Bridge Pin length at bridge plate

[donnyb]

Helllo, and thank you for reading this .

I have glued in a thin maple veneer plate over the existing bridge plate in a 12 string after repairing all string ball end gnaw-ings. I willl be buying replacement 3 degree bridge pins shortly and reaming the pin holes.

As the pins are available in slightly different lengths, what is the ideal final position of the bottom off the bridge pin in relation to the bottom of the bridge plate ?

Regards,

[Victory Pete]

Good question, I don't know what is ideal but if you get long pins there will be a thicker part of the pin contacting the ball end. I have wondered if simply filing any extra length beyond the ball end off.

[hubcapsc]

Originally Posted by Victory Pete

Good question, I don't know what is ideal but if you get long pins there will be a thicker part of the pin contacting the ball end. I have wondered if simply filing any extra length beyond the ball end off.

I too wonder what good all that extra stuff hanging there does, but Ida
know...



-Mike

[donnyb]

Originally Posted by Victory Pete

Good question, I don't know what is ideal but if you get long pins there will be a thicker part of the pin contacting the ball end. I have wondered if simply filing any extra length beyond the ball end off.

Thanks Pete. Sounds like Ive asked a good question for once !

[donnyb]

Originally Posted by hubcapsc

I too wonder what good all that extra stuff hanging there does, but Ida
know...



-Mike

Well, so far , tha'ts three of us !!

[John Arnold]

No good reason for extending the pins past the string balls. The length of pins is a 'one size fits all' design, which allows for a range in the total thickness of the bridge/top/bridgeplate sandwich. While the pins on the treble end can often be a little shorter, I prefer that the pins all be the same length for interchangeability.

[phavriluk]

Easy enough to make up a set of pins to experiment a bit. I can't see much gain, the weight of the trimmings is negligible, but then everything we do in a positive direction counts, no matter how small a change.

[donnyb]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

No good reason for extending the pins past the string balls. The length of pins is a 'one size fits all' design, which allows for a range in the total thickness of the bridge/top/bridgeplate sandwich. While the pins on the treble end can often be a little shorter, I prefer that the pins all be the same length for interchangeability.

Thanks John. I will make the pin projections from the bottom off the bridge plate the outside diameter of the string ball end.

Related to that, is it best to ream to allow the pin collar to sit proud of the bridge by ssaay, 1-2mm ?

[donnyb]

Originally Posted by phavriluk

Easy enough to make up a set of pins to experiment a bit. I can't see much gain, the weight of the trimmings is negligible, but then everything we do in a positive direction counts, no matter how small a change.

I think I read in a reliable book once, that bridge pins arent necessary if the bridge holes are slotted correctly, but it wasnt recommended to actually try it !

Makes me wonder if bridge pins are a string vibration transfer positive or a vibration transfer negative. Im going to use ivory pins.

[John Arnold]

I see no reason to leave the pins sticking up. I ream so that the pins insert all the way to the collar, with only slight compression. All I am after is enough to keep the pin from falling out without the string. String tension will hold it in place if the slot for the string is properly sized. Any extra force will increase the chance of splitting the bridge.

[donnyb]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

I see no reason to leave the pins sticking up. I ream so that the pins insert all the way to the collar, with only slight compression. All I am after is enough to keep the pin from falling out without the string. String tension will hold it in place if the slot for the string is properly sized. Any extra force will increase the chance of splitting the bridge.

Concise and beneficial advice ! Thankyou John.

[Mark Hatcher]

A reason the longer pin is helpful is it is easier to manipulate the ball end into position with the finer tapered point and additional leverage of a longer pin before fully seating the bridge pin.
There are ways to get around it but this is certainly the least fiddly way to quickly set the string.

Mark

[Victory Pete]

Originally Posted by Mark Hatcher

A reason the longer pin is helpful is it is easier to manipulate the ball end into position with the finer tapered point and additional leverage of a longer pin before fully seating the bridge pin.
There are ways to get around it but this is certainly the least fiddly way to quickly set the string.

Mark

Good point