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#1
12-05-2018, 11:37 AM
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Making binding
I have some holly that I want to cut into bindings and I'm looking for tips.
It seems easy enough to cut strips on the tablesaw, but making an 1/8" kerf to get a .08 binding seems wasteful. Any tricks of the trade? 
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#3
12-05-2018, 11:43 AM
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I use a tabletop bandsaw, mine is a three wheel Craftsman. The kerf is much smaller than 1/8", and it cuts that thickness easily. You can find them used for $100, and they are quite useful.
__________________
Rodger Knox, PE 1917 Martin 0-28 1956 Gibson J-50 et al
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#5
12-05-2018, 12:58 PM
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I resaw a plank on a big Aggie bandsaw, then thickness-sand the leaves to my spec., then cut to height on a three-wheel bandsaw with a very narrow blade.
I also have a micro-table-saw I can use for the operation. It uses .031 blades. As I recall I got that saw dirt cheap at Harbor Freight. 
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#6
12-05-2018, 01:20 PM
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This. .059" kerf.
__________________
"Still a man hears what he wants to hear, and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon
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#7
12-05-2018, 05:25 PM
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Is what it is, many processes are wasteful in building a guitar, from resawing wood for tops / backs and sides to making binding.
Just use what you have and cut as many as you can Steve
__________________
Cole Clark Fat Lady Gretsch Electromatic Martin CEO7 Maton Messiah Taylor 814CE
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#9
12-05-2018, 06:10 PM
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I usually cut off the bindings from the side set before bending, then add purflings and glue them back where they came from.
I use an old fret slotting blade. It smokes, but it cuts, with almost no waste at all.
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#10
12-06-2018, 09:54 PM
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Quote:
Also great for general ripping if it's not too thick a stock; the thin kerf doesn't bind, and with a tablesaw's horsepower it cuts through like butter with very little noise, which equals very little vibration very smooth cuts...
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#11
12-06-2018, 09:56 PM
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I think the question is, where does one find holly that's clear enough for the length needed for binding! Everything locally looks great, until there's a knot...
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#12
12-06-2018, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
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#13
12-07-2018, 11:14 AM
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My experience with holly in boatbuilding is that it quite unstable and prone to twisting and warping. May not be too bad for binding, but being able to cut a 32 or 64 inch length might be difficult.
Ed
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#14
12-07-2018, 01:01 PM
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I use a razor knife. I will resaw off a QS veneer of what ever wood I am using and finish it to 1/8in thick. Then clamp it down on a work board with a long straight edge. Then with a fresh blade on the knife score a line along the edge and go deeper and deeper till it pops off. Usually takes 5 or 6 swipes.
Pretty much zero waste with that method.
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#15
12-08-2018, 08:20 PM
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Holly gets blue sap stain very fast when cut in the summer; you must dry it fast. I cut down a 4"-5" section about 18" long this spring for making a red, white, black, block to cut and sandwich between veneers. Cut into 3x16"x 1/2" sections and microwaved. dried it over two days but still got a gray stain. Might still use it but not what I was hoping for. In Atlanta I have only found holly veneer, no 1/4 or 4/4 to cut up. Buy veneer don't cut that up. Holly and blood wood go great with black dyed veneer. I found plenty of 4/4 blood wood but no veneer. I cut blood wood into 1/16"-1/4"strips off the side of board. Over half goes to sawdust. Blood wood is Very hard. White can be maple.
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