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  #16  
Old 12-10-2020, 06:29 PM
MarkinLA MarkinLA is offline
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The strings which come with Cordoba C10s, which I play, are Savarez Crystal Corum HT..
I've owned my C10 probably 6-7 years and have tried other strings than what they recommend..Today I have had D'add J46 HT on her for about a week now and can definitely say:
1) They seem to get in tune and remain so sooner than the Savs, which I really like.. But,
2) The bass is definitely a tad thuddier, less deep than the Savs, as if they just don't drive the top as strongly as Savs... But,
3) I heard the Sav D strings don't last as long as D'adds' D and don't remain in tune as well as the D'adds...
Higher action will normally yield louder volume..But, of course is tougher on the left (fretting) hand especially for achieving better velocity or holding grande barres a long time such as with the Sor etude #19 in Bb...
Right now I'm happy with the D'add in-tune longevity..But so far I miss the Savarez 'bigness'..
Maybe the poli finish or the truss rod influence these outcomes, too..
When these D'adds do wear out I likely will go back to the Savs, making sure I tie them well and make a final call on it, paying strict attention to all the pos variances.
At this point in time I can safely say the C10 does sound best with Savs..(but is subject to change without notice !)..
~ If your LH hand hurts all the time it is time for lower action..and accepting lower volume as a way to stay in the game...
Perhaps a crossover is the answer where an amplifier can give you the volume and tone you seek..
One final suggestion is to get a really good strong hand exerciser. Playing string and certain other instruments does require strong hands and arms. M

Last edited by MarkinLA; 12-10-2020 at 06:41 PM.
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  #17  
Old 12-11-2020, 04:07 PM
RyanR RyanR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkinLA View Post
The strings which come with Cordoba C10s, which I play, are Savarez Crystal Corum HT..
I've owned my C10 probably 6-7 years and have tried other strings than what they recommend..Today I have had D'add J46 HT on her for about a week now and can definitely say:
1) They seem to get in tune and remain so sooner than the Savs, which I really like.. But,
2) The bass is definitely a tad thuddier, less deep than the Savs, as if they just don't drive the top as strongly as Savs... But,
3) I heard the Sav D strings don't last as long as D'adds' D and don't remain in tune as well as the D'adds...
Higher action will normally yield louder volume..But, of course is tougher on the left (fretting) hand especially for achieving better velocity or holding grande barres a long time such as with the Sor etude #19 in Bb...
Right now I'm happy with the D'add in-tune longevity..But so far I miss the Savarez 'bigness'..
Maybe the poli finish or the truss rod influence these outcomes, too..
When these D'adds do wear out I likely will go back to the Savs, making sure I tie them well and make a final call on it, paying strict attention to all the pos variances.
At this point in time I can safely say the C10 does sound best with Savs..(but is subject to change without notice !)..
~ If your LH hand hurts all the time it is time for lower action..and accepting lower volume as a way to stay in the game...
Perhaps a crossover is the answer where an amplifier can give you the volume and tone you seek..
One final suggestion is to get a really good strong hand exerciser. Playing string and certain other instruments does require strong hands and arms. M
MarkinLA

Thanks for your comments. Actually my hands don't get tired so that is not the issue. And the tone is quite good on this guitar. The overall volume is fine too so an amp is not the answer.

The only problem really is one of balance, most especially with the Low E vs the other strings. Strings might fix this but it may be a technique thing too. Finally it might just be "the way it is" and I'll live with it!
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  #18  
Old 12-11-2020, 05:15 PM
Carey Carey is offline
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> The only problem really is one of balance, most especially with the Low E vs the other strings. Strings might fix this but it may be a technique thing too.

I can't know exactly how you're hearing it overall, but one thing is that the
normal-sized guitar can't really support the fundamental of the low E string:
it's simply not big enough to do that, and if you make it bigger, other issues
come into play. I've only played/owned one CG that had a really satisfying
low E string- powerful and articulate- but the A string was (very unusually)
weak, and its D string was even 'stringier' than usual. My imperfect solution
has been to counterintuitively use a *low* tension E and go for the overtones
(the ones I like to hear in that range sound more w/lower tension: think harpsichord v grand piano) and flab, which can fool the ear somewhat.. YMMV.

Adding: playing rest strokes w/ the thumb to better define the bass lines
helps quite a bit , too.

Last edited by Carey; 12-11-2020 at 05:23 PM.
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  #19  
Old 12-11-2020, 06:27 PM
MarkinLA MarkinLA is offline
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Carey, I beg to differ on your statement about 'normal guitars can't handle the low E fundamental'..
The problem is more-the-time where you are sitting..and in what kind of chamber, or if you're out doors, that greatly affects the box's undertones as well as overtones..
In the right environment and of course with the right guitar, the profound depth we'd like to hear and feel from an open low E will be right there in full bloom and force/all the CPSs !
I just got through concluding how my Cordoba C10 seems at this time to have a better low E from the intended strings it comes with, Savarez Corums, than the D'Adds I just put on for a change of pace, and to see if they do infact outlast the Savs as I've heard. And tho the jury is still out on my conclusion it's leaning toward the Sav low E to be the winner..It can at times be as full as its equivalent E on a Steinway Grand and is why C10s and up have developed a reputation for having deep bass (along with most else being quite nice.)..The D'adds are not too bad, I'd have to say..They're just different..They feel stiffer, say..

But leave it at this, Carey. 'Taint worth all the work to argue it out...
We enjoy what we can from this wonderfully quirky gadget called the guitar...
M
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  #20  
Old 12-15-2020, 02:56 AM
Bax Burgess Bax Burgess is offline
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How evenly is the saddle sitting in the slot? Sharp edges along the saddle's footprint? Is the floor of the bridge slot scooped or divotted? This combination will compromise bass response.
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  #21  
Old 12-15-2020, 12:27 PM
RyanR RyanR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carey View Post
> The only problem really is one of balance, most especially with the Low E vs the other strings. Strings might fix this but it may be a technique thing too.

I can't know exactly how you're hearing it overall, but one thing is that the
normal-sized guitar can't really support the fundamental of the low E string:
it's simply not big enough to do that, and if you make it bigger, other issues
come into play. I've only played/owned one CG that had a really satisfying
low E string- powerful and articulate- but the A string was (very unusually)
weak, and its D string was even 'stringier' than usual. My imperfect solution
has been to counterintuitively use a *low* tension E and go for the overtones
(the ones I like to hear in that range sound more w/lower tension: think harpsichord v grand piano) and flab, which can fool the ear somewhat.. YMMV.

Adding: playing rest strokes w/ the thumb to better define the bass lines
helps quite a bit , too.
Nice points Carey, thanks. Might try thumb rest strokes.
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  #22  
Old 12-16-2020, 12:44 PM
Carey Carey is offline
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You're welcome, Ryan. The rest stroke really helps on the low E string, in my opinion, getting the string to move in toward the soundboard rather than parallel to it. Also, the damping of the string you land on can often be
helpful, to keep things from sounding muddy..
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