#31
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Which leads to -- how much slack string do you leave, and do you cut then or after winding. I did the Martin lock for 60 years because I didn't know different. All those sharp ends sticking up, and so hard to remove. Now with the forum, I like pulling a little beyond the peg and cutting before bending the last 1/4 inch, and then winding up the slack. And am next going to try pulling taut, manually wrapping twice, then winding and cutting.
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https://soundcloud.com/user-871798293/sets/sound-cloud-playlist/s-29kw5 Eastman E20-OM Yamaha CSF3M |
#32
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I have found in 25 years of playing, and having used a variety of stringing methods, that pretty much all the stringing methods work fine. I go with the easiest. Poke the string through, get a couple of wraps, seat the string. Bam. The “locking” methods of back-wrapping the string ends do nothing, in my experience, except add complication to installation and removal.
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Circa OM-30/34 (Adi/Mad) | 000-12 (Ger/Maple) | OM-28 (Adi/Brz) | OM-18/21 (Adi/Hog) | OM-42 (Adi/Braz) Fairbanks SJ (Adi/Hog) | Schoenberg/Klepper 000-12c (Adi/Hog) | LeGeyt CLM (Swiss/Amzn) | LeGeyt CLM (Carp/Koa) Brondel A-2 (Carp/Mad) |
#33
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Nope, just put through enough to see, pull it taut, and start winding making sure the winds are headed toward the headstock. Having an electric winder makes this a breeze! scott |
#34
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Interesting as I've had lots of pros tell me that you really only want 2 to 3 winds or it'll change the tone (some claimed more likely to break but I haven't found that to be true).
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