Gretsch w/Bigsby T (verbrato) string change video

[Gdjjr]

This is an interesting video. Changing strings on my Gretsch w/Bigsby T is a royal PITA. I'm curious about more seasoned owners opinion.
He also has an interesting bridge

[rockabilly69]

I have 3 Bigsby guitars, and I don't like roller bridges, to me, they hamper sustain. My favorite bridges for Bigsby equipped guitars are bar bridges for sound. Tru-Arc makes them in regular and compensated for almost any guitar that uses Bigsbys. Bigsby also makes bridges for Bigsby equipped guitars. If you need more intonation compensation than that, I would recommend a Melita (gretsch synchro sonic_, or an ABR sitting on domed thumbwheels like these... https://www.crazyparts.de/bridges--t...tro-chrome.php

The fact that he is going over the tension bar is alright with me as I don't like Bigsbys with those anyway.

Here is my Melita bridge...


Here is my Tru-Arc bridge...


Here is my compensated Bigsby bridge...



Here is an acutal Bigsby bridge

[Gdjjr]

I'm just glad my next acquisition, a Rat Rod, doesn't have the tension bar.
The next set of strings I put on my 2657 I will go over the top of it and see how it sounds. I may get a vibramate for it as well.

[CoryB]

I’ve got a Vibramate on my G5420T. I can’t say it’s any easier to string than my other Gretsches though, it’s just different.

In fact, it will come off when I change the strings on that guitar again. I found that just bending the string end helps it stay on the Bigsby when I’m stringing it. You can also use a rubber pencil eraser (the square-ish ones, not the kind attached to the pencil) or a little piece of foam to keep the string in place.

[Gdjjr]

Originally Posted by CoryB

I’ve got a Vibramate on my G5420T. I can’t say it’s any easier to string than my other Gretsches though, it’s just different.

In fact, it will come off when I change the strings on that guitar again. I found that just bending the string end helps it stay on the Bigsby when I’m stringing it. You can also use a rubber pencil eraser (the square-ish ones, not the kind attached to the pencil) or a little piece of foam to keep the string in place.

Huh- interesting that you don't care for the Vibramate - that square eraser trick sounds like a good idea! And it is a lot cheaper than the Vibramate

[FrankHudson]

No one more knowledgeable has chimed in, so I'll give it a go with my response.

I watched the video. I can be long winded too, but this guy talks all the way around things and then some. Tastes differ on this stuff, and I'm no representative example.

The Too Long Did Not Watch summary is that yes, his guitar with a Bigsby will still work if the strings are not run under that model Bigbsy front bar. I've heard others have done the same thing and it works for them. It's non-destructive, so someone's out at worse some time and a set of strings. Neck angle, bridge/saddle type, playing style, etc could make what worked for this video guy not work for someone else though.

Much of the rest of what I can gather is indented as information or advice is off dead-true. Yes guitars have different break angles, and many players think lower break angles make a guitar feel more "slinky" to play; and others feel that too little break angle makes the guitars sound off from their expected or desired sound. In some cases the strings can come out of the saddle slots or nut slots when there's too little down pressure from break angle, particularly if you're a string bender or hard strummer or your string gauge tension isn't high enough. The vid guy demonstrates another physical issue with low break angles: his floating, wood-base non-anchored bridge can slide all over the place. Naw, not a drawback at all he reports. I beg to differ. And his folklore about the location of said bridge types with the F-hole points is not the way to go, that's at best a rough guide. Most people use a tuner to set bridge/saddle locations as best as can be obtained. And no, a wrap-around bridge tailpiece is not an example of no break angle. It's an example of a vary sharp break angle.

I could go on....

They are probably better videos out there on these matters.

[rockabilly69]

I forgot to add... That when changing strings on my Bigsby guitars (that use pins), I pre-bend the string to make it go onto the Bigsby pins easier, run the string up towards the headstock, clamp it to the fretboard with a capo to hold it in place, thread the end of the string into the tuner and give it enough turns until the string has enough tension to hold itself in place on the Bigsby. Then I pop off the capo.

[Gdjjr]

Originally Posted by rockabilly69

I forgot to add... That when changing strings on my Bigsby guitars (that use pins), I pre-bend the string to make it go onto the Bigsby pins easier, run the string up towards the headstock, clamp it to the fretboard with a capo to hold it in place, thread the end of the string into the tuner and give it enough turns until the string has enough tension to hold itself in place on the Bigsby. Then I pop off the capo.

Yes, I did that last time- part of my difficulty is going under the front bar and getting hold of the string to bring it all the way through and not scratch the paint (I'm anal about that sort of thing)- I use my left hand, which is where my callouses are and have 0 feel for getting the non-wrapped strings to co operate

[Gdjjr]

Originally Posted by FrankHudson

No one more knowledgeable has chimed in, so I'll give it a go with my response.

I watched the video. I can be long winded too, but this guy talks all the way around things and then some. Tastes differ on this stuff, and I'm no representative example.

The Too Long Did Not Watch summary is that yes, his guitar with a Bigsby will still work if the strings are not run under that model Bigbsy front bar. I've heard others have done the same thing and it works for them. It's non-destructive, so someone's out at worse some time and a set of strings. Neck angle, bridge/saddle type, playing style, etc could make what worked for this video guy not work for someone else though.

Much of the rest of what I can gather is indented as information or advice is off dead-true. Yes guitars have different break angles, and many players think lower break angles make a guitar feel more "slinky" to play; and others feel that too little break angle makes the guitars sound off from their expected or desired sound. In some cases the strings can come out of the saddle slots or nut slots when there's too little down pressure from break angle, particularly if you're a string bender or hard strummer or your string gauge tension isn't high enough. The vid guy demonstrates another physical issue with low break angles: his floating, wood-base non-anchored bridge can slide all over the place. Naw, not a drawback at all he reports. I beg to differ. And his folklore about the location of said bridge types with the F-hole points is not the way to go, that's at best a rough guide. Most people use a tuner to set bridge/saddle locations as best as can be obtained. And no, a wrap-around bridge tailpiece is not an example of no break angle. It's an example of a vary sharp break angle.

I could go on....

They are probably better videos out there on these matters.

I appreciate your in put and knowledge- so, if you'd like to go on, by all means feel free to- at this point, I think I'm going to stay away from not going under the front bar- it was put there for a reason by people much better equipped than I am to make that decision-