Removing The Neck On Old Yamahas

[CTGull]

I don't know why people keep spreading the rumor of Yamaha epoxying necks. I've removed 6 from vintage (1970-74) FG's. They were all built with hide glue. There's no mistaking it once it's apart. The problem is the neck pocket isn't under the 15th fret, it's offset about 1/8". And they didn't just put a dab on the dovetail, they glued EVERYTHING! Including the face of the heel to the sides of the guitar. And the joint is very tight.

I've detailed all the tools and steps required. If you're interested send me a PM.

[redir]

Originally Posted by CTGull

I don't know why people keep spreading the rumor of Yamaha epoxying necks. I've removed 6 from vintage (1970-74) FG's. They were all built with hide glue. There's no mistaking it once it's apart. The problem is the neck pocket isn't under the 15th fret, it's offset about 1/8". And they didn't just put a dab on the dovetail, they glued EVERYTHING! Including the face of the heel to the sides of the guitar. And the joint is very tight.

I've detailed all the tools and steps required. If you're interested send me a PM.

That's why I was gonna ask the OP first, how old, and second, what model. Those are hide glue models but after a certain time I believe it's Asian Mystery Glue. If I'm not mistaken the ones made before '81 used HHG but after that AMG.

[CTGull]

Originally Posted by redir

That's why I was gonna ask the OP first, how old, and second, what model. Those are hide glue models but after a certain time I believe it's Asian Mystery Glue. If I'm not mistaken the ones made before '81 used HHG but after that AMG.

That's the one.

I don't have any 1981 or later models. They overbuilt them and put on a heavy finish. The couple I've tried were dead in comparison to the early models. It would be an interesting comparison. There's an early 80's SJ-180 for $100 not too far from me, but I don't feel like wasting the money since I had once before and wasn't impressed.

[redir]

Yup there was something a bit more special with the older ones. The ones with the truss access at the peghead are all pre '81 so that's a good tip for buyers. According to that very detailed website he explains that they used real tonewood ply's for the tops and backs and that's probably what made up the difference.

I just turned away a neck reset on a newer 12-string FG. It's just not worth the cost. It sucks to just throw stuff away but then someone might like it for slide guitar or just do a quick and dirty DIY reset.

[drplayer]

Originally Posted by CTGull

I don't know why people keep spreading the rumor of Yamaha epoxying necks. I've removed 6 from vintage (1970-74) FG's. They were all built with hide glue. There's no mistaking it once it's apart. The problem is the neck pocket isn't under the 15th fret, it's offset about 1/8". And they didn't just put a dab on the dovetail, they glued EVERYTHING! Including the face of the heel to the sides of the guitar. And the joint is very tight.

I've detailed all the tools and steps required. If you're interested send me a PM.

I completely agree with CTGull. I just recently got my 1970 Yamaha FG-140 back from a neck reset, and according to my luthier/guitar-repairman (who is remarkable BTW), it was a bit stubborn, but nothing too difficult at all. I purchased the guitar for next to nothing and really liked how it sounded, so it was worth it to me to have the work done. All-in, I'm probably at less than $600, which in addition to the neck reset--which includes a new saddle and set-up--also includes new Golden Era 3-on-a-plate replica tuners, fretwork, & a new nut. I've had many guitars, and this one sounds/plays better than some I've had costing 4X as much as I have in this old Yammie. When they're good, they are REALLY good!

[fazool]

Originally Posted by CTGull

I don't know why people keep spreading the rumor of Yamaha epoxying necks. ....

The images are blurry but



There was absolutely a period in Yamaha's mid-70's history where they proudly used ultra strong adhesive that wasn't hide glue.

[redir]

Hey Fazool are those images or pdf's online somewhere that they can be read better?

[John Arnold]

Last year, I reset a Nippon red label FG-180 that had the stubborn glue. My technique on any guitar that is resistant to steaming is to remove all or part of the fingerboard, which allows the joint to be accessed for drilling with a long 1/16" bit. When three or four holes are drilled on each flank of the dovetail, the joint will come apart. After it is apart, I resurface the drilled areas with a chisel and a sanding block and use thicker shims to reassemble. On a partial fingerboard removal, I like to cut it above the body junction...usually at the 12th fret on a 14 fret neck. That is what was done on the 180.
That is a fine guitar. Yamaha used spruce on all top laminations, while most Asian makers would use some lesser wood like lauan for the center lamination. That, plus the fact that Yamaha used smaller bracing to compensate for the extra cross-grain stiffness of laminated wood, is why they sound so good.

[fazool]

Originally Posted by redir

Hey Fazool are those images or pdf's online somewhere that they can be read better?

I had a 1977 FG 512 and have that doc somewhere

[mirwa]

Originally Posted by John Arnold

On a partial fingerboard removal, I like to cut it above the body junction...usually at the 12th fret on a 14 fret neck. That is what was done on the 180.

We all do things differently, that’s one thing I have noticed on forums. Does not mean right or wrong.

For guitars that incorporate what I call a short neck block like the yamaha fg180, I remove the whole neck with fretboard attached, if I had to break the board for any reason, then a whole new fretboard is fitted.

The fretboard on a short neck block is an integral structural part. Cutting the fretboard at the 12th removes that side strength for the neck at the join.

Steve