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#1
09-01-2020, 08:25 AM
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clamp in the mold
Anyone have any methods for top (or bottom) clamping inside the mold? My first build I used a cardboard cutaway on the inside so spool clamps worked fine when I glued the top and bottom. This time I decided to use a stewmac mold, I like working out of it but didn't think in advance that i will have to remove it from the mold to use my spool clamps! That's what I'm going to do unless there is a better solution, and I don't really want to spend $400 on a bunch of cam clamps.
So I was going to clamp neck and tail block with a few cam clamps in the mold, then remove mold and then put spool clamps on, if I do it that way, that should not affect the squaring of the neck and tail block, correct? 
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#2
09-01-2020, 08:51 AM
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I used the same method with the spool clamps as you did for my first build ... After that I invested in a go bar deck (if you don't want to buy one there are lots of videos / articles on how to build your own).
The deck is very versatile and I find myself using it regularly for lots of different clamping jobs, I highly recommend one. Happy building! Nahil.
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#4
09-01-2020, 01:15 PM
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https://www.lmii.com/clamps-vises/25...mping-jig.html
This is the one that I got, the setup contains everything you except for the go bar rods. All in all it would work out cheaper than the Stewmac kit. I like the fact that it is fully adjustable so you can raise or lower the height to accommodate bracing the top/back or assembling them to the guitar sides. * Are we allowed to post links on this forum, I am new and wasn't sure.
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#6
09-02-2020, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
I've used go bars for four decades on a variety of home-made decks. One deck that I made used threaded rod and MDF. The go bars can exert considerable force on the MDF top and bottom. When it does so, I have found that a single layer of MDF, one for the top, one for the bottom, causes the top and bottom to arch. With go bars pushing on the top sheet of MDF, the top sheet deflects and doesn't stay flat. Not an issue. However, having the bottom sheet of MDF attached to the rods supporting the top sheet, the deflection of the top sheet also pulls on the rods and deflects the bottom sheet so that it is not flat. That is an issue if one wants to clamp something that is flat. I resolved the issue by using more than one sheet of MDF on top and bottom. Eventually, I went away from the portable versions and returned to a stationary one, between my bench top and the ceiling. To address different distances between the work to be clamped and the top support, I've approached it by having different length go bars - not difficult, or expensive to do - using gluing cauls of various thicknesses and by adding or removing an additional layer of MDF on the bottom. Have you found that during use there is deflection of the top or bottom sheets of the LMI kit?
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#7
09-02-2020, 12:44 PM
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..
. Last edited by charles Tauber; 09-03-2020 at 07:28 PM.
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#8
09-02-2020, 01:36 PM
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Can anyone comment on clamping tail and neck block, removing from the mold and then using spool clamps? I've seen this done before in some videos and it seems like it should not disrupt anything if done correctly.
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#9
09-03-2020, 02:23 AM
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Hi Charles,
The top of the deck (the upper MDF is 3/4 inch) also has a laminated brace (I believe its birch) running across the top at 45 degrees (connecting front left to back right rods). I have not had any problems as of yet and the brace seems to to do a good job and maintaining the stiffness and not allowing the top to flex. My bottom half of the deck also uses 3/4 inch MDF but with the brace so it can be laid flat. I use a sturdy flat 1 inch base that I place the whole deck on. Very happy with the results and haven't had any flexing or warping. I have used it for the past 2 years and so far so good. Last edited by Nahil.R; 09-03-2020 at 02:24 AM. Reason: Addition
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#10
09-03-2020, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
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#11
09-03-2020, 10:53 AM
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Hi Monts,
If you glue a top or back plate on then it's usually rigid enough not to move much when it's removed from the form. You can use a version of this notched board that hangs over the form sides and lets you apply rubber band force on the fingers to pull the cork padded arms down against the plate. I used to have a go bar setup made up from doubled 3/4" plates held with 1/2" all thread on each corner. To make it adjustable and cheap I cut 3/4" square bars from scrap stock and inserted sections of 1/4" all thread in a drilled hole and applied pressure by using a 1/4" wing nut against the end of the square rod. I found it took up more space than I could afford, so just use jury-rigged "clamping" methods like shown for the few acoustic guitars I make. The one key factor in any plate glue up is to be able to position the work easily and apply even clamping force quickly.  
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#13
09-03-2020, 07:29 PM
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Not while in the mold. I carefully mark the shape on the top (inside) and use a simple waist clamp cut from a scrap wood to spec. It holds the shape close enough, that you can accurately align the sides to the marking as you apply spool clamps. That will then hold the shape for glueing the bottom. Just have to be very careful not to over tighten clamps and warp sides. Or worse.
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#14
09-10-2020, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
You could also drill some holes in your mold for the spool clamps.
__________________
Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al
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#15
09-10-2020, 02:39 PM
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If you want to use spool clamps while the guitar is still in the mold, you can simply drill holes around the periphery and assemble the clamps through the holes. If the mold is full depth use a template to space the sides upward a bit for clearance. No need for extra clamps. . .
__________________
Cheers, Frank Ford
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