School me on Elliott/McKiney Capo Models, etc?

[JAMKC]

Thinking I might want to give one a go. All of my acoustics are 1 & 3/4" nut. Any reason to go with overr model over the others? The site doesn't tell me much.
Thanks!

[Silly Moustache]

Well, I would also like to know more, and I share the OP's concern because most of my guitars have even wider nut widths.

Since the last century (!) I have been coping perfectly well with the basic Shubb C1s.
When the Blue Chip picks came out, I was sure it had to be a scam, but I was finally convinced.

I will spend my meagre pension (short of going without food and water) for something that improves my playing experience.

So, I'm eager to hear more!

[HFox]

I own 2 Elliott capos...a standard and a "Tony Rice".
I have 5 guitars.......enough said.

[Goodallboy]

The McKinney/Elliott style is a yoke capo. Paige makes a more modest example of this style for $17.99. I used them for years and they're great, though not in the same league as the $235.00 Elliott Tony Rice Model, which I've never owned.

I do own a G7th Heritage yoke style capo ($150) and chose it over the McKinney/Elliott type because of the Adaptive Radius technology which adapts to any radius to your guitar(s). The G7th company pioneered this new technology and it's the biggest advance in capos I've witnessed in my playing career. Go to their website and learn about this advancement in tuning stability, it's quite interesting.

My guitar never sounded "right" when a capo was in use. It lost the rumble and depth of tone that I enjoyed playing without a capo. The Heritage corrected that problem completely. I didn't expect that at all and I'll never be without that capo.

Hope that helps.

[JTFoote]

I'm no expert on the different models, but I do love my Elliott capos. I've had at least a dozen other brands and styles (including an older G7 and a Shubb) that I've tried over the years, but an Elliott is the only capo that accomplishes what I want: 1.) A true sound, as if I had moved the nut. Nothing muffled, or a change in the basic tone of the guitar. 2.) The strings not to slip during bends. 3.) Minimal re-tuning. 4.) A slim profile, so it doesn't get in my way, even in first fret positions. 5.) Wide enough that I can place it anywhere on the neck. 6.) Almost no maintenance. I rotate the tubing once every two or three years, and the capo comes with extras.

The last one I bought was the Elite with the pushbutton and the McKinney saddle, as I'm not fond of the latch, and I like the smaller saddle, so nothing protrudes from the sides. This is the slimmest version that I own. I was able to order it, based on the width and the fretboard radius that I prefer. It's 1-3/4". I have one that is for a twelve-string, and another for a Larrivee with the older compound radius fretboard.

I have had no urge to try another type or brand of capo since I first bought from the company, nearly a decade ago. I did hang onto my Shubb for a while, mostly to check changes in relief, but I finally gave it away, as well. The barre was just too big and the material too soft, IMHO. I have given away several Elliott capos as gifts, and everyone has been enormously pleased. At least half of my personal songbook requires a capo, and an Elliott fits the bill to a "T".

... JT

[Misifus]

I understand that Phill Elliott asks some specific questions before actually building the capo. This is essential, because equal nut width doesn’t necessarily mean equal neck width up the neck.

Years ago I stopped in Cotton Music in Nashville, while on a trip, and found a Martin OM-16GT I couldn’t live without. By the time I got to Catonsville, MD, I discovered that the stirrup styled capo I had been using on my luthier-made SJ to capo at the eighth fret wouldn’t work on my new Martin. The yoke of the capo just wouldn’t slide that far up the neck. Fortunately, Appalachian Bluegrass had a Planet Waves NS that worked great!

That capo is a far cry from an Elliott, but my point is that your capo, especially that type, must be made to fit your guitar as far up as you need to use it, and all necks are not alike.

[Rudy4]

Originally Posted by JAMKC

Thinking I might want to give one a go. All of my acoustics are 1 & 3/4" nut. Any reason to go with over model over the others? The site doesn't tell me much.
Thanks!

Your topic title has "etc." which I take to mean that you might entertain other options.

You might consider the D'Addario Cradle capo. I posted a very through review on page 2 of this topic:

https://www.acousticguitarforum.com/...d.php?t=532313

[Tnfiddler]

I talked with Bill Stokes about ordering one of his Showcase capos yesterday. They are supposed to be just as good, if not better, than the Elliott for less money. Look into those as well.

