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  #1  
Old 09-20-2020, 05:45 PM
viento viento is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: northern Germany (Dutch border) + south of Spain
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Default Making a pinless bridge

I finally wanted to make a pinless bridge and used "Crelicam Ebony" for it, the same wood as the fingerboard.

The difficulty for me was to make the channels for the strings coming up diagonally from the back to the bone insert.

I disassembled an old soldering iron whose soldering tip was about 6mm thick and therefore ideal for a corresponding drill with which I could use at an angle from above.

From the back I made the holes for the strings with a 2.5mm drill, small enough that the "end knobs" of the strings cannot slip into the bridge.
By the way, there is enough space for the bridge insert at the front, although the perspective of the last photo seems to shorten the distance on the upper one a bit.

If anyone is interested, here are photos.

From the side


above view


two copies - the lower first one seemed a tad too small for me
- the fishglue should hold it well so that the string tension doesn't catapult the "good piece" into my face ...

Both are approx. 8-9mm thick and weigh 45g and 46.5g respectively
I hope these weights still let the top vibrate as it should ...
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Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes

Last edited by viento; 09-20-2020 at 05:53 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-20-2020, 06:42 PM
RonMay RonMay is offline
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Posts: 133
Default

Nicely done Viento.
My mid to late 60s Regal Jumbo Western uses a pin less bridge.
I been finding it difficult to find one since the old one ripped the bottom off where the strings go in .

The rest of the bridge stayed on the soundboard.



Yours looks similar to an Ovation bridge which have an unfortunate history of breaking in the back because the thickness of the wall on the top of the counter sunk holes , like yours shows, was just not thick enough to withstand the pulling force of the strings on the leverage force of the saddle.

But if you use medium light to light strings it should be fine.

https://i.imgur.com
/iLgB4jr.jpg



The thread of my "rejuvination" project:

https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=592168

Nice thinking out of the box.

Ron
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  #3  
Old 09-21-2020, 04:39 AM
viento viento is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: northern Germany (Dutch border) + south of Spain
Posts: 572
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Thanks, Ron,
I have an Ovation bridge on the shelf but donīt dare to use it because it is made of walnut and I guess thatīs a bit softer than Crelicam Ebony. Besides that it is just painted black - looking too cheap...that's why I made these bridges.
I also took two pieces of scrap wood and made a sample with fish glue . When cured, I couldnīt separate the two pieces with my hands. This strengthened my trust in its reliability.

__________________
Thanks!




Martin D28 (1973)
12-string cutaway ...finished ;-)
Hoyer 12-string (1965)
Yamaha FG-340 (1970)
Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980)
D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014)
and 4 electric axes

Last edited by viento; 09-21-2020 at 05:03 AM.
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  #4  
Old 09-21-2020, 08:55 AM
phavriluk phavriluk is offline
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Location: Granby, CT
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What a wonderful thing to share! Thanks very much.
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  #5  
Old 09-21-2020, 08:56 AM
RonMay RonMay is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phavriluk View Post
What a wonderful thing to share! Thanks very much.
Your welcome.

Ron
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