#16
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BobT (or anyone else), although I believe Turtle Wax will be safe to use on the nitro finish on my Strat, I just want to be sure because I believe that nitocellulose finishes are a little different than lacquers? (e.g. nitro being more porous?). In fact, because I have a lacquered maple neck/fretboard (don't think it's nitro also), I guess I MAY be able to use T-wax on the whole Strat.
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Tom '21 Martin D-18 Standard | '02 Taylor 814c | '18 Taylor 214ceDLX | '18 Taylor 150e-12 | '78 Ibanez Dread (First acoustic) | '08 CA Cargo | '02 Fender Strat American '57 RI My original songs |
#17
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Hmm......I guess it would just vother me to put car wax on one of my Taylors.
I know it's pretty much the same stuff as in many guitar Carnuba waxes, but the idea bothers me |
#18
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I use Ken Smith's Pro Guitar Polish on my Toyota 4Runner. It looks and sounds terrific.
Sorry for the cheap and distracting post.
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Mike Vintage Ibanez Dread Martin D28 Taylor 355 American Deluxe Power Telecaster Les Paul Deluxe |
#19
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Quote:
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“Reason is itself a matter of faith. It is an act of faith to assert that our thoughts have any relation to reality at all.” ― G.K. Chesterton |
#20
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Good ole beeswax works wonders on bare wood; most likely 'cause it has no additives that might soak in and tint the wood.
Products I have used and abused over the years: beeswax sexwax axewax legwax earwax skiwax old english lemon oil pledge and for the fretboard - nose oil (harvested from the fruitful area where nose meets cheek - dad always used nose oil to lube his fishing pole ferrules) current addiction: Ken Smith and Guitar Honey. I think one should shy away from using rubbing compound, but has anyone tried West Marine's Telflon Boat Wax? |
#21
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Quote:
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2005 Taylor 814CE-L10 1997 Taylor 710CE 2002 Taylor 310CE LTD 1987 Martin D-28 American Standard Fender Telecaster Fender Villager 12 String |
#22
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. . . yeah . . . what SteveS said . . .
I wouldn't pick on our friend Gordon, but I was never under the impression that Carnauba was abrasive. Gordon, sir, where did you find this info? Wax gets "applied" and then the Wax get buffed -- "Polish" on the other hand is supposed to clean the finish and can be abrasive. However, Polish suited for fine wood finishes is never more than "micro abrasive" and that is very very low on any abrasion scale. I do stand corrected, though in that the PRS Product I was referring to was PRS "Polish" and is probably micro abrasive. From violins to pianos, to guitars, Carnauba has been considered to be a premium wax to protect fine wooden finishes for decades, which is what wax does, and it will build up. As a matter of fact, many wooden instrument owners and players "want" that build up, because a fine wax will add to the finish in it's own way. This may have been more prevalent in the days when the "French finish" was more extensive, but perhaps today's modern super wammy finishes need less care? Now there are two types of Carnauba, the paste wax typically from Spain, and the emulsified liquids like Dunlop's product. Ummmmmm, naturally I respect what my Uncle Bob says, but I would still feel kinda weird using certain automotive products with unknown additives on my pride and joy Taylor. Yes, a "little" Lemon oil or neat’s-foot oil once in a while is what I do to. But looky here...I use both to "soften" leather, so I would tend to think there is some kind of a Red Flag issue there of using it too often. I chew the end of a toothpick to soften it a little before I use it to clean my frets. Also, I wax my Taylor and my classical once a month. I want that protection on my finishes. Ta Ta For Now, grm Last edited by gmccall; 02-14-2003 at 12:15 PM. |
#23
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grm,
I don't think carnuba is abrasive at all. I just stated that it cleaned more by friction. Similar to getting a dry clean non-abrasive cloth and rubbing away fingerprints but moreso. Virtuoso's website goes more into details about this. Since my sweat is very toxic and dries to a sandpaper finish , I'm probably a bit paranoid in using carnuba since I'm afraid my dried sweat (not the carnuba) will scratch the finish when it is being removed using carnuba. The Virtuoso stuff supposedly breaks down any organic substance. Seems to work for me. I too wax my Taylors once a month which is why I was a bit concerned about build-up. Virtuoso claims no build up. Probably not an issue especially if you only wax once or twice a year like BobT mentioned. Thanks everyone for the support, GL |
#24
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Once a year? Twice a year? Even once a month?
Man, I only wax my guitars once in 2-3 years! In the last 48 hours, I changed strings on all my guitars and waxed four of them ... that's enough for me. |
#25
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fingerboard lube
I use Fast-Fret before every gig--helps even Elixirs last longer, play more slickly, and keeps the fretboard in good shape. It comes in a little plastic can--the wood-handled applicator has about a year's worth impregnated in it, and the little flannel cloth that comes with it is great for wiping down the strings and fingerboard. Keeps a lot of crud off the strings.
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Sandy http://www.sandyandina.com ------------------------- Gramann Rapahannock, 7 Taylors, 4 Martins, 2 Gibsons, 2 V-A, Larrivee Parlour, Gretsch Way Out West, Fender P-J Bass & Mustang, Danelectro U2, Peavey fretless bass, 8 dulcimers, 2 autoharps, 2 banjos, 2 mandolins, 3 ukes I cried because I had no shoes.....but then I realized I won’t get blisters. |
#26
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I like to use a carnauba wax on my guitars. My fave was Tres Amigos, but now they're long gone I use either Gerlitz or Dunlop 65 Carnauba. About every other string change.
The Dunlop fingerboard care products do nicely, as does Guitar Honey. I will glady trade a little build-up for the protection of the wax--I accidently got some over-spray of "Spray-n-Wash" on a guitar and it nearly went through the finish--left little dimples where the droplets hit. Bill |
#27
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Thanks, Uncle Bob!!
As for me, I think I'll stick with the damp rag.
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jonesbrass 610e, 914CE-L1, 354-CE LTD (Maple!), baby, Taylor Classic Electric Guitar, Vox AC30CC2, Fender J-Bass, Carvin AD100D, Takamine Classical, Cerveny CFB-653-5IMX F tuba, Conn 2J CC tuba Gone but not forgotten: 810e, AB-1, 414-CE, Epi Les Paul Custom Flametop, Miraphone 188 |
#28
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I've used woodwind bore oil on all of my unfinished fretboards for 20+ years...in fact I still have the original 3 oz bottle with about a half oz left in it! I just draw a thin line down the board and rub with my palm until it heats up. Then just buff with a soft cloth after letting it absorb for a few minutes. Works great!
...and a little goes a long way! Gotta try Turtle Wax now!
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Richard Grant |
#29
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I have been using Googalies cloth and solution for cleaning.
Just picked up some Ken Smith Pro for polish and I am very happy with the results.
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Cloud by Day, Fire by Night 2004 Martin OM28V |
#30
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I've used Clayton's Carneuba and Turtle Wax both. Never any issues with either.
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John Petros, Paragon, National, Martin, Rainsong, and Santa Cruz |