[jaymarsch]

As a long time user of the Elliott-McKinney capo, I recommend them highly. I did have a conversation with Phill about my needs, the compound radii of my guitars and my neck width and shape. I have used a variety of yoke style capos over the years and there are some good choices out there now. I prefer the Elliott for my guitars, ears and hands. It is very light, unobtrusive and allows for the clearest ringing of harmonics of any capo that I have used. The tone of my guitar sounds as full and true as if I wasn't even using a capo and I find them very easy to adjust. The clear tubing can be easily rotated and even replaced when you need to. Worth checking out in my opinion.

If you have both acoustic and electric guitars, the G7th Heritage is worth checking out as well. It adjusts to a variety of radii.

Best,
Jayne

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by JAMKC

Thinking I might want to give one a go. All of my acoustics are 1 & 3/4" nut. Any reason to go with overr model over the others? The site doesn't tell me much.
Thanks!

Hi JAMKC

Back in 1993 when I received my Olson Dreadnought, the Shubb Capo I'd used for years would not properly hold strings down even at the 6th fret (string would pop out from under the end). The 12 string version nosed over because it was FAR too long, and would not work either.

So I started a short search which is where I discovered Phil Elliott, and the McKinney/Elliott which I preferred for it's easy to unlock mechanism. I actually spoke with Phil and he had me take a couple measurements and call him back. It's perfect for my guitars.

I'd happily owned it (still do) for many years when Planet Waves came out with the NS Pro (what they called it back then). It had an Aluminum Frame, side address, solidly built and worked on about anything. It works 95% as well as the McKinney/Elliott. Planet Waves work 100% better for cut capo work.

I did a lot of experiments when I got into cut capos (alternate tunings). The Planet Waves work well for cutting and customizing. The Solid Aluminum Model Black version (they did make some Lite plastic frame versions, and brushed silver versions which failed too frequently) are still in my mind the simplest and best side address models around.

My gigging partner uses a Paige Yoke on a 1¾" nut Taylor 714ce, and it works great too.

The McKinney/Elliott has the narrowest upper bumper of any I've owned, and it not only clamps/seals the string well, it sustains the best of any capo I own. I have a couple boxes full of what I call my Capo Museum (pics below)






I have others (not shown)…

[sayheyjeff]

Bought an Elliot and a g7th heritage (used) in the last year to see how I liked them and if I might prefer one over the other. They are very similar to me in terms of performance, ease of use, and are similarly attractive. Paid about the same amount for them as well. On the used market they appear to sell very fast as well minimizing financial risk as someone will buy yours if you decide not to keep it. The most important concern I had was to find wide enough models so I could Capo as far up the neck as I need to. I have been using g7ths for a number of years and like them a lot. However, I wanted to test the yoke design benefits and the reputed superior performance. Love the yoke design and the performance of both the G7th and the Elliott. Either would do for me. I think the Elliott is ever so slightly easier to adjust. For the Heritage, I like the contacts with the guitar both top and bottom just a little better. Ended up keeping the Heritage only because the one I found on the used market is wider than the Elliott I found and it allows me to Capo farther up the neck. My guitars have never sounded so clear with a Capo as they have since I went for these. If I had to choose I might pick the Heritage but I see little between them. Other capos work well, but I don’t think the ones I know and liked before work as well as these. If the money is discretionary, they are certainly worth a try.

Jeff

[blindboyjimi]

None of us need, or I’ll just say, I don’t need anything better than a $2,000 guitar and a $20 capo. This being a guitar forum, some of us are fortunate enough to have collections of guitars and capos. Certainly don’t spend more than you can afford to lose expecting some magical capo. They do work slightly better but I’m no professional player. I love it when I do see professionals, most use a clamp on Kyser for $19.

Most of my guitars are 16” radius Martin type fretboards so the best of the best is the Elliot Elite. The G7th Heritage is great for any fretboard radii. A planet waves, shubb, or anything that works is good enough, but if you're looking to treat yourself, buy yourself a gift or ask for a nice present you can’t do better than the G 7th or Elliot. I have them in wide and normal but I can never tell the difference. I know my 1 3/4” Elliot is the smallest and it will easily go to the 5th fret of my 1 13/16” nut guitars so there’s no real need for the super wide ones unless you’re way up the neck with a 1 7/8” nut.