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#1
06-30-2018, 12:07 PM
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fret layout
Is there a difference in fret layout between a classical guitar and a flamingo guitar? I have one of each here and the layout goes different by about the fifth fret . . . I'm believing the one is a goof but not sure . . .
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#2
06-30-2018, 12:25 PM
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Standard, long, or short, scale lengths vary for every type of guitar I've come across.
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#3
06-30-2018, 06:40 PM
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fret layout
oh . . . so does that mean I can use either one as long as my bridge is positioned correctly? I have an old 60's goya that is in sad shape due to drying out etc. except for the neck . . . anyway I can copy the saddle distance on the old Goya and use it on a better body . . . right?
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#4
06-30-2018, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
The kind of work you are discussing is sophisticated and should be left to a luthier. I do not mean to offend, but your questions indicate that you might not be well-suited to complete the job successfully. Hope this helps.
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#5
07-01-2018, 03:08 AM
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fret layout
I understand. . . I am a retired homebuilder/finish carpenter with a large well tooled shop and a lot of time on my hands
 . . . so I already learned something here . . . one more question. Where can I find the particulars for a 640 mm short scale? Been playing guitars since the hippie days but at 75 my left hand is a bit hard to spread very far. . . . thank you
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#6
07-01-2018, 04:05 AM
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If you can do a spread sheet you can make your own fretboard design for any string length.
You divide the string length by 17.82. This gives the distance from the nut to the first fret. Subtract that from the original string length, divide that by 17.82 to get the position of the second fret and so on again and again until you have enough frets. If you have it correct the 12th fret will be exactly half the original string length from the bridge. Actually the devisor that is most accurate on my spreadsheet is 17.817153745 but that level of accuracy is not critical. Anyway, the measurements above will give you the fret positions. The saddle position requires something called 'compensation'. When you fret a string you stretch it, ever so slightly, and you raise the pitch, To compensate for this you move the saddle away from the nut by two or three millimeters. On steel strung guitars the bass strings need more compensation than the treble strings and you get the slanted saddle. But on a nylon string guitar the compensation is the same and the saddle is square to the strings. If you put nylon string compensation into a search engine you will get lots of good reading including this http://www.liutaiomottola.com/formulae/compensation.htm good luck.
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#8
07-01-2018, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Fazool "The wand chooses the wizard, Mr. Potter" Taylor GC7, GA3-12, SB2-C, SB2-Cp...... Ibanez AVC-11MHx , AC-240
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#9
07-01-2018, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
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#10
07-04-2018, 06:26 AM
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There are many fret calculators on the interweb, I often use the Stew-Mac one and print it out. I use a 12" dial caliper to lay out the frets, I measure the first 11 frets from the nut slot, then do the rest measuring from the 11th fret, so that cumulative errors are reduced to a minimum. I mark the fret with a very sharp knife, then score with the knife and a small machinists square, then cut with a fret saw guided by the machinist's square. Tedious, hand cramps galore, but works. If you decide to build a guitar, you can do it. Understanding wood and knowing how to do accurate work puts you a step ahead. I personally am a crap finish carpenter, but I love making guitars...
__________________
Brian Evans Around 15 archtops, electrics, resonators, a lap steel, a uke, a mandolin, some I made, some I bought, some kinda showed up and wouldn't leave. Tatamagouche Nova Scotia.
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#11
07-10-2018, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Acoustic or electric? Last edited by cmajor9; 07-10-2018 at 06:46 AM.
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