Neck Radius for Silvertone Crest 253 1940 Archtop

[bobkelleyil]

Does anyone know the neck radius for a Silvertone Archtop--Model Crest 253 1940? I don't have any gauges and I am looking for a replacement bridge. Also, does anyone know where I can find a low profile (~0.5") bridge fro the same archtop?

[Howard Emerson]

Originally Posted by bobkelleyil

Does anyone know the neck radius for a Silvertone Archtop--Model Crest 253 1940? I don't have any gauges and I am looking for a replacement bridge. Also, does anyone know where I can find a low profile (~0.5") bridge fro the same archtop?

Bob,
Are you saying it's 1/2" give or take, total thickness, or just the top part, or the bottom part?

If it's total, the guitar needs a neck set.

The Crest was made for a very short period of time, and if you look at bunch of closeups, it's clear that the bridges were never fitted correctly to begin with, so.......

Here's a vintage bridge for sale that appears to fit the basic timeline according to the description:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1940s-Silve...ss!11746!US!-1

If you know how to fit a bridge to an archtop already, then IGNORE THE REST OF MY POST, but if not.......

If you do get it: First and foremost is just basically stringing the guitar up and have the bridge basically in position to get the lay of the land. If it's too high when lowered all the way down, it might yet work, or it might not. Judge how much would have to be removed from the base, and in slotting the top for the strings & setting the radius.

Once you know that stuff, it might be serviceable. If it's too low, is there enough vertical adjustment to get where you want it?

Then fit it to the top of the guitar, and then do your string slots, etc.

Best of luck in any case!

Howard Emerson

[bobkelleyil]

Yeah. Longterm it does need a neck reset, but I was trying to make it playable before I put more money/effort into it. Another than the neck it is in pretty good shape.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-Silver...MAAOSwXoJcfBxP

But it has what I think is an octave mandolin low profile bridge that looks something like this

https://reverb.com/item/2208982-new-...rc=aw.ds&pla=1

I wanted to carve this bridge and put the proper radius on it the short term, But again I was trying not to have to buy a bunch of luthier tools to get there.

[Howard Emerson]

Originally Posted by bobkelleyil

Yeah. Longterm it does need a neck reset, but I was trying to make it playable before I put more money/effort into it. Another than the neck it is in pretty good shape.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-Silver...MAAOSwXoJcfBxP

But it has what I think is an octave mandolin low profile bridge that looks something like this

https://reverb.com/item/2208982-new-...rc=aw.ds&pla=1

I wanted to carve this bridge and put the proper radius on it the short term, But again I was trying not to have to buy a bunch of luthier tools to get there.

Bob,
The bridge link you posted from The Mandolin Bros (RIP Stan Jay), is for a mandolin and it will not have enough width for a guitar.

If you have even basic shop tools, you're more than ready. All you need is a short piece of wood of your choice, either maple, mahogany, or any hardwood.

You could even buy a generic archtop bridge like this:https://www.amazon.com/DISENS-Compen...%2C131&sr=8-51

Then use only the TOP section, and fit it to the curvature of the top. Yes, I know it'll have two notches underneath, but so what? In terms of 'tools'? All you need is some 80 grit sandpaper to lay on top of the guitar GRIT SIDE UP!

Then start rubbing the bridge section across, f hole to f hole, until the curve fits the top.

Then use a small file to make your string notches. If the action is close you can make the notches deeper or less deep, and when you're happy with the radius you can just sand away any 'extra' wood where the notches are very deep.

It'll work, it's cheap, and you can't play the guitar until you get a bridge on it, right?

HE

[MC5C]

I never make an archtop bridge based on a pre-determined radius. I always start with a flattish top, set the outer string heights based on 1/16" high E action and 3/32" low E, and smoothly vary the increments between the two. After the slot heights are all set, then I take off from the top to set the slot depths for around 1/2" string diameter.