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  #1  
Old 01-28-2022, 02:21 PM
Maicobmw Maicobmw is offline
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Default 1965 Martin 00-18 vs 2012 Custom Shop 00-18, Opinions?

I am considering adding a Martin 00-18 to the herd, either an original condition '65 in excellent crack free condition with a recent neck reset for $2900, or a light wear 2012 Custom Shop model for $3300. I am unable to play either in advance. I'd appreciate any general opinions or advice concerning pluses and minuses, notable tone differences to be expected, etc. The difference in nut widths is not a factor for me. Both are returnable. Thanks!
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Old 01-28-2022, 02:45 PM
mcduffnw mcduffnw is offline
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The vintage 00-18 will have...if it is a "good" one...that really nice firm, fundamental but sweet tone that 60's Martin's are known for.

The CS 00-18, even if they were totally going for a vintage tone, is going to be a more complex overtone/harmonic rich sound than the 60's model, and will likely have a bit more sustain as well.

So it really comes down to which sound/tone you think you would prefer.


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Old 01-28-2022, 03:20 PM
sinistral sinistral is offline
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Since they are both returnable, if you can swing it, I would order both and keep the one you prefer. What about the CS one is custom? At a minimum, I’d be curious to try the 1965 model just to hear how a 45+ year old 00-18 sounds. I would expect a 2012 to sound very similar to a current model (taking into account the natural variation from one guitar to another).
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Old 01-28-2022, 03:25 PM
Osage Osage is offline
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1965 is the last year before Martin started messing with the classic post-war formula that they had been using since 1949. Every guitar is different but it has a high probability of being quite nice. I would personally choose the 1965 over a custom shop every time.
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Old 01-28-2022, 03:56 PM
pagedr pagedr is offline
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If both are returnable, I'd order both and send back the one you least prefer. But if you don't want to go that route, I'd opt for the '65. I'm sure the CS is nice but you can't beat the sound of a guitar that's aged and been played for 50+ years.
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Old 01-28-2022, 04:24 PM
soma5 soma5 is offline
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There is individual variation in all guitars. On the face of it, the older guitar should be better. In the real world, you can't necessarily count on that. I'd want to play them both first. Guitars are not appliances.
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Old 01-28-2022, 04:28 PM
Maicobmw Maicobmw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sinistral View Post
What about the CS one is custom?
Golden era bracing & bridge with cut through saddle and tinted top.
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Old 01-28-2022, 05:20 PM
Maicobmw Maicobmw is offline
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Pics of the '65.













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Old 01-28-2022, 08:08 PM
egordon99 egordon99 is offline
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Buy the '65!!!!

I have a 1956 00-18 and it's a great little guitar!
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Old 01-28-2022, 08:12 PM
sinistral sinistral is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maicobmw View Post
Pics of the '65.













You're lucky you’re not left-handed, or you’d be stuck buying the 2012 CS.
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  #11  
Old 01-28-2022, 08:48 PM
Larpy Larpy is offline
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In my experience, the older straight-braced (late '40s into the '70s) small-bodied Martins can have a lovely, sweet "dry" sound. Wonderful for fingerpicking but usually less impressive strummed. What they don't tend to have (there are occasional exceptions) is a big, full sound with lush overtones. When Martin returned to scalloped bracing, the smaller guitars really benefited, at least to my ears.

If you want that dry sound, I think only vintage guitars have it. If you want a lusher, fuller sound, I think the more recent scallop-braced Martins are the way to go.

If you just want a good or great-sounding guitar, you'll have to play both and decide for yourself. Personally, I'd rather own a fabulous '65 than a so-so recent custom shop. But I'd also rather than own a fabulous recent CS than a so-so '65.
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Old 01-28-2022, 08:57 PM
mcduffnw mcduffnw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maicobmw View Post
Pics of the '65.















One thing I noticed, but I can not quite tell for sure from the pictures, is that the bridge appears to have been planed or sanded down fairly flat. This was a super common and popular "quick, fast, cheap, and dirty" lower the action/improve the playability repair on guitars where they needed a proper neck reset but the owner did not want to pay for it, or there was no one qualified to do it anywhere near where they lived.

Now it would not bother me very much as long as the bridge still looks solid, as I would be buying it for the tone, not resale value, but it does give lots of folks the heebie jeebies.

If that is the case, that the bridge as been planed down, it is not necessarily a big deal structurally or tonally, but it will definitely affect resale value and desirability a fair bit.

It is a great looking guitar in the pictures for sure. But be sure to check about the bridge and be sure you are comfortable with it, if it has been altered.


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Old 01-29-2022, 01:22 PM
Maicobmw Maicobmw is offline
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I really appreciate all of the comments and advice. After communicating with the seller (Lovies Guitars), I've decided to give the '65 a shot. They offer a 14 day return period so I'll have plenty of time to play it and look it over to make sure it floats my boat. It was recently gone through and the neck was reset by Repair Zone in San Diego. Hoping for the best.
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  #14  
Old 01-29-2022, 01:25 PM
gmel555 gmel555 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maicobmw View Post
After communicating with the seller (Lovies Guitars), I've decided to give the '65 a shot.....Hoping for the best.
I hope it works out. It looks like a REALLY sweet find if you like the neck and the tone.
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Old 01-31-2022, 11:59 AM
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blindboyjimi blindboyjimi is offline
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I would take the 1965, but 2 1/8” saddle spacing is tough as a fingerpicker. That bridge looks like a replacement and looks oversized. I’d look carefully at the bridge plate.
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