How do I fix the bridge bow in the top of my guitar?

[Peter17]

I notice that the bridge was badly pulling forwards on the guitar. I have removed the bridge and sanded it dead flat and square etc ready to re install.
But the top of the guitar is all messed up. The back of where the bridge was has pulled upwards and the front has dug down into the top of the guitar.

How do I remove this? Looking on youtube they show people using heated blocks of metal which are clamped on both sides of the timber. This softens the original glue on the bridge plate, then as it cools it re glues it back into the correct position.

Question 1: I can get a couple bits of steel or aluminium from work to use to clamp it. But I think that the bought ones have a concave and a convex surface..........

Question 2: Should I remove the original bridge plate and install a new one that is a little larger in size so the the surface area is greater?

Question 3: Can I use steam from the kettle to soften up the outer side of the guitar?

Question 4: I don't think that this is the original bridge that was on this guitar. There are three bits of timber, the bridge and then the two bits left and right of the bridge. It is not one piece like on other guitars. Does this matter. I mean one long bit of timber would hold down better as a bridge as opposed to this smaller piece. Do the two other bits of timber do anything to the guitar other than looks.

Question 5: Also the top is warped under the pickguard. How do I fix that area up?

[IMG][/IMG]

[mirwa]

Oh my.

The bridge should be one piece, the one bridge piece extends over the traditional x bracing on steel strings guitars, this ties the bridge to the top to the x brace.

On classical guitars it’s not as important as the rotational force on the top is far less.

To get a top flat again, it’s about steaming the wood soft and clamping it into the desired position, example we steam and clamp the surface flat to end up with a flat top, well as much as possible when it’s been stretched badly.

Steve

[Peter17]

Yes that would make sense having the guitar bridge span across to reach the position of where the cross bracing is.

I did hold the guitar over the spout of the boiling kettle twice for about ten seconds. Since doing that and removing the bridge parts, the bulge where the bridge goes has actually subsided a bit.

[ChrisN]

You can buy a spendy Thompson Belly Reducer from Stewmac and try it yourself using the video below, or have a luthier do it for you at unknown cost, but this looks like the right way to fix it:

[fazool]

Why is your bridge sawed into three pieces?

[Rodger Knox]

Originally Posted by fazool

Why is your bridge sawed into three pieces?

That's a DIY conversion to a pinless bridge would be my guess. Maybe a conversion to nylon in response to the belly? What's your guess, Steve? It's probably better than mine.
edit: nevermind, there's no pin holes in the top.

[Ned Milburn]

Guessing it is not a multi-thousand dollar guitar. If this is the case, just get a new proper bridge put on it and don't worry about the rest. Putting a new bridge on properly will flatten the area to a degree, and it is normal for guitars to develop warps. Different amounts of warping can vary based upon guitar bracing differences.

To Steve's comment above... It matters just as much on a classical guitar to have the bridge in one piece and not 3... The force of the strings, AND the vibrational energy must be transferred across the side-to-side length of the bridge for proper structural longevity and sonic energy distribution.

[Peter17]

Yeah thanks Ned,, I think I will have a go at making a new bridge for it that it the one single piece.

Is this guitar ladder braced?

[Zigeuner]

Originally Posted by Todd Yates

Is this guitar ladder braced?

That's a good question. I'd bet that it is ladder braced. It would be important to take a look inside to see if there is a bridge plate. It's obvious that there's not much holding the area underneath the bridge.

If there is a bridgeplate, it ought to come out. Then I would steam the top in that area and clamp it flat for a few days, followed by a new bridgeplate and bridge. JMO YMMV.

[Peter17]

Yes I think that it's ladder braced.. There are about three sticks going across left to right, and then there is an A frame from the sound hole to the back of the guitar.

That hump at the bridge is now only about 40% of what it was.

[bostosh]

Just saw this thread,
Is that a standard Dread shape needing a soundboard ?
I am seeking old guitars with problem soundboards needing replacement.
Thanks,