#1
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Installing LR Baggs
Getting ready to install an LR Baggs Element UST with soundhole mounted volume control. Will need to remove existing strap peg and drill hole for endpin. Other than being VERY careful with the drill, any other tips? Is it ok to put a drop of super glue to attach the volume control?
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1972 Yamaha FG200 My 1st guitar 2003 Yamaha LL500 2007 Larrivee JCL 40th Anniversary Edition 1998 Larrivee OM05-MT All Mahogany 1998 Larrivee D09 Brazilian “Flying Eagle” 1998 Larrivee D10 Brazilian "Flying Eagle" 1990 Goodall Rosewood Standard https://soundcloud.com/247hoopsfan |
#2
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I'd recommend that you place a little piece of tape over the wood where you will be drilling, just to help prevent the finish from chipping. And drill slowly. Good luck, and let us know how it comes together.
Pete
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Acoustic guitars: Larrivee L-10 (with Fishman Aura Pro preamp system) Guild JF30 (with Fishman Matrix Infinity) Takamine Santa Fe Simon and Patrick Songsmith Parlor Simon and Patrick Showcase rosewood (with LR Baggs Anthem SL) Ovation Celebrity Limited Edition CP2001 |
#3
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Do not drill out that hole. It should be reamed out. Even with a reamer, you can have finish trouble. With a drill, I can almost guarantee it.
I recomend taking it to a luthier/tech. You could buy the reamer, but it is over $50.
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“Reason is itself a matter of faith. It is an act of faith to assert that our thoughts have any relation to reality at all.” ― G.K. Chesterton |
#4
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What kind of guitar is it going into?
Taylor and Larrivee both have the hole drilled to 1/2" for you. All you have to do is take out the plug/strap button. Otherwise, have a luthier ream you a new one (pun intended). |
#5
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yes... don't try to just drill the hole. It will most likely end badly. There are special reamers made just for this process. Unless we are talking about a POS guitar just take it in and have it professionally installed.
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#6
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LR Baggs
It's going into a Yamaha LL500, very nice guitar. It has a factory pin in the heel so I think it probably needs to be reamed. Sounds like most recommend having a luthier do it, so I will take it in.
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1972 Yamaha FG200 My 1st guitar 2003 Yamaha LL500 2007 Larrivee JCL 40th Anniversary Edition 1998 Larrivee OM05-MT All Mahogany 1998 Larrivee D09 Brazilian “Flying Eagle” 1998 Larrivee D10 Brazilian "Flying Eagle" 1990 Goodall Rosewood Standard https://soundcloud.com/247hoopsfan |
#7
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Quote:
If it's just one guitar you're doing, that may be your best bet (safe rather than sorry). I have done a number of them, so for me the do-it-yourself method seemed the best. Granted all of my installs were in sub $1K imports as well.... |
#8
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If you do decide to drill the hole yourself, please do NOT use a standard drill bit for wood or metal. I've heard of an instance in which a repairperson used a standard drill bit and, when it expanded due to the heat of friction, it locked up in the tail block and ripped the tail of the guitar apart.
Use a step drill bit or a hand reamer. |
#9
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You'll get lots of stuff about drilling the hole ... it's easy with the correct tools so I won't get into it. No, don't use superglue ... it comes with double sided tape that will hold it very well. Just clean the area with some naptha (Ronson lighter fluid is naptha) before you stick in on. Dry fit it to make sure you got the position right and that it doesn't interfere with bracing. Do the same when you install the battery bag.
Be VERY careful about drilling the hole in the bridge slot ... measure twice ... then measure again. Be sure the bottom of the slot is completely free of all debris. Use a 1/4" dowel with a piece of tape on the end to pass through the endpin jack hole, insert it into the endpin jack and pull back out ... makes that little job easier than trying stick your arm into the guitar. I make a little right angle feeler out of paper clip to measure the thickness of the end block to set the inner washer and nut into place. Be sure to use the little clips to secure wires into place when you're done. That about does it ... |
#10
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FWIW... I use an Irwin Unibit for drilling out endpin holes. I've never had a problem. That said, if you are the least bit uncomfortable with any part of the process, there are professionals who can do a beautiful job.
Ed |
#11
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I use one, too. Just a caution, it must be SHARP ... like new. I use it just to get the hole started (down to about 1/8" deep) and then switch to an auger bit with double spurs (which must also be very sharp). Proceeding slowly using only light pressure on the bit it does a very clean job. I have bits dedicated to this task only that'll be sharp forever.
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#12
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Thanks
Thanks for all the good information.
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1972 Yamaha FG200 My 1st guitar 2003 Yamaha LL500 2007 Larrivee JCL 40th Anniversary Edition 1998 Larrivee OM05-MT All Mahogany 1998 Larrivee D09 Brazilian “Flying Eagle” 1998 Larrivee D10 Brazilian "Flying Eagle" 1990 Goodall Rosewood Standard https://soundcloud.com/247hoopsfan |
#13
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Quote:
I go all the way with the unibit. Agreed on the sharpness (and having a dedicated bit for it is a step in the right direction.) It takes a steady hand and patience to do it all slow enough. You need to find that balance between slight forward pressure and letting the tool do the cutting. Going a little off axis half way through, can screw up the process, also. Ed |
#14
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When you drill the small hole that the actual pickup goes thru it MUST be drilled at an angle....if the element pickup is in a bind or is bend it won't work
correctly. it tells you this in the directions but we don't all read directions.......Don't Ask Me How I Know (Bobby Pinson)....
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