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Truss Rod questions please.
On a 24.75 neck is a 15 1/2" truss rod too long? Also, the truss rod I have is exposed (with shrink wrap on the threads) do I still flood the trench with glue?
The last truss rod I used had a aluminum casing around it. If the truss rod is wrong, what should I get? Signed, Epoxy in Que' |
#2
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as to length, it should be from the nut to the heel, depending on where to access for adjustments. a 12 fret neck will have a shorted rod than a 14.......
set the rod on the neck and have a looksee! as to flooding the slot, I never put ANY glue in the slot |(but then it was a Lowden luthier who taught me, what would HE know?????) a 1/4 turn from loose will hold it in place and stop it slipping around.
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#3
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#4
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Your truss rod should be right length. Never put glue in the slot it will hinder the function of the truss rod. I use a piece of common masking tape and put a strip over the entire length of the truss rod slot. I use half inch wide tape and center it down the neck. The tape keeps the glue out of the slot when you glue on the fret board. After you glue the fret board a 1/4 turn from loose will hold it in place and keep it from rattling.
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#5
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is through the soundhole. What do you mean when you say your neck is 24.75"? Is that your scale length of the total length of the neck? Determining the correct truss rod is determined by where you choose your neck/ body joint to be - whether it's the 12th, 13th, or 14th fret. The truss rod I use (Allied) runs from around the third fret through the neck block and that's with a 14th fretter. Never dump glue in the truss rod channel. Cap it. Jim McCarthy |
#6
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I also use the Allied rods, because of the thread pitchs he chose they are the very best rods available. They feel like having power steering in your necks.
Highly recommended! Mikey |
#7
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I also use the Allied rods. Mostly because they are Stainless steel and no one has a fun time with a rusty truss rod. They are very smooth to operate too.
If you're adjusting through the sound hole, the rod you have will be just fine, and actually, it might be fine if adjustment is at the headstock. Just as a note, it's always a good idea to draw guitars out full scale before building them, you will know exactly how long the neck, fretboard needs to be and where the soundhole will end up etc.... Happy building.
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Rod True, aspiring luthier My current project A guitar I built for my Father in Law The Celtic Beauty - The Epic Journey True SJ - #9 |
#8
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The Stew Mac double action is in place on this one. I was about to order some LMI rods for future builds. I will explore Allied Rods! That will bring my LMI order down to $500 lol
BTW I am working from a blue print of a 1937 LOO Gibson that I modified to have a fatter butt (emulating the Epi ELOOVS profile). |