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#16
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Ed
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"Quote The Raven, NEVERMORE !" |
#17
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Quick update:
Took it to my luthier today and he confirmed what most said here. Due to dehydration, the bridge lifted. He is going to remove and reglue. It may also need a fret filing as well but he is going to monitor that after letting it hydrate for a week. I'll follow up in a few weeks after the glue cures and it's back in my hands. Side note: The seller is being a standup guy and covering the costs. |
#18
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Tom AGF Moderator Wood: '02 Taylor 814c | '18 Taylor 214ceDLX | '18 Taylor 150e-12 | '79 Ibanez Dread (First acoustic) | '02 Fender Strat-American '57 RI (Replaced vintage ‘58) Carbon: '18 Emerald X20 Custom | '08 Composite Acoustics Cargo RT My original songs |
#19
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This. New glue doesn't stick to old glue. Bridge must be removed & both it & the top must be cleaned of old glue. Not sure where you are, but $100 would be cheap for where I live.
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-Steve Too many acoustic & electric guitars, basses, mandolins, violins, dulcimers, trumpets & percussion instruments to list. |
#20
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I'd ask the luthier to file the fret ends now, while the neck wood has shrunken. It will never be an issue again, and will take him five minutes to do. This is what I do on my instruments if I discover "fret sprout". I file my own.......
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#21
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What area are you in and how much is typical there? |
#22
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The MAIN REASON many factory made guitar bridges fail is because there is TOO MUCH finish left inside the bridge footprint. I have seen up to 4mm inside the bridge footprint covered with finish. The glue on the underside of the bridge does not make a bond with the finish, and smallifies (like that word, eh...??) the glue bond footprint. Score finish around bridge. Remove bridge. Remove old glue and remove finish to the score mark. Level & mate carefully. Reglue WITH A GLUING CAUL. Drill out the glue squeeze out in the pin-holes. Clean glue around bridge. Restring and happy picking!!
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#23
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#24
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What does a gluing caul, for this purpose, look like?
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#25
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![]() Here's a "fancy" one attached to a clamp from frets.com: ![]() It's just a piece of wood or metal that is used to sandwich the thing being glued. It provides stiffness and prevents the clamps from locating crushing the wood. In the case of a bridge caul, usually, it is the shape of the bridge plate, in steel string X-braced guitars, and a straight piece with cutouts to fit over fan braces in classical guitars. |
#26
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I believe RainSong actually glues their bridges directly to their tops using CA glue, since it bonds to the gel coat of their guitars. |
#27
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I live in Fairfield County, CT right along the “Gold Coast” as they call it. Here that repair is $200. Everything is expensive here. It’s even hard to find a house for under $1MM.
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-Steve Too many acoustic & electric guitars, basses, mandolins, violins, dulcimers, trumpets & percussion instruments to list. |
#28
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For info I charge 120 in Australia, people underestimate the amount of work involved in removing and refitting a bridge, it’s very substantial and with significant risk to damaging the Guitar
Steve
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Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE |
#29
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Trying to save what is, after all, a failing glue joint makes no sense. This is a full remove/reglue job, which is itself no big deal. Bridges are glued so as to be removable! Your good guitar warrants a proper repair. Take it to someone who has done this often and who is not a hack willing to learn by working on your instrument. The reglued bridge needs to be located exactly. It's the heart of your guitar.
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