Stringing to tuners?

[Atomnimity]

I have been changing a lot of strings with my four guitars and experimenting with each. I saw a comment in a post recently about attaching strings to tuners. I can't find that post but it was something like - with a tight string wrap around post a couple of times and lock into hole? I have been using the Martin method of locking with a loose string and then tightening.

I was intrigued with that comment because it sounded so simple. I have not been able to find anything online about using this method to see if it was how it sounded - which sounded easy and clean. I want to trying this but I'm wondering why out of 10-20 youtube videos on stringing I haven't found one on this method.

P.S. The Martin method is fine but I do get some sloppy wraps on occasion.

[llew]

My luthier/tech uses that method. I've tried it but it never quite worked as well for me. I precut and leave a bit of string sticking thru the hole and wrap once over the string and once under the string and any subsequent wraps under the standing portion of the string. Simple and easy. No a fan of the Martin method personally. Just my two cents...

[ChrisE]

I've never used any over or under or locking. I just use what's become known as the Taylor Method as described here:

https://www.taylorguitars.com/suppor...-steel-strings

I do it exactly as shown except they left off the step where you poke your finger with the end of one of the treble strings and bleed all over the place.

[llew]

Originally Posted by ChrisE

I've never used any over or under or locking. I just use what's become known as the Taylor Method as described here:

https://www.taylorguitars.com/suppor...-steel-strings

I do it exactly as shown except they left off the step where you poke your finger with the end of one of the treble strings and bleed all over the place.

Yeah...I do that too Chris! Ouch! That's exactly what I do but wrap one over and then the rest under. It's basically a boaters knot that pulls against self and won't slip. Both work equally as well probably?

[Oldguy64]

Measure the width of two fingers past the post. (Or to the next post on a six string)
Kink the string at that point.
Put it through the hole in the tuner and kink it again so it stays put.
Hold the string taut with one hand and wind with the other.
You will get Three wraps that will hold the “bitter end” locked.
Add a little more to get a fourth wrap on the B & high E strings.
Once the string is taut and locked, you can cut them.
Rinse and repeat x5 or x11.

Alternatively you can, after the first kink, insert string into tuning post, and take one wrap over the top and run the rest under the string end.

Both will result in a string that is locked in place, yet easy to remove when its time to change them.

[Atomnimity]

Good suggestions guys! I do find it sometimes a pain when unstinging with the Martin way to get the string cut end out of the post hole because of the lock wrap. Annoying and yes sometimes painful! I think I did start with the Taylor method - not sure why I changed.

I would still like to get info on the hand wrap and then secure method. I might just try it - what I think it is - to see how it goes.

Jim

[BT55]

Google Joe Bonamassa’s tech on string changes. I use his method.

[llew]

Originally Posted by Atomnimity

Good suggestions guys! I do find it sometimes a pain when unstinging with the Martin way to get the string cut end out of the post hole because of the lock wrap. Annoying and yes sometimes painful! I think I did start with the Taylor method - not sure why I changed.

I would still like to get info on the hand wrap and then secure method. I might just try it - what I think it is - to see how it goes.

Jim

I think it's basically the Taylor method referred to above kind of in reverse. You just take the string and wrap it around the tuner post two or three times and when it's almost level with the hole you pass it through and pull it tight. Bring it to tune and cut it. It works well as I have several guitars currently with strings my luthier/tech changed when he did other work to them.

[AVTaylor83]

Originally Posted by ChrisE

I've never used any over or under or locking. I just use what's become known as the Taylor Method as described here:

https://www.taylorguitars.com/suppor...-steel-strings

I do it exactly as shown except they left off the step where you poke your finger with the end of one of the treble strings and bleed all over the place.

I prefer the Taylor method as well. It's pretty quick and easy with an electric screwdriver too.

With the wrap-method, I always find that it takes longer to get them off when changing them.

[ljguitar]

Originally Posted by Atomnimity

I have been changing a lot of strings with my four guitars and experimenting with each. I saw a comment in a post recently about attaching strings to tuners. I can't find that post but it was something like - with a tight string wrap around post a couple of times and lock into hole? I have been using the Martin method of locking with a loose string and then tightening.

I was intrigued with that comment because it sounded so simple. I have not been able to find anything online about using this method to see if it was how it sounded - which sounded easy and clean. I want to trying this but I'm wondering why out of 10-20 youtube videos on stringing I haven't found one on this method.

P.S. The Martin method is fine but I do get some sloppy wraps on occasion.

Hi Atomnimity

There are videos out there.

I have a friend who does this, and it works for him.

Since I wrap the wound strings all the way to the base of the shaft, it would not work for me. Nor would it work on a slot head guitar.

Go to 2:07 mark of this video (shows 4 ways to string). The 'host' of the video called the 'fast wrap method'…

[vindibona1]

The method that the OP is referring to is not the Taylor method. The method I now use for most strings is that which the OP is inquiring about: 1) After installing the string in the bridge, bring the string taught up to the tuning post. Manually wrap twice around the post- THEN insert the string into the post hole and pull it through taught. Then tune to pitch.

Doing it with this method minimizes the number or rotations of the tuner key. Done with the Taylor method (or other locking method) it takes 40-60 key turns to get the strings up to tension. If you're using a power winder perhaps the Taylor method is just as good. But if you're using a manual winder or no winder at all, it is annoying as a rotary dial telephone (if you're old enough to remember those) . I find that the "wrap first, insert string later" method cuts my installation time by a few minutes as I don't own a power winder.

ALTERNATELY, for roundcore strings, I use a locking technique where I do put a tuner-length slack on the string, then bring it around, under and back over to create a 90° crimp in the string that also gets locked under the wrap in the first post rotation. I do not use the locking technique (any longer) for unwound strings. I used to use the locking technique for everything as a hold-over from stringing electric guitars without locking tuners.

[llew]

Lots of ways to restring a guitar. Kinda like tying a tie. Best advice I can give is find what works for you and use it. No right or wrong...just different.

[Rev Roy]

Originally Posted by ChrisE

I've never used any over or under or locking. I just use what's become known as the Taylor Method as described here:

https://www.taylorguitars.com/suppor...-steel-strings

I do it exactly as shown except they left off the step where you poke your finger with the end of one of the treble strings and bleed all over the place.

Yep...this is what I do as well. Did the “Martin method“ for a long time, but then gave the “Taylor method“ a try and I’ve never looked back. Both get the job done just fine. But for me at least, the Taylor method is simpler and easier...

[vindibona1]

My two issues with precutting and using the "Taylor method" is that if the string is already cut and pulls back through the post hole you've got to fumble with it once again and where the post hole is facing when you thread the string through can make a difference keeping the string in place, If I'm going to use that methods, also known as the basic method, I'm not going to cut the strings until either one side is wound or all the strings or wound, depending on how I'm feeling in the moment Keeping the full length of the string to the end speeds up the process slightly as you only have to pick up the clippers once or twice. With the Taylor method, you measure, clip, insert wind, setting down the clipper and picking up the winder with each string. If the strings are still attached you aren't putting down and picking up tools for each successive string.

[Silly Moustache]

Originally Posted by llew

My luthier/tech uses that method. I've tried it but it never quite worked as well for me. I precut and leave a bit of string sticking thru the hole and wrap once over the string and once under the string and any subsequent wraps under the standing portion of the string. Simple and easy. No a fan of the Martin method personally. Just my two cents...

That's a me too.

I've looked at this locking business but I see no reason.
I pre-cut, to lengths that suit me, make a 90 degree bend abut 1/4" - 3/8" at the end, thread that through the capstan, first wind above, three winds underneath, done. No slippage, not tuning issues.