#16
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Thank you, Larry, that's very kind.
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#17
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If it were me, my guitar, and my money, I'd be bringing it back and tell the guy who performed unauthorized work that now the guitar is buzzing. Make them either fix it or, better yet, get a full refund so you can bring it to the "real deal" (Charles, that is).
Jim
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1980 Guild D50 (Westerly), Antique Sunburst 2010 Epiphone Masterbilt AJ500RE 2010 Taylor GS Mini 2011 Taylor 814ce 2015 Taylor 356ce (12 string) 1975 Carlo Robelli SG Custom (Sam Ash model) Fishman Loudbox Mini VOX AGA70 Last edited by stratokatsu; 04-06-2013 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Cleaned up questionable language |
#18
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Yes, I do. The truss rod is there to keep the neck straight. String height is determined by the nut & saddle.
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Dan Carey (not Crary) A couple of guitars A Merida DG16 Classical Guitar A couple of banjos A Yueqin A Mountain Dulcimer that I built A Hammered Dulcimer that I'm currently building And a fiddle that I built! Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. |
#19
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I guess that was more concise than my convoluted responses!
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Larry Pattis on Spotify and Pandora LarryPattis.com American Guitar Masters 100 Greatest Acoustic Guitarists Steel-string guitars by Rebecca Urlacher and Simon Fay Classical guitars by Anders Sterner |
#20
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Or, to be pedantically more accurate ... the truss rod is there to control and adjust the straightness of the neck as required ...
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#21
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Quote:
Yes it is. And after a pro setup, when seasonal changes set in (which we in the middle of the US with severe winters experience), a tweak of the truss rod (1/8-1/4 turn) will re-straighten it. |
#22
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BINGO! Yes, I routinely have to tweak a +/- 1/8 turn due to seasonal changes here in New England. Thankfully, the R/H in my home remains fairly constant thanks to steam heat in the Winter!
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Dan Carey (not Crary) A couple of guitars A Merida DG16 Classical Guitar A couple of banjos A Yueqin A Mountain Dulcimer that I built A Hammered Dulcimer that I'm currently building And a fiddle that I built! Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. |
#23
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DON'T Shim the Saddle with an Anthem!!!
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After talking with Brian, the tech at Baggs, he said the problem was more than likely that there was a shim under the saddle... between the Element and the saddle is the worst way to go, but having a shim under the Element doesn't work well, either. Had a new saddle cut and installed and the pick-up's response evened out perfectly and it sounds great now! So, that's my first point - get that shim out of there! (And you will probably need a new saddle cut for it...) Secondly, the Element UST is enclosed in a slightly "squishy" braided covering; I found that, within a few months, the UST will settle and even out a bit... I don't know if it's just getting more well-seated in the saddle slot or what... Your guitar should not buzz at all, not in my opinion, whether tuned down or not. I truly dislike hearing any buzzing on my guitars, and I have the action set slightly higher than many might prefer, for that very reason. Sometimes I like to play more firmly, and I like having that option without the buzzing that a severely low action might give. The truss rod adjustment is really just to adjust the 'set" of the neck, either flat or slightly forward-set; it really is not intended to be used as a way to "adjust" the action of the guitar. Sometimes, one can use it that way, but it's a stop-gap procedure, at best... the truss rod adjustment is also the most frequent "tweak" I have to make on any of my guitars, as the neck set will change due to humidity, seasons, temperatures and the like... whereas a good setup can last me several years or more! The saddle height is primary in adjusting the action, with the depth of the nut slots secondary (unless the nut is way out of whack) - it sounds like you need to communicate your wishes to that guitar tech, so he can give you what you want... or else find someone else to do the work, although it seems this would fall under a "warranty" issue with the work already finished. Learning how to communicate exactly what I want in the action of my guitars has been an ongoing process for me... you might get lucky and find a technician who "just happens" to set up your guitar the way you prefer, but I have found that painting a definitive picture for them helps get the job done correctly for my preferences. Good luck! Let us know what happens! Tell your tech about not using shims with the Anthems... play on........................................> John Seth Sherman
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"He's one of those who knows that life is just a leap of faith. Spread your arms and hold your breath, always trust your cape..." "The Cape" (Guy Clark/Jim Janowsky/Susanna Clark) |
#24
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such people are and should be avoided at all costs...they think their opinion is gold and feel you should be honored to have them make undesired changes to your instrument...been there, done that, worn the same shirt you are now wearing...and just who says this person is such a great luthier? words are easily said, but actions (like you are experiencing) speak the loudest...
