#1
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What's wrong with my G-string?
OK, so I intentionally chose a "thought-provoking" thread title. Perhaps it'll generate some laughs.
Seriously, when playing my Cordoba C7, it seems that the "g" is always doing weird things and needs near-constant adjustment. Is this somewhat typical behavior for nylon guitars? OR Rather, is this indicative of cheap tuner hardware supplied on Cordoba guitars? Should I consider a tuner upgrade or learn to live with constant re-tuning? Thank you for the help.
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KR Aparicio AA100 Classical Spruce/IR Guild GAD-50e (meh) |
#2
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maybe describing what a "weird thing" is could help.
Jump sharp or flat? Detune slowly over the course of an hour of playing? Spontaneously catch fire and emit peacock-blue smoke? |
#3
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Quote:
I would begin by verifying that this effect persists after changing the G-string, and that the bridge knot is not slipping. I would further verify that the string is correctly secured to the plastic spool at the tuner. It is not uncommon that a string may have just enough *grip* around the tuner spool to remain in place, yet still be able to gradually *slip* about the spool in very small increments -- thus essentially unwinding itself very slowly. The effect is a string that seems to always go flat. The solution is a secure knot when the string is first wound upon the tuner spool. Lastly, it is possible that there is something wrong with the tuner itself. Check that the threads engage properly, and that the screw attaching the tuner knob to the spool shaft is secure. If all else fails, the tuner itself may need replacement. Last edited by Paultergeist; 01-11-2011 at 10:46 AM. |
#4
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Quote:
Some say that using a set with a wound G string will help, I'd consider taking it to a tech and having a compensated saddle made for it. My Pro R showed up with the action very high at the saddle, and it also had an arch (as you would expect from a saddle in a guitar with a radiused fingerboard) I sanded the bottom of the saddle, and carefully removed the "crown" on the top as well. There is still a bit of finickiness (is that a word?) in the G and B strings, but again, without a compensated saddle, it's almost to be expected. I'm going to work on it some more this afternoon
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"One small heart, and a great big soul that's driving" |
#5
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The 3rd string is the "tubbiest" sounding one and can be prone to intonation issues. This is because it has the largest diameter of the nylon strings.
The solutions are:
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#6
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My Taylor NS72 is the same. I think what you're getting at is that it will go sharp. Mine goes sharp as the string warms. All of the trebles do to some extent, but the g is the worst. In the morning it's really flat because I had to lower it the day before and forgot about it.
Erik
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"If we weren't all crazy, we would go insane." -Jimmy Buffett 2010 NS72CE 1969 Gibson J-50-D 1967 Martin d-12-35 Peavey Millenium 4 Bass http://www.youtube.com/user/partyofonemusic |
#7
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OK, my apologies--I'm try to be clearer:
The g-string seems to most often go a bit sharp. No, there are no flames or anything quite so glamorous. I'm having to constantly re-tune. Like, between every single song at least. I hadn't really thought about the "warming up factor" I'll have to give that hypothesis a test. I had looked into the "composite" g sets this morning and ordered a couple of those in order to give 'em a try. I had NOT looked into the carbons. Thanks for the suggesttions I am about 98% sure that it is NOT a mechanical string slippage issue. I'll look into the compensated saddle. So, any other thoughts about the tuners, or is it more likely a string problem? Would humidity (or lack thereof) be a factor? It's been mighty dry...
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KR Aparicio AA100 Classical Spruce/IR Guild GAD-50e (meh) |
#8
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That does help.
Going sharp can indicate "warming up" or sometimes, just a bum string. Mechanical tuner issues or a sloppy stringup usually result in slippage, which usually leads to the string going flat. How far sharp are we talking here? Is it one of those things that happens all of a sudden, or do you become aware of it after playing a while and your ears just can't take it anymore? You could also have a string that's binding up in the nut slot...how's the intonation on that string? |
#9
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I would think temp would be a much greater variable than humidity.
If it were me, I'd start with the saddle.....if you've got someone reasonable nearby that can fix a compensated saddle for you, it might take care of it. Also, the action may be high and you may be "pulling" it sharp as you play. Get it to a good tech that knows classical instruments and see what they think. I'm guessing you'll end up in a much better place....
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"One small heart, and a great big soul that's driving" |
#10
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The 3rd string was problematic for me as well. Going to the Oasis GPX carbon fiber strings solved this beautifully. The G string is problematic for many, this is why you may hear about some players buying singles of strings rather than sets.
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Lisa Phoenix Guitar Co. Custom Classical Guitar Rainsong Shorty FLE Pre Peavey Cargo |
#11
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partyofone's got it...G's go sharp with temp variance. A wound G will stop it but often the nut slot is too large to accept one.
Last edited by john bange; 01-11-2011 at 05:34 PM. Reason: spelling |
#12
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The problem is most likely the nut. If the slot is too tight, it will gradually go sharp on you. Fairly common on inexpensive guitars.
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#13
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I think we just need to accept that nylon strings are more temperamental than steel ones. They usually need tuning when you start to play and often need retuning (often more than once) whilst you are playing. For me it's a price worth paying.
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#14
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thats it...
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#15
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Too "LARGE" to accept a smaller string??? How could that be?
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