Tuned down a whole step with capo 2

[Jmaulz]

I only have difficulty with two picking techniques: flat picking and finger picking. This might have to do with my being left handed but playing right handed guitar, as my fingering hand is strong. Tuning down allows me to hammer and pull of much more effectively, which allows me to play along with faster music that I'd otherwise be straining to keep up with. The string tension is considerably less, I like the tone of the looser, fatter strings, and the reach for more difficult chords is easier. I lose two frets, but I'm used to playing 12 fret classical guitars. I imagine it's probably similar to playing a 12 fret dread, but from what I've seen it's a lot cheaper. I use standard tuning because I play with other instruments that can't change pitch as easily. It wouldn't hold up at a bluegrass jam because I can't really capo up two more frets, which is often needed to play many traditional fiddle tunes. I still have 5/64" and 4/64" low to high at the 12th fret, and the relief is about .010". It looks like the string angle of the "open" strings (those not fretted with the fingers) from the capo'd 2nd fret to the saddle might be steeper than it would be from the nut to the saddle, which is why I think I might need a slightly taller saddle, but then on the other hand it's playing pretty clean right now.

[Bain]

I also have my guitar tuned half a step down mainly just for strumming it sounds better to me , then capo back up to standard when i play fingerpicking songs which also shortens the length to achieve some difficult chords for me ..........

[Tricia]

I keep both my guitars tuned down a whole step. I started doing this 30-some years ago when I realized it worked better for singing with it, and resulted in far fewer snapped strings. I use a capo at various frets depending on the song. If I'm playing with others, I either use the capo at 2nd fret or I transpose in the moment, depending what key it's in and how simple it is. Every few years I try putting them back in standard tuning, but never like it and go back to a whole step down.

[JonPR]

Originally Posted by Jmaulz

I only have difficulty with two picking techniques: flat picking and finger picking.

What other kinds are there??

Originally Posted by Jmaulz

This might have to do with my being left handed but playing right handed guitar,

Yes! Definitely. You need more practice with your right hand, same as the rest of us did with our left.

Originally Posted by Jmaulz

Tuning down allows me to hammer and pull of much more effectively, which allows me to play along with faster music that I'd otherwise be straining to keep up with. The string tension is considerably less, I like the tone of the looser, fatter strings, and the reach for more difficult chords is easier.

all makes sense!

Personally, I'd suggest going one gauge heavier, to improve both the tone and the intonation (without making them any tighter than standard gauge in EADGBE). It shouldn't make them that much harder to play (hammer ons and pull-offs) - unless you're bending. String bending is where looser tension is really important.
And if the tighter tension means you can lower the action, that's what really makes hammer-ons and pull-offs easier.

Originally Posted by Jmaulz

I lose two frets, but I'm used to playing 12 fret classical guitars. I imagine it's probably similar to playing a 12 fret dread, but from what I've seen it's a lot cheaper. I use standard tuning because I play with other instruments that can't change pitch as easily. It wouldn't hold up at a bluegrass jam because I can't really capo up two more frets, which is often needed to play many traditional fiddle tunes.

It shouldn't be a problem to capo as much as 5 frets higher. I sometimes capo fret 7, although I wouldn't do it often - and only to get the sound of a guitar tune that is already played that way.
I'm interested in what you say about fiddle tunes, and I'm surprised why you would need to capo up (most fiddle keys are easy enough with no capo); can you give some examples?

Originally Posted by Jmaulz

I still have 5/64" and 4/64" low to high at the 12th fret, and the relief is about .010".

That's pretty low. You mean it was even less than that before? Scratch what I said above about lowering the action! (With capo on 2, the 14th fret would the reference, but any difference ought to be negligible.)

Originally Posted by Jmaulz

It looks like the string angle of the "open" strings (those not fretted with the fingers) from the capo'd 2nd fret to the saddle might be steeper than it would be from the nut to the saddle, which is why I think I might need a slightly taller saddle,

Ideally the angle would be exactly the same, which is the point of relief: to have the same break angle all the way up the neck (same from every fret as from the nut). The higher the saddle, the larger that break angle will be, but ideally you have it as low as you can without getting any fret buzz.

Originally Posted by Jmaulz

but then on the other and it's playing pretty clean right now.

Seems like you have a good set-up in that case. The action and relief measurements certainly seem ideal, if it's playing clean.

[Silly Moustache]

Originally Posted by Paleolith54

It's not that hard. I tune down a full step on acoustic so that, with one guitar, I can:

1. Sing most anything I want to and accompany myself and stay within my vocal range.

2. Capo 1 and play with a particular partner who tends to tune down a half step.

3. Capo 2 and be at concert pitch.

4. Play with lower tension: I mostly play electric, so giving myself a break on string tension on acoustic is nice.

It's a compromise, for sure, but it works pretty well.

Hi, obviously we can play our guitars strung, tuned in any way we choose.

I play mostly out of 1st position G, C or E.

That means that with a capo on II - that means A,D, or F#, and with a capo on IV - E, B and Ab.
When occasionally, accompanying a soprano, Bb might be required so capo on III. (Can't remember ever being asked to play in F!)

AFAIK - to get the right pitch you can sing the melody in root, 3rd or 5th.

Obviously YMMV.

[Golffishny]

I used medium strings tuned D-d and capoed at the 2nd fret for awhile on my 000-15. The heavier strings did give me a richer tone and were even a little looser than light strings at E-e tuning. The capo did 2 things for me. It gave me an effective nut width of 1 3/4 and a 12 fret setup. You have to try it to see if you like it. It got me to try other 12 fret guitars.