Last edited by rlouie; 04-06-2013 at 05:20 PM. Reason: swearing |
#25
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Truss rod adjustments/changes will affect the action. They are not done TO affect the action.
The nut is out of play as soon as you fret a note on that string. If you are getting buzz only on fretted notes, changing the saddle height wont do anything for that. WHY, after putting shims under it, would he then FILE the slots to lower the saddle????? Certainly NO ONE is that stupid. Why would he cause himself a bunch more work instead of just pulling a shim out??? Makes NO sense. Could the OP go ahead and tell us what the hack's reasoning behind filing slots in the shimmed saddle was please? Not much of what this hack did..or how it was explained makes much sense. Put an UST AND shims under the saddle? Creating more buzz? The nut was too high but strings still buzzed so he recut slots in the nut instead of removing a shim...and he didnt raise the action AT THE SADDLE to cure the buzz? The saddle that was one height, shortened to accomidate the UST...TOO much , then shimmed..but not enough...WHAT? I better go back and re-read the OP. Couldnt have been an UST. With shims? Couldn't have deepened the nutslots. With shims under it? Yeah..I clearly am misunderstanding the OP. Time for a re-read obviously.
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GONE!! 2006 Stonebridge G24SR Sitka/EIR Cutaway JJB SBT 2012 Halcyon AJ Adi/EIR 25" scale Fishman Infinity 2012 Halcyon OOO Lutz/Quilted SA Hog 12fret 25"scale JJB SBT 2019 Halcyon SJ Cutaway Lutz/Flame walnut JJB SBT Several PRS electric guitars and good old tube amps. |
#26
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Quote:
So you use the truss-rod to adjust neck relief, not as a primary tool to adjust action. Quote:
Of course.
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Larry Pattis on Spotify and Pandora LarryPattis.com American Guitar Masters 100 Greatest Acoustic Guitarists Steel-string guitars by Rebecca Urlacher and Simon Fay Classical guitars by Anders Sterner |
#27
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I'm going to check out some of Mr. Tauber's suggestions for local luthiers for sure. Thanks for that, Sir! @jseth - Thanks for your input regarding the Anthem. How has your experience been with this set up? I like the overall sound but I'm having trouble with the brightness and handling noise. I've tried adjusting the settings with the dial and the tiny screw, but to no avail. I wonder how much the installation affects this kind of thing. And I'll definitely ask my new luthier about his/her personal experience installing the Anthem. @Everyone - so even though I'm going to turn this over to a pro, what's the final conclusion here? I've been seeing mixed information. If fret buzz occurs when fretting a string, changing the nuts height won't have any effect, correct? However, I've seen people here say that saddle height won't have any effect either. I've also read here people on both sides (apparently) of the adjusting the truss rod fence, some saying you should only aim to have it perfectly straight and then adjust other things (like what?), while some seem to indicate that a slight up-bow adjustment would help remove buzz. |
#28
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You use the truss-rod to get correct relief...not necessarily "perfectly straight"...oftentimes (depending on the player, technique, strings, etc.) this means a slight forward bow.
After that, you make changes to saddle and/or nut height. The "final conclusion" (IMO) is that no one on the internet can diagnose what, exactly, is happening with your guitar, and with the failed set-up. Only by having the instrument in-hand and on-the-bench can any tech/repair-person (qualified, hopefully) bring your instrument to proper-playability for you and your technique. The mixed information you are perceiving relates to the mixed amount of knowledge folks have within any diverse group.
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Larry Pattis on Spotify and Pandora LarryPattis.com American Guitar Masters 100 Greatest Acoustic Guitarists Steel-string guitars by Rebecca Urlacher and Simon Fay Classical guitars by Anders Sterner |
#29
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Exactly!! Actually, let's get it right, he put TWO shims under the nut.
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Experienced guitar tech and singer/guitarist based in the midlands, England. McIlroy AJ50 Yamaha CPX-1200 Yamaha CPX-700/12 Yamaha LS16 Yamaha FG-300 Yamaha FG-580 Vox V2000-DR + electric guitars.. |
#30
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When I set up a guitar, I'll set the relief of the neck first, THEN adjust the saddle and finally the nut. I've fixed a a few guitars where it seemed the previous tech would change a saddle or nut and set the action WITHOUT checking the neck relief first; then when the neck is properly adjusted the saddle or nut ends up being too low and shims are used.
If the first four frets are buzzing it's possible that the neck is either too straight or maybe even slight upbow. If so, the saddle will have to be set higher to eliminate buzzing. Then if you drop tune, the neck will straighten out or backbow more (due to the decreased tension) and it will buzz more. |