Advice wanted for slotting bridge holes

[Taylor Ham]

Quick recap, I am building a 12 string and want to use only 6 pins.

Is the slot on this mockup hole too big?

Since a slotted pin for two strings would compromise the pin, I chose to use unslotted 3* pins in slotted 3* holes. Std. .210" at the skirt. please excuse the roughness.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by Taylor Ham

Is the slot on this mockup hole too big?

Too big for what? What, specifically, is your concern?

[Taylor Ham]

I'm concerned about the hole loosening up over time if the slot is too large.

I wonder if there's any long term repair observations for slotted holes with unslotted pins.

[phavriluk]

Timely topic. I'm considering doing the very same thing, and I'm ready to install the bridge. OP did me a favor by discussing the mockup. Duh!

Thanks!

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by Taylor Ham

I'm concerned about the hole loosening up over time if the slot is too large.

It seems to me that as long as you don't completely eliminate the front of the hole, you should be fine.

I wonder if there's any long term repair observations for slotted holes with unslotted pins.

It is a non-issue for standard slots with standard un-slotted pins.

[Brucebubs]

This is an interesting approach - go pinless on the thinner octave strings.

[Taylor Ham]

Originally Posted by Brucebubs

This is an interesting approach - go pinless on the thinner octave strings.

Thanks, but I think that's something I'd want to avoid at this point. I actually want to like pinless bridges, but it's a more of a hassle to do setups and sometimes string changes with them, especially on those skinny octave strings. I already thinned my bridge blank to .295", which will not leave alot of room for the ball ends. It makes me nervous considering the tension involved, and that it's mostly empty air on that furch bridge around the pins and pinless channels.

[Talldad]

I'd have two concerns using this approach.

Having the two brass rings in contact under the bridge could create an interference, at certain frequencies they could start to chatter. I would want to eliminate this possibility somehow.

Secondly keeping the two string apart at fixed distance at the saddle would be more of a challenge, possibly overcome by having two pilot holes in the bridge as you have shown, or better by having a slotted bridge perhaps.

[phavriluk]

I think Talldad raised two good questions. About the two ball ends bouncing off each other, I don't think that is a problem. Taylor is selling two-on-a-pin 12-strings right now, and I'm happy to follow along. About string separation at the bridge, I think is a very good question. I don't have access to the same equipment Taylor has. I imagine Taylor makes cnc-cut slots or lasercut slots, a big difference from my calipers and saws and files.

[Taylor Ham]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

I think Talldad raised two good questions. About the two ball ends bouncing off each other, I don't think that is a problem. Taylor is selling two-on-a-pin 12-strings right now, and I'm happy to follow along. About string separation at the bridge, I think is a very good question. I don't have access to the same equipment Taylor has. I imagine Taylor makes cnc-cut slots or lasercut slots, a big difference from my calipers and saws and files.

I'm ok with string spacing at the bridge. When the strings are brought up to tension, they can pretty well hold themselves on the saddle. After awhile there are microscopic grooves in whatever material. All I need to do is set the spacing the first time.

If I'm really particular about it, I could set a brass pin right in front of the string ramp/slot, and have the strings pass around it. That would avoid slotting the saddle, which I heard can contribute to string breaks. It would also avoid recompensation depending on how much the slot would drop the contour at that point in the saddle.

[John Arnold]

I'm concerned about the hole loosening up over time if the slot is too large.

I wonder if there's any long term repair observations for slotted holes with unslotted pins.

Unslotted pins and a slotted bridge are superior for several reasons.

The need for repair is a nonissue, if you don't over-slot the bridge. When slotting, test the fit of the pin with the string installed. Stop enlarging the slot when the pin can be fully inserted.

In nearly all cases, bridgeplate damage occurs when weaker slotted plastic pins distort, allowing the string ball to climb into the hole. Repair is simply a matter of taping over the bridgeplate holes and dropping thin CA and wood dust in the hole. Refit the pins with a tapered reamer, then recut the slots to fit the strings snugly.

[Howard Klepper]

I don't know what a 3* pin is, but I suggest using oversize pins such as StewMac's (.235").

It's what I used here. It worked.

[Taylor Ham]

Originally Posted by Howard Klepper

I don't know what a 3* pin is, but I suggest using oversize pins such as StewMac's (.235").



It's what I used here. It worked.

Thanks, Howard. I meant 3 degrees. I'm using standard size .210" bridge pins for easier replacement in a pinch. Your website and work was some of what impressed me in my early search of alternative bracing patterns.

[Taylor Ham]

Thanks All for the feedback. I've decided to go ahead and work carefully. Bridge should be done tonight.

[phavriluk]

All ears. I'm learning something here.