Remove Capo for Tuning?

[cotten]

I was with a friend of mine as he did a solo gig with a nice, upscale guitar earlier this week. Several times, as he moved his Schubb capo around between songs, a string or two would be out of tune. He left the capo in place and tuned the offending strings. This struck me as odd, and I have always removed a capo before tuning, and replaced it afterward. It normally only takes a second or two longer.

Do you tune with a capo on, or take it off first?

cotten

[bmc]

Ultimately, you want the guitar in tune when the capo is on. If I'm using one, I quick tune with it on if needed.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by cotten

…This struck me as odd, and I have always removed a capo before tuning, and replaced it afterward. It normally only takes a second or two longer.
…Do you tune with a capo on, or take it off first?

Hi Cotten...

If I want the guitar to play in tune with the capo on, I tune with the capo on. It's often the capo which will knock a note or two out of tune. So if I took it off, and tuned the neck 'naked' then reapplied the capo, I'd back in the same hole I started in (a string or two slightly out of tune with the capo on).

That may seem obvious, but I think it's a good question.

[BilliBob]

As already said, its applying the Capo that puts some out, so leave it on and quick retune. Each guitar is different on this matter, some stay bang on(veryfew)most do need a quick redo. It would be wonderful for someone to resolve this issue with some simple invention new type capo which fixes this need for a retune. I find the whole thing a necessary pain in the backside.
Good question.

[cotten]

Thanks, guys. I understand what you're saying, but with my Shubb, if it pulls a string out of tune, it's usually because I've placed it wrong or tightened down on it too much. I find that the right combination of placement and tension makes for a lot less retuning overall than if I tune with the capo on, which doesn't always allow for the string tension to be evenly spread along its length.

That's always made sense to me, but my friend's way of doing things made me wonder!

cotten

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by cotten

Thanks, guys. I understand what you're saying, but with my Shubb, if it pulls a string out of tune, it's usually because I've placed it wrong or tightened down on it too much. I find that the right combination of placement and tension makes for a lot less retuning overall than if I tune with the capo on, which doesn't always allow for the string tension to be evenly spread along its length.

That's always made sense to me, but my friend's way of doing things made me wonder!

cotten

Hi Cotten

Your experience with capos is not typical. I hear people who apparently think the capo doesn't affect their guitar, because they put a capo on and don't tune and begin to play.

Unfortunately I have ears, and hear all sorts of interesting things - not altogether pleasant.

Glad yours doesn't exhibit those issues.






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[scottishrogue]

It depends on the style and brand of capo you use. Some will change the pitch to slightly sharp, depending on the thickness of the string and height of your frets. I will always recheck the tuning after installing my capo...ALWAYS!!!

Glen

[Bowie]

Originally Posted by cotten

Thanks, guys. I understand what you're saying, but with my Shubb, if it pulls a string out of tune, it's usually because I've placed it wrong or tightened down on it too much. I find that the right combination of placement and tension makes for a lot less retuning overall than if I tune with the capo on, which doesn't always allow for the string tension to be evenly spread along its length.

That's always made sense to me, but my friend's way of doing things made me wonder!

cotten

You're right. With the Shub you have enough control that if it goes off, it's probably the placement.

Personally, I unlatch it if it's a wound string, so it doesn't chew on the capo.

[cotten]

I certainly don't like playing out of tune. Perhaps this is one reason I prefer the adjustable tension of a Schubb. I almost never use my Kysers any more, and the only time I'll use a Glider is when a fast change is necessary. Then again, I generally try to avoid capos at all. Sometimes, that's just not possible.

cotten

[Wade Hampton]

What I've found is that using a capo often makes the heavier strings go a bit sharp. I mostly use Shubb capos, and the Shubbs minimize but don't completely eliminate this problem. The higher up the neck you capo, the more pronounced the effect.

So I check it, and if the tuning needs to be corrected when the guitar is capoed, I deal with it.

It should be noted that Shubb capos seem to affect the tuning the least, at least in my experience. But I still check, and when need be, make adjustments.

Hope that makes sense.


Wade Hampton Miller

[ukejon]

Originally Posted by Wade Hampton

What I've found is that using a capo often makes the heavier strings go a bit sharp. I mostly use Shubb capos, and the Shubbs minimize but don't completely eliminate this problem. The higher up the neck you capo, the more pronounced the effect.

So I check it, and if the tuning needs to be corrected when the guitar is capoed, I deal with it.

It should be noted that Shubb capos seem to affect the tuning the least, at least in my experience. But I still check, and when need be, make adjustments.

Hope that makes sense.


Wade Hampton Miller

My experience as well with may capos: Kayser, Shubb, and G7. The E and A typically need to be tuned down a touch.

[Halcyon/Tinker]

Pretty much avoid capos personally for that exact reason. I'm aware that they are really useful tools, but I hardly ever play in standard so they don't do much for me. Though I like the timbre change that they make.

Anyway, I think the main thrust of your question has been well answered. Tune with capo on, though with a capo it's especially important to tune from below the note and not above.

[Dan Bombliss]

Luthier chiming in here...

I don't know who the guy is that created the myth that you can't tune with a capo on, but he's an idiot. He's probably also the same guy that made up this fictitious rule that you can only turn the truss rod 1/4 of a turn per day.

You absolutely need to re-tune the guitar when the capo is on, as like stated above the capo will put the guitar out. It depends on the guitar AND the capo as to whether or not it will go out of tune, or how far. The spring loaded capos are going to have the most problems, since you can't adjust the tension on them. Naturally, they are going to pull harder the farther you go up the neck, and the neck gets thicker. That's where the Shubbs come into play. With the adjustable tension, you can get it just tight enough to hit the frets, but not tight enough to pull sharp.

If you're guitar is not setup properly, or if you really like to dig in and keep higher action, a capo will always pull it out of tune. When the strings are dialed in, there is far less of a stretch, and with a shubb it is possible to get the capo and guitar dialed in together so that you'd almost never have to touch the tuners when you apply and move the capo.

Naturally, the further the strings have to stretch hit the fret, the more it's going to affect your intonation.

-Dan

[Goodallboy]

Originally Posted by ljguitar

Hi Cotten

Your experience with capos is not typical. I hear people who apparently think the capo doesn't affect their guitar, because they put a capo on and don't tune and begin to play.

Unfortunately I have ears, and hear all sorts of interesting things - not altogether pleasant.

Glad yours doesn't exhibit those issues.





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Absolutely my experience as well.....

[Laughingboy68]

Sometimes the strings that go sharp (when the capo is applied) can be remedied with just a slight tug. I find the Shubb capos that use the roller (the Deluxe models, although I recently bought two standards that use a roller as well) rather than the cone shape are even better at keeping tuning concerns to a minimum.

Mike