Break angle for 1930’s acoustic with tailpiece? Does it really matter?

[Brushwood]

I have a mid 1930’s archtop 000 size, solid spruce top acoustic with a floating bridge. The end/top of the tailpiece is 3” from the notched saddle if that matters. Is there a general degree spec it should have for the break angle? I’ve read where the break angle needs to be around 15 degrees for guitars with bridge pins, but currently this one’s much less. The guitar is a Kay Kraft “Spanish style” round hole and has one of those “Zorzi” adjustable neck angle sliding shims with a bolt and wing nut to hold the neck/body connection in place. I can raise the degree some by using a taller notched saddle along with the adjusting the “Zorzie” connection to the body. Any input is much appreciated as I’m holding off doing the final setup till I read opinions here.
Thanks!

[Brushwood]

Any knowledgeable suggestions in response to my post? The guitar is a keeper and the sound’s very unique…like a guitar with some banjo sprinkled on top.

[theblues88]

From my research, I've concluded that if the string doesn't move/slide on the saddle when plucking under playing conditions, it's all right.

[Fathand]

I once heard that optimum is equal break angle on either side of the bridge. Kinda makes sense but no experience personally except banjos.

Obviously you need enough down pressure to hold the bridge in place and strings should not slide or buzz on the bridge.

[RogerHaggstrom]

The height of the floating bridge is very important, since a high bridge will put a LOT more force down onto the top than a low bridge. This makes it hard to dimension a strong enough and not too strong bracing of the top, the down force varies with the bridge height. The break angle itself is not important as long as the string don't jump or slide on top of the saddle when a string is plucked.

[Bruce Sexauer]

Increasing the break angle increases the power of the guitar up to the point where the down pressure begins to choke the movement of the top. The volume will still increase, but then you have to play hard with a high action, and the felicitous joy is greatly diminished. Like most things, there is a balance point where things are ideal. Some say 14 degrees of break over the saddle is ideal, but they probably aren’t talking about a flat top guitar.

[Brushwood]

Thank you all for your valuable input. I’m looking forward to playing my newly resurrected 90ish year old round hole archtop after I do the final setup tweaking using this advice.