Restringing your Guitar

[pheumiller]

Restringing your Guitar - Great video from Martin - never a bad idea to freshen up on the basics however there's some good additional info here for any level player - got any additional tips and tricks to share?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIzVdvzn8d8

[redir]

I do many things similar to this video and a few things different. One thing I like to see is that they remove all the strings when changing. I've had so many customers complain about this technique, maybe this video will help with the misinformation that removing all strings will blow up your guitar.

I personally find the locking technique unnecessary. In fact I'd like to charge customers $50 more who tie them in knots!!! That technique is not so bad but still IMO not necessary.

I like to pull the whole length of the string along the proper side of the sound post tight and then wrap it up a few turns depending on the string - two turns from low E to about five turns on low E, and then push the string end through the post hole and pull tight. Then use the winder to tighten.

Works for me...

Oh yeah and make sure the machine's are tight too, always check the nuts on the machines.

That was pretty impressive how he tuned all the strings by ear based on the A.

[ouimetnick]

No need to tie on the strings. Just sticking the string in the hole like Taylor does, and your set. I can't stand strings with knots, etc.. a major PITA to remove.

[Ned Milburn]

I am on the same side as Redir when he states that the technique is unnecessary and can cause frustration when changing strings of client guitars.

Here is my method:

- Pin all strings.
- Cut all strings (about 1 to 1.5 tuner post distances long for bass strings, to 2 to 2.5 distances for trebles, with adjustments depending upon whether tuner posts are close or far apart).
- Bend 4mm or so of the end of the string to greater than 90 degrees with small pliers.
- Place in tuner post hole, wrap the slack by hand (always downwards towards the headstock to avoid loss of break angle over nut), then wind the rest with the tuner key using your choice (hand-wind or string winder)
- Tune, stretch strings, retune.
- Play.

This method that I learned from John LaRocque (Ring Music - Toronto) keeps the headstock looking clean, avoids overlapping wraps, and avoids string ends poking out. (Poking-out string ends are a hazard to fingers when cleaning the headstock with strings on, and non-cut string ends are hazards. A friend of mine, during a performance I watched, left his string ends like a Medusa, and an unfortunate lady singing with him got her ear-drum pierced as they moved on stage.)

[charles Tauber]

Ned,

What do you do for nylon strings to prevent slippage at the head?

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Ned,

What do you do for nylon strings to prevent slippage at the head?

I used to have a neater method when I was a performer, but that was 15 years ago and I've forgotten. ;-) But I did meticulously melt a knob onto each end of the string to help avoid slipping especially useful for the tie block with Savarez and other small diameter non-wrapped nylon strings. I still melt string ends for Savarez nowadays.

My present method is such that after tying the string at the tie-block, I pull it taught or near taught through the tuner roller hole then reverse direction, wrap 3 times, and hold the loose end as I tighten the string. I cut after the string is at tension. Still neat, but not quite as pretty.

My string of preference is Savarez Alliance which have a smaller diameter than D'Addario or other standard strings, so for the thinner strings (D, B, High E) I wrap the string through the tuner hole alternating directions 2 times (or 3 times sometimes for the E).

I have a hand-made set of Graf tuners (Jorg Graf, Oscar's brother as you likely know). He (and Sloane tuners) includes a metal sleeve inside the tuner roller string hole. I was thinking there must be a way to create a simple mechanism that tightens on the string as it is pulled to tension. (It would have to be one-way, meaning the string could only be fed from one side of the hole when re-stringing.) This would eliminate the fuss and time in tying strings on the tuner rollers. In my mind, I can even imagine a retro-fit that could be added to standard tuner rollers. Once I work it out, maybe I should be off to Dragon's Den. Haha!!

[charles Tauber]

Thanks, Ned.

For comparison, I use Martin's "lock" on nylon strings and have found it to be easy and reliable.

I guess I've lived under a rock, but I didn't know about Graf tuners. (Oscar Graf has long been one of my favourite guitar makers.) Stunning tuning pegs. His website doesn't list prices, but perhaps that's where I'll get my next set of machines.

On my guitar, I have an ancient set of Schaller Hauser model. They do not have a cross-inserted tube in the string hole. As the nylon rollers shrink, the nylon rollers can loosen on the metal shaft causing the nylon to rotate on the metal shaft. This causes the string hole in the shaft and the string hole in the nylon roller to misalign, locking the string in the hole. (It takes a set of pliers to realign them and remove the string.) Perhaps, building on that design flaw might be a way of achieving a locking classical tuning peg. I can, conceptually, think of several ways of making that happen in a controllable way. Let me chew on it some.

[Ned Milburn]

Originally Posted by charles Tauber

Thanks, Ned.

For comparison, I use Martin's "lock" on nylon strings and have found it to be easy and reliable.

I guess I've lived under a rock, but I didn't know about Graf tuners. (Oscar Graf has long been one of my favourite guitar makers.) Stunning tuning pegs. His website doesn't list prices, but perhaps that's where I'll get my next set of machines.

On my guitar, I have an ancient set of Schaller Hauser model. They do not have a cross-inserted tube in the string hole. As the nylon rollers shrink, the nylon rollers can loosen on the metal shaft causing the nylon to rotate on the metal shaft. This causes the string hole in the shaft and the string hole in the nylon roller to misalign, locking the string in the hole. (It takes a set of pliers to realign them and remove the string.) Perhaps, building on that design flaw might be a way of achieving a locking classical tuning peg. I can, conceptually, think of several ways of making that happen in a controllable way. Let me chew on it some.

The newer Schaller Hauser model's just have a one piece plastic roller. They are my tuner of choice for under 100 dollars because the worm-gear holders are not held to the base plate with rivet style holders. (Sorry for lack of better terminology, but I expect you get my drift.)

Jorg's tuners are not by any means inexpensive. I'll email you a copy of his price list. But I'm sure he'd be glad to talk to you directly, too. And yes, I too have seen/played a few O.Graf guitars and he makes instruments of fine quality.

[charles Tauber]

Originally Posted by HCG Canada

The newer Schaller Hauser model's just have a one piece plastic roller. They are my tuner of choice for under 100 dollars because the worm-gear holders are not held to the base plate with rivet style holders. (Sorry for lack of better terminology, but I expect you get my drift.)

At the time I bought them, before the days of "boutique" tuning machine makers, they were one of the only, if not only, make that had real mop buttons. They weren't cheap, well over $100 at the time, in the 1980's. Last I looked, Schaller doesn't offer them with mop buttons anymore. Big difference in appearance between mother of pearl and mother of plastic. Doesn't change their function, though, just aesthetics.

I'll email you a copy of his price list.

Thank you.


Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread.

[redir]

For nylon/classical guitars I still don't tie a knot. What I do is start the wind on one side of the string that exits the hole and then when it comes around on that first wind I cross it to the other side and finish off the winding in that direction. I think in any case if you have a good number of wraps you won't get slipping. I think people like to tie knots because it makes it easier to start the winding but if you just maintain tension it works fine.