#1
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String Tension, Long & Short Scale
I play a short scale (24.9") guitar with 130 lb silk & steel strings and the setup works well for my aged hands. But if I moved to a long scale guitar (25.4"?) and used the same strings, how much would I have to detune in order to get the same tension/feel of the strings as I had on the short scale? Are we talking half a step or more or less than that. If I bought the long scale I would like to have it set up so that properly detuned and using a capo I could have the equivalent if possible of my short scale guitar in terms of string tension and feel. Your thoughts please.
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#2
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The difference in scale length would increase tension to 135lb. Tuning down just a semi-tone would reduce tension by 15lb, so would overcompensate quite a lot.
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#3
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Wow! As much as that. I realise that my strings are rated as 130 Ibs on a regular long scale guitar so are perhaps about 125 Ibs on my short scale. To get a similar tension/feel on a long scale guitar I should go then for strings rated 125 Ibs? Am I thinking this through properly?
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#4
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It’s such a small difference that other factors such as neck profile and width, a small difference in set-up could affect playability more than this tension difference. You might not even notice it...
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#5
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Quote:
David |
#6
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Why?
What are you trying to accomplish by going to a longer scale? |
#7
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Thanks for your thoughts. What am I trying to accomplish by going to a longer scale? It's a question of my limited budget and not being able to find a short scale guitar with the bridge string spacing and nut width that I would like. It's not an ideal situation.
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#8
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What spacings do you want and what spacings can you find? There might be some remedies depending on how large is the discrepancy.
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#9
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Coupla points - a "long scale" would be over 25.5" -and the only one I ever had was 26.5"
25.4 & 25.5" scales are more commonly regarded as standard scale as you would find on a dreadnought. Smaller scales vary from 24.5 , 24.875, and 24.9" Archtops tend to be 25" Obviously dreadnoughts are std scale and really require medium gauge strings to work properly. Original 000 are also std scale (14 fretters shorter for some reason) both probably best with light gauge. 00 and smaller are short scale with lights. If you really want to determine string tension, I find this one is the best: https://www.mcdonaldstrings.com/stringxxiii.html
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Silly Moustache, Just an old Limey acoustic guitarist, Dobrolist, mandolier and singer. I'm here to try to help and advise and I offer one to one lessons/meetings/mentoring via Zoom! |
#10
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I'm learning to flatpick and fingerpick guitar to accompany songs. I've played and studied traditional noter/drone mountain dulcimer for many years. And I used to play dobro in a bluegrass band. |
#11
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Let's not forget that not all dreads, or guitars in general, are created equal, and what may sound and feel great on one guitar may well not work as well with another. For example, I tried mediums on a very lightly built SCGC Tony Rice as an experiment and it sounded terrible; the top was strangled. There is no rule that stipulates mediums are required on dreads other than personal preference.
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Faith Mars FRMG Faith Neptune FKN Epiphone Masterbilt Texan Last edited by AndrewG; 03-07-2021 at 05:43 AM. |
#12
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Grew up playing electric. 12 is a light B string to me. Played in a live band setting all my life. when playing acoustic. I found a too heavy a string would cause me finger fatigue. And when I'd switch back to electric, I'd be worn out. I went to .011's and things got better. So now, 30 years later, 011's are my go to. I like them the best on my Gibson 24-3/4 scale. I can tell the stiffness get greater even in my Martin 000-15 at 24.9" And my Dean 25.5". and Guild 25-9/16" even more so.
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