#1
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What grain direction of neck block?
I´m not sure what grain direction the neck block of the guitar I´m building should have.
My Martins show horizontal direction except my J12-15 which seems to have a multi layer block. The Lowden of a friend of mine has a vertical grain block. Not easy to decide...
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Thanks! Martin D28 (1973) 12-string cutaway ...finished ;-) Hoyer 12-string (1965) Yamaha FG-340 (1970) Yamaha FG-512 (ca. 1980) D.Maurer 8-string baritone (2013-2014) and 4 electric axes |
#2
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But anything could happen... Look at this injured guitar that came into my workshop. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=3&theater
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#3
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Horizontal grain is prefered, vertical grain has the top and back glued to endgrain. Laminated is getting more popular.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al |
#4
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Vertical will have much more strength but horizontal will glue better to the body (as already stated). So, like everything "it depends". For a bolt-on neck, you definitely want vertical. For a dovetail or mortise and tenon joint I think it is a toss-up.
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Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240 |
#5
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Not really end-grain, but side-grain. A very different thing. Braces for all soundboards and backs are glued on side-grain [edit: correct typo / brain fart] with the grain lines running "vertical" (perpendicular to the gluing plane).
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia Last edited by Ned Milburn; 09-12-2013 at 04:32 PM. Reason: Typo revision |
#6
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I like to have the flat sawn face glued to the sides and the end grain on the left and right sides of the block. The top and bottom of the block reveal the annular rings. A vertical grain block such that the annular rings are on the top and bottom of the block is no fun to plane when fitting the back (or top if you glue the back on first)
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#7
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fleta used to use small mortise and tenon'd caps onto his blocks to keep end grain away from the plates. a little more work but i find that it goes by pretty easy and looks cool. works well on the tailblock but is a bit more involved if you do it on a neck block with a fretboard extension. Last edited by arie; 09-12-2013 at 02:29 PM. |
#8
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edit: arie posted while I was typing, what I'm calling side grain is the same as face grain or edge grain in his sketch. We agree on end grain.
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Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al Last edited by Rodger Knox; 09-12-2013 at 02:25 PM. |
#9
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Neck blocks should have the grain running the same way as the sides.
Tom
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#10
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Ned: When I build necks I use a 5/16" dowel through the length of the heel, covered by the heel cap. That would have prevented what happened to the classical patient on your operating table. Quite often I put smaller dowels in tail and heel blocks themselves. And of course Baltic birch works for tail blocks.
Tom
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#11
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#12
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hey murray, what is the name of the piece i'm talking about? it's used on furniture carcasses -the m/t caps on the end grain?
Last edited by arie; 09-12-2013 at 04:19 PM. |
#13
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__________________
---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#14
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Interesting idea to use the dowel. Thanks for sharing that one.
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---- Ned Milburn NSDCC Master Artisan Dartmouth, Nova Scotia |
#15
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The only way to avoid any end grain gluing is to run the grain in the same direction as the sides... though I'm not sure that the top and backs need be a consideration. I was however taught (if I understood him correctly) that you are less likely to develop a hump forming from a drop in RH if you run the grain in the same direction as the sides.
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