#46
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Great illustration of your process. Thanks!
When I have reached the photo limit, I just create a second post. |
#47
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It'll take all of five minutes...
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#48
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Quote:
Second post woulda been a better idea for sure... |
#49
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I know and it's funny how some things just become ingrained into a system when there is such an easier and obvious way of making it better Thanks for posting the photo's.
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#50
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There's no real right or wrong to much of guitar building, just pros/cons and preferences. Doesn't stop us from debating endlessly though...
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#51
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Had a few queries about this so I thought I'd add it to the thread so it's all one place...
The inserts are driven about 1/16" past the surface of the neck. Then, before gluing on the FB, all but the edges of the joint are relieved, so only the edges of the joint touch the sides. This helps you stay sane while final fitting the neck. |
#52
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Newbie hacker
Thanks for sharing your journey Halcyon/Tinker. I'm a newbie, and "hack" at my guitars from time to time. Done some dove-tail to bolt-on conversions in the past, and your post was really educational. My projects are conversions; and so, they are way less-involved than your build, but I hope you don't mind me chiming in here.
Space and tool availability is limited at best for me; and I've had to find alternative methods of alignment. My projects are masking taped down the center of the sound board top with center lines that go all the way down the dove tail cavity. The neck is also taped and marked clearly with center lines. Then a small clear plastic sheet is cut into the shape of the neck's joint, and marked with center lines... The plastic jig made from the neck block is then placed into the dove-tail neck housing in the body and aligned accordingly. Measurements are taken to determine optimal bolt placements. Drilled as needed. Neck heel attachment bolts/inserts are 6M while the neck block bolts/inserts are 4M. The through holes are drilled with a drill-bit that is 1mm larger in diameter allowing some play. The plastic jig is used to drill holes in both the neck block and heel as well as the body's neck housing. When carefully aligned, the jig works perfectly. I've used it to do a 4-point bolt-on conversion like this one; The neck will not budge at all, and in this particular case, no adhesives are needed. A neck reset is merely a question of loosening bolts. Again, I'm just a hack, but I've used this method on 3 conversions; and so far, everything is holding up very well. At the stage your build is at, this is probably meaningless information, but for what it's worth... |
#53
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That little insert jig block is genius! That solves about 10 problems I have with inserts every time I use them...
For your first guitar... I would do a bolt on. It's one less thing that you have to get exactly right for the guitar to work well. It also makes slight neck angle adjustments much easier in the future... And there is a high probability that you will need future neck angle adjustments on your #1 guitar. If you want to do a dovetail - then go right ahead. There are plenty of folks who do.... Thanks |