![]() |
#181
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
This morning I've glued on the fretboard and am setting up the Cocobolo arm bevel: ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks for following along! Mark |
#182
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I've cleaned up the arm bevel some. I was able to select out a nicely figured piece of Cocobolo for this one:
![]() Mark Last edited by Mark Hatcher; 10-28-2019 at 04:18 PM. |
#183
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Now it is starting to look like a guitar:
![]() My favorite part when building a guitar is carving the neck. This is the main touch point between the guitar and the artist playing it so it needs to feel right. In my opinion jigs and CNC programs do not make a neck feel right. The neck needs to be done in an open human hand by feel. My favorite wood to carve for necks is Hard Maple. Like this neck: ![]() More to come! Mark |
#184
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
That's a gorgeous guitar in the works there, Mark. How does hard maple compare to mahogany or Spanish cedar weight-wise? Would it adversely effect the balance of a smaller guitar like, oh, say a 00?
![]()
__________________
Hatcher Woodsman, Rob Allen Mouse 30, Kamaka baritone ukulele |
#185
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
As for the balance of the guitar, where that weight is makes a big difference. The headstock area with the weight of the laminates and tuners has a lot more affect on the balance than if that same weight was added, for instance, to the heal. So double the neck wood weight might be 25 percent heavier and have a 20 percent effect on balance,. Now if I were making a very light weight 14 fret OO, I would be concerned that extra weight would be too much. The balance could be easily compensated for with a heavier tail block but our super lightweight, playful guitar that dances like a child wouldn’t be so light on her feet anymore. Mark |
#186
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
These Hatcher threads are always a treat. Interesting instruments, impressive woodworking and beautiful photography
![]() |
#187
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
I've been working on many of the final pieces and bits such as the heel cap, truss rod cover, neck back strip, and front strap button facet. I'm getting ready to do final sanding and clean up. Here's a couple pics: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks for viewing! Mark |
#188
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Truly beautiful, Mark.
__________________
www.casperguitar.com |
#189
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Really like the maple neck with the mosaic inlay--schweeeet!
__________________
Brazzie (Rio Lava)--2015 Stehr Auditorium (Adirondack/BRW) Tigger--2013 Stehr Auditorium (Carpathian/Myrtlewood) Melee--Razo 19 OM (German/Malaysian) BevelBelle--Wilborn Ellie Belle (Old Stika/EIR) Dana--1999 Bourgeois OM (Sitka/EIR) Tres M--Malachite Machinga Meridian--2020 Baranik Meridian (Machinga/ Colorado Blue Spruce) Ariel--2020 Wilborn Arum (Cocobolo/Tunnel 14) |
#190
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Beautiful Mark. Love the neck inlay and all the other appointments.
However I cannot share your enthusiasm for carving maple necks. There are other woods that are more willing to be carved and I'm a peaceful man.
__________________
John Kinnaird Guitars |
#191
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Thank you Kenneth!
Thanks Nemoman! I think the inlay is a nice contrast with the white Maple neck, yet the colors tie in well with the rest of the guitar. Quote:
Another area that seems to have so many various methods is setting the neck angle when building a guitar. In two weeks our Granite State Luthiers group is getting together on that topic with demos and discussion. Builders all have their tricks. Hopefully, everyone attending will come away having learned a few and shared a few. Mark |
#192
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Many here may already know this but I recently tried full size Buttons on Gotoh 510 MINIS. They work fine but do need the full size screw. There are two considerable mass reductions on the Headstock where it really matters. The full size wood buttons weigh a lot less than the small metal ones, and the mini tuners are much lighter than the full size, too.
Plus the extra comfort of the large buttons, which help a bit when changing tunings during a gig. I have a lot of gigs where there is no stage, and nowhere to stash a second guitar so I am getting a LOT faster at retuning while telling jokes or stories. This one is sure a LOOKER Carry on Sir, and thanks again for all the detailed info!!! Paul
__________________
FOR SALE: 2014 Taylor Custom 516e figured Mahogany/BC Sitka FOR SALE: 1996 Taylor K15c All Koa Jumbo Cut 2 John Kinnaird Customs + #5 coming... R.T 2c 12 fret Custom A few 90s Taylors ![]() Still Too many, but "OLD ENOUGH TO KNOW BETTER, TOO YOUNG TO CARE!" |
#193
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
Mark |
#194
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I fail to see how a larger button would speed up tuning. But I can see how it would make it more accurate. Maybe, if you're fussy enough, the two would be related.
__________________
The Bard Rocks Kinnaird 000 Adk/Ziricote Sexauer L00 Adk/Magnolia Hatcher Jumbo Bearclaw/"Bacon" Padauk Leach "Arctos" OM Millenium Sequioa/Macassar Ebony Goodall Jumbo POC/flamed Mahogany McAlister baritone Adk/Bubinga Appollonio 12 POC/Myrtle MJ Franks Resonator, all Australian Blackwood '31 National Duolian banjos of all kinds, mandolin, autoharp, tiple... |
#195
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Yeah, while a larger button would be turn easier, you would need to open your fingers more for each turn. If you could just roll the button between your fingers you might pick up some speed. It would be a trick to make a button like that look good.
|