarten PineMarten is offline
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This one shows where it broke a little more clearly - the front edge of the right-angled section at the end has torn at the bend.

https://ibb.co/XL6NF44

I can see some tailpieces that look reasonably period appropriate, similar to what would be fitted on an L50 for example. But the endin on this guitar is positioned relatively close to the top of the guitar and not all of them would fit with the endpin in place.
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Also double bass, electric bass, cittern, mandolin...
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  #4  
Old 11-29-2022, 11:47 AM
OVG OVG is offline
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I have definitely seen that style of tailpiece on a few different guitars from that era. I think it was also used on some Regal models? You have a decent shot at finding another one, don't give up yet.

You could also try some kind of repair, by welding on a piece of reinforcement to anchor the strings.
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  #5  
Old 11-29-2022, 12:41 PM
PineMarten PineMarten is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVG View Post
I have definitely seen that style of tailpiece on a few different guitars from that era. I think it was also used on some Regal models? You have a decent shot at finding another one, don't give up yet.

You could also try some kind of repair, by welding on a piece of reinforcement to anchor the strings.
I've seen a couple of old Regal and Harmony tailpieces of similar style on eBay, and there's a modern Gretsch tailpiece used on one of their resonators that's of that style too. But so far the spacing of the legs at the mounting points seems different from mine on every one I've seen, so it would still leave visible screw holes, and at that point I might be as well to use something more easily available.
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Also double bass, electric bass, cittern, mandolin...
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2022, 12:46 PM
OVG OVG is offline
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What about welding or pop riveting on another strip to anchor the strings and reinforce the cross piece?
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  #7  
Old 12-01-2022, 07:09 AM
PineMarten PineMarten is offline
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Thinking about it some more, I'm not equipped for metalworking, it's somewhat outside of what most luthiers and repair guys around here would usually take on and would probably get quite expensive if I can't do it myself. Finding the right vintage parts online also seems challenging, especially with international shipping (I'm in the UK and older US parts aren't common here).
So I think I'm going to go ahead and fit a new tailpiece, probably one of these.
https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk/har...ailpiece-p4413
It's a style that existed in the 30s, and if I get it in nickel I should be able to dull down the surface a little so it doesn't look glaringly new. Although I slightly prefer the look of the Kluson #7 tailpiece, but I can't find it in Nickel at present.
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Eastman E1OM 2021
Cedar/Rosewood Parlour 2003 (an early build by my luthier brother)
Also double bass, electric bass, cittern, mandolin...
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  #8  
Old 12-01-2022, 08:50 AM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Looks liike a reasonable alternative as long as it doesn't interfere with your endpin, although you're probably capable of grinding or drilling if required.

Save your old tailpiece to sell with the guitar should that time come or if you find a metal working hobbyist or banjo luthier to repair it.
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  #9  
Old 12-01-2022, 09:02 AM
JonWint JonWint is offline
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Looks like chrome or nickel-plated brass. May be able to solder it without damaging the plating.

Could also be TIG welded (brass filler) but would require replating. My TIG goes down to 5 amps. Replating complicates the repair.

If it were mine, I'd try soldering first. If insufficient strength results from solder, then replace the failed flanged piece with stainless steel and polish to similar finish.
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  #10  
Old 12-01-2022, 10:02 PM
Sage Runner Sage Runner is offline
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Pine. Those Kalamazoos a some of coolest Guitars on the planet. I’ve owned several Arch tops and half dozen Zoo flat tops in past. If it were mine, for the time being, I would find a temporary replacement that had same foot print. Then regularly keep a lookout on EBay,Reverb for a Old exact replacement to turn up. Like you, definitely would desire to keep it original. As other’s brought up a Repair may do the trick. Hope it works out either way. Sage
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  #11  
Old 12-02-2022, 08:45 PM
OVG OVG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineMarten View Post
Thinking about it some more, I'm not equipped for metalworking, it's somewhat outside of what most luthiers and repair guys around here would usually take on
Should be quick work for your local gunsmith, they deal in small metal repairs all the time.
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  #12  
Old 12-11-2022, 10:10 AM
PineMarten PineMarten is offline
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In the end I took the simplest option and fitted a new tailpiece. I filed a little off at the bottom to avoid the endpin, and did the vinegar fume trick to mellow the new bright nickel plating a touch. I feel it looks fitting enough, the only thing I intend to change is to swap out the ugly modern crosshead screws for some with slotted round heads. If I do want to restore the original in future, I've kept it, and two of the three new screw holes are under where the legs of the original were so there would only be one visible hole to fill and touch up.
The sound hasn't changed perceptibly, though I did realise that the bridge base has been reversed for the whole time I've owned this guitar, as it's slightly tapered in thickness and the thicker side was under the high strings. Reversing that has let me get the action slightly better across the strings, which is nice. I'm trying 80/20 mediums again too, as I can never quite decide if I like those or the Retro Monels better on this guitar.


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Kalamazoo KG-21 1936
Eastman E1OM 2021
Cedar/Rosewood Parlour 2003 (an early build by my luthier brother)
Also double bass, electric bass, cittern, mandolin...
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  #13  
Old 12-11-2022, 03:19 PM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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It looks great on there, like it was made for the guitar.

Your guitar, looks very similar to a Gibson, L-37. Can you tell me if it has a flat back and is about 14 3/4" wide?
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  #14  
Old 12-11-2022, 04:17 PM
PineMarten PineMarten is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fathand View Post
It looks great on there, like it was made for the guitar.

Your guitar, looks very similar to a Gibson, L-37. Can you tell me if it has a flat back and is about 14 3/4" wide?
It is 14 3/4“ wide, but the back has a fairly pronounced arch. I think these have the same outline as the L37, but the top and back are thin solid plates pressed into an arch, rather than carved like the full-fat Gibson models.
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Kalamazoo KG-21 1936
Eastman E1OM 2021
Cedar/Rosewood Parlour 2003 (an early build by my luthier brother)
Also double bass, electric bass, cittern, mandolin...
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  #15  
Old 12-11-2022, 06:55 PM
Fathand Fathand is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PineMarten View Post
It is 14 3/4“ wide, but the back has a fairly pronounced arch. I think these have the same outline as the L37, but the top and back are thin solid plates pressed into an arch, rather than carved like the full-fat Gibson models.
The L-37 uses the same outline as the L-00 but with archtop and flat back. Looks like your Kalamazoo is another derivative. I have an L-00 mold and template so I may try to do an L-37.
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