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  #16  
Old 02-03-2020, 07:36 PM
redir redir is offline
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That's a good point and I remember now that years ago I modified my tail block design to be the same way, where it is glued to the top and back it is as thick as the linings. That way when the top is under stress it is more free in all directions. That design mod was a bit more difficult to do since I build off the top.

I had some guitars where you could almost see the entire outline of the shape of the tail block telegraphing through. When the top is changing due to tension and stress or environmental conditions it is restricted from doing so where it is glued down to the blocks so you see it.
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  #17  
Old 02-03-2020, 10:20 PM
printer2 printer2 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles Tauber View Post
Drifting off topic...

How do you orient the grain of your tail block?

The first guitar I made, at Charles Fox's school in the '70's, was made with a tail block of birch plywood. Since then I've been making my own plied tail blocks with offcuts of spruce dulcimer tops. (I made a lot of dulcimers way back when, and had a lot of offcuts.)

I layer and glue a few pieces of spruce with alternating grain direction to a thickness of about 1/2". I've found that to be lightweight, strong and stable and have not experienced any issue with doing that. I have never have a tail block telegraph through a top, provided the block is fit properly - neither too long nor too short.
Parallel to the grain of the sides, although I have been using a ply rather than solid block.
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  #18  
Old 02-04-2020, 10:06 AM
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Drifting off topic...

I was just going to cut some wood for linings and this question had me thinking, what is the best way to have them cut? Do we care about gluing end grain to the side or the top?
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  #19  
Old 02-04-2020, 11:24 AM
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Bruce Sexauer Bruce Sexauer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by printer2 View Post
Drifting off topic...

I was just going to cut some wood for linings and this question had me thinking, what is the best way to have them cut? Do we care about gluing end grain to the side or the top?
I would never glue end grain to anything if I wanted to count on it structurally. When I was doing Schoenberg’s repair many years ago I discovered that another builder was orienting his end-blocks with grain perpendicular to the sides, and Several of those instruments failed catastrophically. Not a surprise, to me.
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  #20  
Old 02-04-2020, 12:33 PM
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Brain fart, what was I thinking? I had some wood with a 45 degree angle of the grain and I was seeing grain lines on both surfaces. Going to have another cup of coffee now, I should be better afterward.
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  #21  
Old 02-04-2020, 03:18 PM
redir redir is offline
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I like to use QS stock for linings, especially for solid bent ones, but even kerfed linings. That way the 'flat sawn' edge is what the top glues too and it's a lot easier to trim with a hand plane.
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  #22  
Old 02-04-2020, 04:25 PM
Naboz Naboz is offline
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I want to thank all of you builders once again, as I have just been realizing I have those dimples in that 'above the end block' area on my recently acquired Eastman dreadnought, and you have answered my mild concern with a calming explanation.
(p.s.- I have a whole house humidifier that hasn't dipped below 40% this Winter, no sharp fret-ends/shrinking fretboard, and no corduroying.)

It is a great resource to have you luthiers contributing so much!
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  #23  
Old 02-04-2020, 05:52 PM
ScaryLarry ScaryLarry is offline
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Interesting information - thanks to all who posted!
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